Tayda Hook-Up cables

Started by alparent, October 25, 2011, 09:47:13 AM

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alparent

Anybody using Tayda Hook-Up cables?
They have it in 22AWG.....is it heat resistant or will the plastic melt away (the the cable I have  :icon_cry:)

p_wats

Quote from: alparent on October 25, 2011, 09:47:13 AM
Anybody using Tayda Hook-Up cables?
They have it in 22AWG.....is it heat resistant or will the plastic melt away (the the cable I have  :icon_cry:)

The stuff I bought from them is just like any other cable I've used (ie. it will melt away if you heat it up). Works just as well as any other cable though...just don't melt it (but the same goes with hookup wire from most other places).

defaced

Heat resistant would be Teflon, normal stuff is PVC.  As a comment, teflon wire sucks to strip using mechanical strippers.  It's very slippery so it tends to slip either out of your fingers or off of the wire, and it doesn't tear as easily as PVC, so you need a clean cut to remove it easily.  I've heard of thermal strippers being recommended, but not had the opportunity to try myself.  I love teflon wire, but reserve using it for special projects because of it being a pain to strip. 
-Mike

alparent

Quote from: p_wats on October 25, 2011, 10:18:09 AM
...just don't melt it.

How? any tips? every time I solder wire...the insulation melts away!

p_wats

Quote from: alparent on October 25, 2011, 11:47:19 AM
Quote from: p_wats on October 25, 2011, 10:18:09 AM
...just don't melt it.

How? any tips? every time I solder wire...the insulation melts away!

Do you strip enough of the wire to solder the leads? Maybe you're leaving your soldering iron in contact too long? It will definitely happen sometimes, depending on what you're working on...but it should happen every time if you're careful.

Sorry to be vague, but there's not much I can say in terms of concrete tips. Maybe someone else has more advice?

amptramp

Quote from: defaced on October 25, 2011, 10:40:56 AM
Heat resistant would be Teflon, normal stuff is PVC.  As a comment, teflon wire sucks to strip using mechanical strippers.  It's very slippery so it tends to slip either out of your fingers or off of the wire, and it doesn't tear as easily as PVC, so you need a clean cut to remove it easily.  I've heard of thermal strippers being recommended, but not had the opportunity to try myself.  I love teflon wire, but reserve using it for special projects because of it being a pain to strip. 

I can confirm - we used to use thermal strippers for teflon wire in all our military and spacecraft programs.  Teflon was popular because of its high melting point that allows soldering to be done right up to the end of the insulation without burning the insulation or having it shrink back.  Teflon was not approved for use in chassis wiring because it has a tendency to "cold flow", meaning if it went around a metal edge, the edge would slowly cut into the teflon until it shorted the wire.  PVC can take up to 105°C, so it will shrink back during soldering and it is possible to approach this temperature in a closed car in desert conditions - and people do play gigs in deserts.  For use where mechanical strength and good temperature characteristics were required, we used Kynar (same insulation as wire-wrap wire) and Kapton polyimide insulation, but Kapton was stiff and terrible to strip.

alparent

That's what I get .....the shrinking back.
Practice is the best tip I guess?

defaced

If you tin the wire and the joint before you solder the two together, and work fast, you can solder PVC with little/no shrink back.  It's when you loop an untinned wire onto a pot lug (for example) and try to solder the two that you run into issues because of the time it takes to heat everything up and give the solder time to flow properly. 
-Mike

p_wats

Quote from: defaced on October 25, 2011, 12:43:59 PM
If you tin the wire and the joint before you solder the two together, and work fast, you can solder PVC with little/no shrink back.  It's when you loop an untinned wire onto a pot lug (for example) and try to solder the two that you run into issues because of the time it takes to heat everything up and give the solder time to flow properly. 

Well said...

Suicufnoc

My favorite hookup wire is Small Bears pre-tinned stranded stuff.  I think the price is close to Tayda's.  I did pick up some solid core stuff from Tayda to use for breadboard jumpers though.  Works great.
Sticks and stones may break your bones, but words can get you shot

p_wats

The hookup wire at guitarpcb.com is supposed to be great too...I haven't had the chance to try mine yet, but Barry's amazing to deal with.

DavenPaget

Quote from: alparent on October 25, 2011, 09:47:13 AM
Anybody using Tayda Hook-Up cables?
They have it in 22AWG.....is it heat resistant or will the plastic melt away (the the cable I have  :icon_cry:)

There's a price to pay if you don't want the plastic to melt , it will be a FPITA to strip .

Strip more next time , it's not hard , i hardly have my wires melt .
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