tailoring the tremulus lune

Started by baklavametal, November 25, 2012, 11:39:27 AM

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baklavametal

HI, long time lurker, first time poster/question asker

i'm planning to build one buti don't need all of the features, and some that i do, i'm not 100% percent sure how to do them

i want only one speed knob (with a fast/slow switch) - can i use a 50k pot and wire a switchable 50k resistor in series with the pot?

next, i want a switch between sine/chop mode, i omit the pot and wire a switchable 500k resistor, right?

and finally i don't understand the spacing pot, what does it do?

thank you very much
cheers


digi2t

Quoteand finally i don't understand the spacing pot, what does it do?

From the 4ms website;

Speed: rate of the effect, from a steady swell, to a rapid fire arm
Symmetry: from ramp-up sawtooth, to triangle, to ramp-down. (pulse width when Smoothness is at square)
Depth: amount of effect from barely a shudder to full tremulation. Can achieve silence to blaring loud squarewave chop
Spacing: loud/quiet "balance" waveshaper... adjusts spacing between volume pulses
Smoothness: blend between full on/off squarewave "chop" to smooth buttery sine-tri-round wave
Gain: overall boost/cut

I have a Stereo Panneur, which is basically two TL's side by side. I LOOOOOOOVE it. One of my best boxes.

Trust me, you want all the features. Build it as is, you won't be disappointed. By reducing the options available to you, you'll be missing out on a lot of subtle "in between" settings that make this a great box.
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asatbluesboy

Dude, the easiest way to go about this is building it the normal way, finding the less useful pots' best compromise levels, unsoldering the pots, measuring the 1-2 and 2-3 resistances and replacing them with appropriately-valued resistors (test as many as you can, if you can't OCD enough about it). As for the speed pot, you can just use a 100K pot and a switchable 10K. Remember that's a "C" pot--or just wire an "A" backwards. And yeah, "Smooth" can be replaced by a switchable 500K.

I'm almost 30, man. I've gotta stop saying "dude".  :-[
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ton.

midwayfair

These are all good suggestions if you already have a Lune board and are looking to simplify. However, I HIGHLY recommend leaving the waveform/smoothness pot in. It's far more useful than you think right now, as there are times when you might want to fine tune the wave after changing the speed.

If you don't already have a PCB, look up CultureJam's "Shoot the Moon," which is a 4-knob version of the Lune with more "standardized" parts values and a simplified LFO. There's a thread on BYOC (http://www.buildyourownclone.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=35775) with the schematic and vero and perfboard layouts. There are also *many* PCBs flying around. It was a very popular DIY project and has had multiple PCB runs (and the Eagle files are open source).

I personally like the sound better than the Trem Lunes I've built, and I *really* like the sound of the Tremulus Lune, so that's saying something. The dry path is a little cleaner sounding. And the LFO is physically and electronically isolated on the PCBs, so you never have to deal with LFO ticking.
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Yazoo

I used a linear 100K pot and as a result it has to be adjusted quite carefully. I've ordered a reverse log pot to replace it. The parts list doesn't specify what type of pots should be used. Does it matter for the other pots? I used all linear.