An iron-on like PnP (not a decal or etch) allowing me to apply in color?

[kimelopidaer]

Not for the purposes of enclosure etching -
I'd like to apply a 'mask' type design that is just transferred ink, not a decal.
And i'd like to have the option to choose what you could normally print onto a decal.

I understand why color and shading don't work when you are using pnp for etching;
but can i transfer a color image mask to a bare aluminum enclosure or (powder coated) since i don't intend to drop it in FeCl?
Will PnP blue take color? Will the colors transfer properly?

The detailed color images all appear to be some sort of decal that you cut out and adhere in some way.
Thank-you and apologies if i've overlooked something.

K

[markeebee]

To transfer an ink 'mask' you can laser-print an image onto magazine paper or photo paper (remember to print mirror imaged) and then iron that onto an enclosure, the same way that you would iron a mask onto a pcb.  The colours are not very strong, though, and you need to protect the print with clear coat after.

Or.......you could use a t-shirt transfer and iron that on.  Stronger colours, but still need to be protected.

Both the above won't work well on powdercoated enclosures, because the heat from the iron will melt the powdercoat a bit.

Or.......better still, use a waterslide decal.  But I know you don't want to use a decal.

Or.......just print onto adhesive labels and clearcoat them like a mutha.

Or.......just print onto normal paper, laminate it, glue it, and clearcoat.

Or.......print on to adhesive paper and put some plain paper behind it.  Laminate the whole lot and trim it.  The bottom layer of the laminate and the plain paper will fall away, leaving you with an adhesive label with a laminated surface.

Or.......get a vinyl decal printed at somewhere like Diginate.  They're pretty tough and you can usually get away without clearcoating them if you're not too fussy about longevity.

Or.......use a mock-sublimation method like this this stuff.  I've got some of this but I haven't tried it yet.  I heard it was pretty tough, like your sister.

Or......screen print it, but somebody else will have to tell you about that.

Oy, or.......etch it.

[chi_boy]

There is also the Pulsar Pro Fx system, but it is expensive and there is a bit of a learning curve. 

[kimelopidaer]

Thankyou for a slew of suggestions;

I assume the laser jet transfer would need more than a low heat setting on the iron in order to come off in one piece....
and that will muck up the powder coat?

Have you experimented with decal softener? I saw it on SmallBear - supposed to soften the edges of the decal.



K

[markeebee]

Ha, yeah, you need to use the highest heat setting on the iron. And that will make a real mess of your powder coat. I experimented with high temperature paint (like you'd use on a barbecue or car engine) and that didn't stand up to the iron either.

You can brew your own decal softener. It's about a third white vinegar to two-thirds water. it does make the edges of the decal less visible, but you still need to clearcoat afterwards and that makes the edges disappear anyway (if done properly).

BTW, I've found that quick-drying floor varnish makes the best clearcoat. Cheap, dries quick (DURR!) so less waiting around, sands easily, tough as old boots, and a minimum of smelly ecology-threatening chemicals.

[DavenPaget]

Ha, yeah, you need to use the highest heat setting on the iron. And that will make a real mess of your powder coat. I experimented with high temperature paint (like you'd use on a barbecue or car engine) and that didn't stand up to the iron either.

You can brew your own decal softener. It's about a third white vinegar to two-thirds water. it does make the edges of the decal less visible, but you still need to clearcoat afterwards and that makes the edges disappear anyway (if done properly).

BTW, I've found that quick-drying floor varnish makes the best clearcoat. Cheap, dries quick (DURR!) so less waiting around, sands easily, tough as old boots, and a minimum of smelly ecology-threatening chemicals.

I hail you for that POST !  

[Tony Forestiere]

http://www.scalemodelguide.com/guide/hints/using-acrylic-floor-varnish/

This has been used by small scale modelers for years. Tough, inexpensive, self-leveling, and many layers can be built up without clouding. As always, test first.

[DiscoVlad]

I've seen toner transfer done using the backing sheets from labels and a colour laser printer.
Laser/copier transparencies should also work.

These will need to be clear coated, as the toner image is quite fragile, and scratches off easily.

[cab42]

I have tried this a few times with good results

Or.......just print onto normal paper, laminate it, glue it, and clearcoat.

but next time I'll try this

Or.......print on to adhesive paper and put some plain paper behind it.  Laminate the whole lot and trim it.  The bottom layer of the laminate and the plain paper will fall away, leaving you with an adhesive label with a laminated surface.

Thanks

[Pettol]

I make my own rub-ons, like this:

Preparations: obviously the box is sprayed with desired color and then I put a clear coat on (makes it easier to correct mistakes).

The rub-ons:
1.   Use a laserjet to print the reversed labels on a waxy paper. I use decal paper support sheets. The toner does not adhere very well (which is why this works) so don't touch the printout.
2.   Spray the printout lightly with clear coat. I use Montana Gold for this because it dries slowly, which gives me a decent time window for the subsequent transfer. Do not use Montana for the actual clear coat of the box as it has distinctive yellow tone!
3.   When the paint is sticky but not wet, apply the label on the box and rub it lightly with your nail. Remove the paper slowly from one end and if some parts were not transferred correctly, fold the paper back and rub some more.

Finishing: you want to protect your labels with a clear coat. Since the rub-ons will give a bit of structure apply one or two mist coats and let dry before the final clear coat.

I have found some versions of this on using super77 (from 3M) and hairspray (!). I believe using clear coats is a bit better (and cheaper). I also recommend spraying the labels, not the box. It makes the transfer easier. And if you don't find the right time (in terms of "stickiness") the first time you can just throw the label away.

(Yes, I've posted this before. I'm repeating myself. I'm getting old)

[cab42]

I came to think of this tutorial by FrequencyCentral for using inkjet transparency.

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=77001.0

Regards

Carsten

[kimelopidaer]

All the suggestions...terrific !
Initially posted because i was hoping to avoid the sticker edge -
realized i could make a thin line border at the edge of the decal and cut along that line to minimize -
that's all from me on the subject until i've actually completed one.


thankyou everyone.
K