True Bypass Switch Problem.

Started by nascarbean_97, August 02, 2011, 07:17:55 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

nascarbean_97

So, I wired up a true bypass switch today, and I went to test it and it worked great, but then I tried to switch it to what would be nothing/noise and nothing happened.
Has anybody experienced anything like this?

darron

I don't QUITE understand

"nothing/noise" sounds a bit contradictory.


so, in the "off"/"bypass" mode is it working or is it the "effect on" mode when it is not working?



is it for a circuit that you made or are you adapting a circuit that was previously not true bypass? the circuit was working before you changed it?


every now and then i get a bumb switch, but hopefully it's just a little wiring hiccup along the way...


more info please :)
Blood, Sweat & Flux. Pedals made with lasers and real wires!

nascarbean_97

It's for a pedal I'm building, but I've not connected it to the effect's circuit yet.
I have nothing attached to the "effect in" and "effect out" prongs, But the guitar's signal still passes through when it should be switched on to those prongs.

darron

i thought that might be what you meant too.

that's right, while the switch is not in bypass mode the signal shouldn't be able to get from the input jack to the out.

so i guess the switch sounds identical whichever throw you have it on? just clean signal on both clicks?



i suppose you can only recheck the wiring. follow the signal and find where you've bridged the connection.


not that it really matters, but which layout for true bypass are you copying?

silly question, but it's for a simple problem so we need to ask silly questions, is the switch in sideways? wired correctly?

is it a 3PDT or DPDT?


my favourite layout is at the bottom right of this page: http://www.dazatronyx.com/support/what-is-true-bypass/
Blood, Sweat & Flux. Pedals made with lasers and real wires!

nascarbean_97

Dpdt.

Yep, identical on both clicks.  :-\

I'll just check and see whats up I guess.

nascarbean_97

Question: Are the ground prongs of the jack supposed to be connected by a wire? or do they have to be connected in some crazy other way?
Just trying to narrow it down...

darron

all grounds hook together. this is the DC socket as well at the PCB and the audio jacks.

THOUGH... if you have the jacks mounted firmly to the enclosure then they will connect themselves through the alauminium enclosure anyway. it's up to you if you want to double up on this. pros and cons both ways....



is it just me, or is the diagram for the bottom-right 3PDT wired completely sideways? very missleading... certainly won't work... but that's OT

i assume nascarbean_97  that you're using either the top-left or top-right layout, both are identical...
Blood, Sweat & Flux. Pedals made with lasers and real wires!

nascarbean_97

Yeah using those, could've pointed that out...

So, I've octuple-checked everything, and it doesnt work. Theres no pop/break when the switch engages either, which leads me to believe that the switch is faulty.

darron

might be another silly question....


it's not by chance a momentary (MO) switch, is it? as in when you press it, it's designed to only change the throws while you hold it down... i think you'd notice if it was though.


i suppose de-solder it and measure what it's doing with a meter if you suspect it.

should work like this, except sideways as to the way it is in your diagram:

Blood, Sweat & Flux. Pedals made with lasers and real wires!

nascarbean_97

I made sure it wasn't momentary when i got it.

I just tested it and one switched side stays at 1 on the multimeter, and the other at 0.3. Stays no matter what I do. I'm guessing that means its a dud?

darron

is that a low ohms test?

if so 0.3 and 1 can both be considered a connection/short. the first thing the signal does when it hits a distortion pedal is often go through a 1000 ohm resistor with no problem. plus most meteres aren't entirely accurate down that extremely low. what is your meter set on?
Blood, Sweat & Flux. Pedals made with lasers and real wires!

nascarbean_97

#11
It's set on the lowest ohms setting, which is 20.

nascarbean_97

So, I tested both switch sides using alligator clips, and both pass signal on the same switch side/click. Nothing happens when the switch is pressed, its like it's stuck with everything on. So I'm almost sure all hope is lost.
Thanks for all the help anyways though!

Seven64


nascarbean_97

Can't really show a picture, everything got desoldered and resoldered several times during this, and right now each parts just sitting by itself.