Neovibe DC Help.

[tr1p1n]

I'm gonna get right to it, I'm new, no idea what I'm doing. How would I go about wiring up the DC jack for the neovibe? I've read that I could get rid of the 1000uf caps, jumper this and what not but can anybody be real specific? As in dumb it down a few notches and explain this to me. Really hope I don't have to buy new parts or something and then again I really don't want to ruin this thing. Two more questions, would a 24 volt DC 100/ma wall transformer be fine? And would it matter if my DC jack is insulated or not? And if it does how could I insulate it? Any and all help would be very appreciated Thanks!!

[R.G.]

Let me make it really simple.

If:
- you have a 24Vdc/100ma wall wart,
and
-  ==> you never, ever use the wall wart for anything except the neovibe <==
and
- you use a plastic-body ==> not a metal body <== dc jack,

then you can use the wall wart directly into the stock PCB with no modifications at all.

It matters a lot if your input jack is insulated or not. It's a Bad Idea to use a metal body, non-insulated power input jack. It's not a DC input jack, it's a power input jack. The way to insulate it is to buy a plastic-body jack, not a metal body one.

The Neovibe can be built as a first build, but it is awfully ambitious for a beginner, as there are several issues with it that simply have to be done right. You're at least trotting before you can walk, and you can therefore expect the normal results of that - some skinned knees, and an awfully quick set of lessons, taught by Mother Nature.

I note this set of things to set your expectation levels and so you can ride herd on any frustrations you begin to feel, not as any kind of criticism. A man's reach should exceed his grasp - but he should be prepared for the logically-expected results, too. You're about to learn some things quickly.

[tr1p1n]

So this Mouser part # KLDPX-0302-B won't work? I also have a SMD/SMT jack coming but i bought this after the fact i realized what SMD/SMT was, but that one is plastic and if worse came to worse could I use that? Oh and saying i can use it directly into the stock PCB with no modifications means I can keep everything on the board right? Just connect them to pads K and J and ill be alright? And since R.G. your the one answering these questions and i value your opinions/answer's better then anyone on this matter could you also explain how i could put in a status LED? Just for when its powered on. I read something or other about just hooking it up to pad O but ive also seen diagrams with like a resister hooked up to the led. I really don't wanna be a nuisance but your right, it is an ambitious task for a beginner and i need help. Thanks for your time! :]

[R.G.]

So this Mouser part # KLDPX-0302-B won't work?

Sorry - to make that work, you'd need to concoct some way to isolate it from the (presumably metal) enclosure. It can be done, with shoulder washers, insulating board, whatever. But this is one of those complications I mentioned.

This one is much simpler for you: Mouser p/n 163-4302-E   The body is plastic and cannot short to the chassis to give you ground problems.

Oh and saying i can use it directly into the stock PCB with no modifications means I can keep everything on the board right? Just connect them to pads K and J and ill be alright?

Yes. The diodes and filter caps on the PCB will make the correct polarity of DC out of it. The only worry is that your "24vdc" supply may only drop to 24Vdc at full load of 100ma. It might be as much as 28-32V at light load. If the filter caps on your PCB are only 25V, it's chancy. If they're rated at 35V, you're probably fine. Another one of those complexities.

And since R.G. your the one answering these questions and i value your opinions/answer's better then anyone on this matter could you also explain how i could put in a status LED? Just for when its powered on. I read something or other about just hooking it up to pad O but ive also seen diagrams with like a resister hooked up to the led.

Do you mean "the DC power is coming into the unit" or "the footswitch/bypass is making signal go through it"? They're different. Both can be with an LED and a suitable series resistor  (the calculation of the value of which is another of those complexities), but the hookup is different.

[tr1p1n]

Well what about this 163-4302-E? That's the one I originally bought but realized it was SMD. Oh and what if the enclosure was say wood, would it work then? As for the filter caps I purchased 35v caps so hopefully I'm ok And as for that last bit, I've got no idea what your talking about :] I just want to flip the switch on and see a light turn on. And as for finding a suitable resistor, will a 10k resistor work?

[tr1p1n]

Whoops meant to say what about the 163-2641-E.

[tr1p1n]

Anyone have any other advice/opinions/answers? Still trying to see if this power jack Mouser part # KLDPX-0302-B will be fine in a wooden enclosure as opposed to metal. Also I have 163-2641-E that's a SMD power jack, was wondering if i could somehow wire that as opposed to getting grounded out with the metal power jack.

[R.G.]

Oh and what if the enclosure was say wood, would it work then?

Sure. The requirement is that the metal bushing on the jack NOT contact a metal enclosure which is tied to signal ground.

However, I have grown to be apprehensive about setting little traps for myself which I stumble into later when I've forgotten the heat-of-the moment compromises I made trying to get something to work at all. If you put it in a wooden enclosure, it works, and then one day in a couple of years you put it into a metal enclosure, you'll be back here wondering why it quit working. Or I would, anyway. So I try to sidestep those little issues when I first encounter them, and also advise other people to do the same.

But all-wood and no internal metal foil lining to get rid of the RF and fluorescent hum that a non-conductive enclosure can get you would be fine.

And as for that last bit, I've got no idea what your talking about :] I just want to flip the switch on and see a light turn on. And as for finding a suitable resistor, will a 10k resistor work?

Do you want the LED to come on when you plug in/switch on the DC power, and stay on all the time?

Or do you only want the LED to come on when signal is flowing through the effect, not bypassed?

Is it the power switch that turns on the LED, or the footswitch for bypass? Two different switches.

Standard LEDs work with currents under 20ma, and 1-5ma is good for most pedal indicator use. You have 24V or so available on the power supply in this thing. The LED will take a couple of volts to work so you want (24V - 2V)/5ma = 4400 ohms. 4.7K will be fine. 10K will be fine, just a bit dimmer.

[tr1p1n]

Well got my parts Saturday and almost done with I guess "stuffing" the board. Still kinda confused as to the powering, I know you said as long as I don't use it for another pedal no modifications are necessary. Hears the question I have, does it matter what leads or contacts i connect the two wires to on the jack and does it matter which of those two wires connects to K and J? Also with the LED id like it to turn on when I switch on DC power, I have the 10k resistor like I said but now I have a left over 3.3k and 1.2k. Either of those better to use? and still confused as to how I hook it up. I see pictures of a wire coming from O pad and in some cases BCE part to the powerjack/switch thingie it looks like with a resistor soldered to one of the leads on the LED. Oh and if it matters I have a 3 color LED, which would be nice to see them change from power being on to Vibrato/Chorus, But just the power on would be nice. Also I plan on finishing this tonight so testing this thing with wires and what not all over my desk should be fine right?