help needed to wire rangemaster booster to non true bypass

Started by bobster, May 13, 2011, 07:39:46 AM

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bobster

hi folks-
i have a rangemaster style pedal i built and it has true bypass DPDT switch and anti pop resistors etc.
at present on the dpdt switch it has two lugs tied together , two middle lugs come from input and outut jacks and two other lugs have input and output caps going to circuit and output 10k pot.
just as an experiment id like to wire it with an old wah switch i have which only has three contacts on it. i would be leaving the pedal on all the time so no need for pop resistors etc this time.
can anyone help me on how to change the wiring to suit this 3 lug switch , im a bit confusst as to how to go with this!
thanks
bob

alparent

First of all. Is the power turned on or off by one of the jacks? (effect wont turn on if no jack connected)
If so and you want the effect to be on all the time........you don't even need a switch.
Or you can use your SPDT switch to turn the power on or off (so you wont need to unplug the jacks to turn it off)

But can I ask why you want to do this? Is the DPDT switch defective?

I don't have time now (I'm at work)

But I'll help more when I get home (if nobody helped you before that, witch they probably will!)

bobster

hey , thanks for replying and no hurry for explaining later !
i have what i think is the input jack style with the facility to not drain the battery when not in use
cheers - bob

alparent


bobster

hi alain,
yes , my switch is wired exactly like the one at the top left of the link you sent to me
bob


darron

Do you mean that you'd like a buffered bypass like a Boss pedal or do you want a vintage style tone-suck switch? Sounds like a stupid question but my first thought was for a vintage switch.

I don't think a rangemaster will like buffering at the front, it expects the guitar there. Buffeting at the back is okay I think.


Google the millennium bypass circuit - Geofex. On my phone right now.
Blood, Sweat & Flux. Pedals made with lasers and real wires!

Brossman

Gear: Epi Les Paul (archtop) w/ 490R in the neck, and SD '59N in the bridge; Silvertone 1484 w/ a WGS G15C

Still a tubey noobie. Been doing this a while, and still can't figure much out, smh.

bobster

hey ,
well believe it or not i want the tone suck old style 3 lug switch.
my thinking is that i have a jen wah which i changed to true bypass with resistor adjustment for dip in gain
it sucked
changed it back to normal
it rocked!
so , i have my rangemaster [which of course is a different circuit to a wah etc ] but im intrigued by the fact that the original RM pedals were not true bypass and have such a good rep.
mine sounds great with the true bypas but i cant help wondering if there might be a little extra magic with the old style switch!
can anyone help?
btw i built it on tag board to RG Keens spec on his generously given austin treble blaster article on the web
thanks
bob

darron

like i said.. you can make it tone-suck style non-true bypass by just tying the input of the board to always be connected to the input of the jack... you can use the existing switch.... you can even add a switch to the switch to go back to true bypass (:

it won't effect the tone while the effect is engaged. it sounds like maybe you are expecting it to?
Blood, Sweat & Flux. Pedals made with lasers and real wires!

bobster

hey thanks-
i hadnt thought of that! i can probably use one half of the dpdt switch to do this.
as you say i am expecting [ or hoping ] that this will make some kind of subtle difference to the sound as it did do with my wah but you may be right too in that it wont make any difference when effect is engaged
will report back if any extra mojo apears !
b