the little chemical that would'nt

[PRR]

> honestly it was 2 mm thick !

That's 10X or 50X thicker than any solvent-based paint is made to be.

If you must have such thick coats, you need catalyst finish. Two parts stay wet forever or until mixed. when mixed they set-up in an hour no matter how thick.

For 2mm clear-coat to turn old boat hatches into dining tables we used to use surfboard resin. Nasty stuff, and it sure will kill moths, but once cured you can dance on it.

[petey twofinger]

 yes i am still struggling with this paint job .

so built this thing today , with shrimp (my kid). we had a great work day , she is such a great helper  ! anyway , this super low tech contraption is like a mini-paint-dfrying booth , runs around 90 degrees , keeps paint free from moths , dust , ash's , beer , etc .


the old toaster oven ran too hot , i am shooting for 90 degrees

1- http://img848.imageshack.us/img848/2015/40478054.jpg

lil box w/handle that i use as a throne while things get painted

2- http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/3260/51092449.jpg

the bottom piece of the thing we made

3- http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/2/49740802.jpg

putting the top on

4- http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/9906/49886802a.jpg


the whole unit


5- http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/2892/97686260.jpg

inside view

6- http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/6942/34977918.jpg

thru the peep hole

7- http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/168/61844091.jpg

more angles thru the windows

8- http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/4360/32160297.jpg

i garbage picked these cheap speakers years ago , thats what the chassis is .

9- http://img692.imageshack.us/img692/7797/47143282.jpg

cutting plexiglass sucks

91- http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/6365/80789665.jpg

its a 40 watt appliance bulb i did not pay for , but where did i get this thing ? (which dumpster)

92- http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/9566/16956050.jpg

93- http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/7108/43563801.jpg

94- http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/6466/65340466.jpg

cute lil thermometer is prolly only +/- 30 off , at any given moment .

95- http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/1952/68915405.jpg

oh yeah , she dis-assembled the toaster oven and we removed the top broiling burner for more clearance , Clarence . i had slammed a wet chassis into that burner a few times ! ill still use it for higher temp runs .

96- http://img37.imageshack.us/img37/4697/75259872.jpg

i also blew up two amps .... and had some $$ batterys die 

there are two spots on the side of the pedal , when ever i spray the clear coat there it wrinkles up ... not sure , maybe i will prime over it ... i have sanded it off and reshot it many times . this sucks .  i also "blew up" two amps ( dont ask )  .... and had some $$ batterys die

[chromesphere]

I used to use etch primer when i was painting with wet paint.  It seemed to help the paint stick / didnt scratch so easily.  

With regards to the temperature to cure the paint, i used to put a box over the floor ducted heating inside the house and put the enclosures under the box so it would heat up.  Although the method wasnt very good (too much dust obviously, and stinks the house out) that sort of temperature was perfect.  I'm pretty sure i set my toaster oven to 60-70 degrees (celsius) for about 5-10 mins per coat (leave it for 2 hours between light coats / 3 coats total) for wet paints....You dont need crazy hot temps like with powder coating.  "hot day" temperatures are what your after, which is probably what that lamp is giving out?  I originally just left them outside in the afternoon sun.  But thats got its problems too, as we have both found out first hand. There are moths genetically engineered to ruin paint jobs, and they wont rest until they've completed that mission.

Nice box too btw

Paul

[Ripthorn]

When you lay down the clear coat that thick, you are making it almost impossible for the lowest layers to gas off, thus it will stay that nasty, tacky consistency no matter what heat or how long you let it cure.  Patience is the key when using finish, it is not a speed game.  If you need thick, go like PRR said and get some two part catalyzed auto finish or possibly that pourable epoxy stuff (never used it).  However, if you go with the Krylon (which I have actually used on guitar necks, the satin is awesome for curly maple), do light coats, let them gas off well before putting down another.  I never do more than 3 or 4 light coats in a session, then I let it air dry for 24 hours.  Again, it doesn't matter what kind of oven you put it in, you put 2mm of finish down, the solvent bubbles will never get through it.

[petey twofinger]

the box is runningg at 90 degrees now . the toaster oven it seems to fire UP at 120 - 130 so ... what you said makes great sense . gonna just slow down quite a bit here .

i removed everything down to the metal on the sides , re-primed and let that dry for hours , did a first coat of black over night , blkack coat 2 today , but i am letting it sit in the box for an hour , then putting it in the oven for 2  between coats .

for the clear i plan on going light , doing 2 coats a day till i have maybe 4 on it .

i found a mini digi thermometer for 7 bucks at menards , ranges up to 158 degrees . gonna pick that up just because .