Isolate each output on a 1 spot daisy chain

Started by Ibanezsr500, October 23, 2012, 05:24:01 PM

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greaser_au

Quote from: Ronan on October 24, 2012, 06:05:46 AM
Thanks. The 1-Spot is rated for 100VAC to 240VAC input, 50/60Hz, so I guess an international adaptor is the way to go. Thinking about the volume of sales in Australia vs the sales in USA, I guess we are lucky its only $60 vs $20, because they would have had to make up a different case for the Oz market with a population around 7% of the USA.

Well, yes and no... Free-voltage (i.e. 90-250V input) is pretty much standard now & non-compliant devices are in the minority. :)  If you buy any small appliances or adapters from China for world use, it has a rather neat & safe 'universal' slide-in plug fitment and for a couple of dollars you can buy your own plug variant that snaps into it. In a way it's shortsightedness that they didn't use this...


R.G.

As I understand the history, the controllers could not reliably do 90-250 at the time the plastic injection molding dies for the cases were made. So it made sense to have versions of cases which kept the correct socket pins with the right insides for the voltage so they couldn't be used incorrectly for safety reasons. Later the controllers improved.

New plastic injection molding dies are quite expensive. I'm sure  (:icon_biggrin:) that when new dies are needed, this will get a lot of looking at.

Quote from: darron on October 24, 2012, 02:36:05 AM
can i hijack the thread and ask what people would suggest would be a good inductor to use for filtering for such a switching isolator? i'm not too familiar with inductors and how much mh/uH is appropriate.
Without knowing the insides of the switching isolator, it's reduced to guesswork.

Measure or calculate an upper-bounds current draw through the proposed inductor, then make sure the inductors you buy can handle that. Pick a value - these are often in the 10uH to 1mH range. Pick a filter cap to go with it. 100uF to 1000uF is a reasonable choice.

Be aware that you may need to add some resistance in parallel with the cap or inductor to damp the resonance of the L-C. It's entirely possible to pick an L and a C which have a resonant point in an unfortunate place as well as having the desired filtering action. Unfortunately, all of this depends on the current drain and the switching frequency of the isolator.
R.G.

In response to the questions in the forum - PCB Layout for Musical Effects is available from The Book Patch. Search "PCB Layout" and it ought to appear.