Infinitphase vero.

Started by digi2t, December 30, 2012, 08:13:14 PM

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digi2t

Here's the vero with the 4/8 stage selector switch;



I've tapped it in as per armdnrdy's recommendation, lifted from the Jet Phaser schematic.

DAMN I CAN'T WAIT FOR MY PARTS TO GET HERE!!!!! :icon_twisted:
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digi2t

Alrighty... an update!

I had to redraw the power board. I goofed on the cap dimensions, and the original draw was too small. Here is the new power board;



Here are the my boards so far. No particular meaning to the color of the jumpers, it's just that we've got miles of telephone wire at work, so why use my good multi-strand;







There's 151 cuts, and 85 jumpers on the main board alone.

Yeah....

OK, back to work.
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armdnrdy

You're not done yet!!!  ;D

Looks good!!
I just designed a new fuzz circuit! It almost sounds a little different than the last fifty fuzz circuits I designed! ;)

Ronan

Looks like power board rev 3 got built ;) nice work, I guess the parts have arrived...

digi2t

Quote from: Ronan on January 14, 2013, 05:36:11 AM
Looks like power board rev 3 got built ;) nice work, I guess the parts have arrived...

Some, not all. Regulators (amoung others) are still MIA. Going to start sorting through my LDR's next, match up 8 of them.
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digi2t

OK, more pics of the populated boards. Main board;









and the power board;



The latest version has the center and range trimmers as pots on the outside, so I might do the same, I'll decide when I get there. There's also an LFO rate mod, that speeds it up for pseudo ring-mod type sounds. Again, a possible addition later.

I have all the pots, and switches, just the enclosure is MIA right now. :icon_evil:
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Ry

COOL!  I started building one of these on perf a decade or so ago.  I got the power supply done and immediately used it for something else.  I always wanted one of these...thanks for reviving this circuit!

haveyouseenhim

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I'm sorry sir, we only have the regular ohms.

Ronan

#28
Yeah, what he said.

I checked the 4/8 stage switching, and after de-confusing myself, I think its correct :) The LED's and LDR's look like a million dollars, nice job, reminiscent of Stonehenge or similar? Yep, definitely looks like some kind of sacred site...

digi2t

Quotereminiscent of Stonehenge or similar

HA! I never thought about that. Thanks for the visual. It was a bit of a pain to get the LDR's just so, because as you had previously pointed out I may need some wiggle room to adjust them. I'm hoping that having sifted through them, and choosing a matched set, will help.

QuoteI checked the 4/8 stage switching, and after de-confusing myself, I think its correct

Yeah, I appreciate you having a look at it as well. It took me several double takes before it looked good to me. Guess I'll know for sure when...

I did add two jumpers though. They're there for the input and output coax shields. They're the two green wires (left side, and bottom of board). I found that it's easier to shield to the board between the board and the switch, and shield to the jacks between them and the switch. That way I don't have any funky connections going on at the switch. This involved adding two more cuts as well.
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digi2t

Quick update...

Loads of ticking going on. Lots of signals jumping around, especially from the LM3914 side of things, it's a real zipper.

Plan B, I'm taking a cue from the Tau Pipe Phaser, and going to replace all the wiring with shielded cable. The cross-talk is just crazy. Just placing a wire in my closed hand makes a difference.

On the other hand, everything seems to work. All the ticking aside, this is one balls to wall phaser. Being able to spike or dip just one section of the sweep, or just reshapethe wave, is just nuts.

I'm hoping the shielded cable does the trick. I hope. :icon_rolleyes:

In the meantime (while I'm waiting for my cable to arrive), I've managed to track down all the IC's for the "Japanese Micro Guitar Synthesizer". Yes, I even found some TA7125P's, although they might be fakes. Won't know till I try them. The Kustom amp fuzz has been cleared off the breadboard.
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Ronan

I know it sounds stupid, but double-check your input socket and output socket grounds, I made that mistake recently, caused lots of noise. (Best to check it with a DMM rather than visually.)

If you get bored waiting for the shielded cable, try running the ground for the four Stonehenge LED's to digital ground instead of analog ground. I think that was the only ground that didn't get seperated in the big digital gnd/analog gnd split that you did early on in the project. You could do a temp mod with a flying ground wire...just a thought, don't really know if it will help much, but worth a try...

Hey, glad you got it running! Huge project, glad you like the sound too!

digi2t

Ahh Ian... I ALWAYS appreciate it's when your eyes chirp in. Effectively, Stonehenge was on the wrong ground. I also found that my 1uF cap was soldered in a row short of the Smooth 3 strip, which gave me no smoothing at all! That fixed, the zippering disappears when you dial in some Smoothing. All that's left is the LFO tick. I'm going over all my grounds again, making sure that Vgnd and VAgnd are all separated.

Sounding better already.

A big fat THANKS!!!
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digi2t

SUCCESS!!!!
Completely tick free!! Fixed my grounds, and the LFO tick was coming from the square wave trimmer, the side that also branches to the rate pot. A 10uF cap from the trimmer to the Vgnd strip, and BINGO!, completely tick free.

No zippering, no tick, just pure unadulterated whacko phasing.

YEAH!! God I'm pumped! I just ran through the house screaming. Scared the crap outta the dog.  :icon_lol:

Video coming... :icon_twisted:
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garcho

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digi2t

Thanks man. Yeah, it's epic! Never thought I would pull it off. Here are some teaser shots, before I do the video tomorrow morning.







The three footswitches from left to right are; Rate doubler, Bypass, 4 or 8 stages.

I had to do the final LDR tweaking in the dark. That's where a DMM with a backlit display pays off. I love my DMM! Just finished scoping it, the waveforms are dialed in, and the sweep is set even. It sounds awesome!
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Ronan

Quote from: digi2t on February 11, 2013, 03:59:51 PM
I just ran through the house screaming. Scared the crap outta the dog.  :icon_lol:

That's great news Dino!!! Well not about scaring the dog, that is funny though. Well done! Fantastic build!

digi2t

Here are the updated vero, and BOM;





The changes are as follows; Addition of C999, a 10uF deticking cap. R328 was relocated, and there's now a fly wire to Vgnd on the solder side of the board. Moved one cut. Here is a clearer shot of the cuts;



The ground fly wire for the LED's is on the underside because I didn't want the wire to tangle with the LDR's. Maybe if I have some time in the future, I'll mod the vero, shift some components around, and eliminate the fly wire. In the meantime, it is what it is.

VR218 is the phase centering trimmer. I decided to put this as an external control. Once I had my center on the scope, I set my pot knob indicator line to noon. I can throw the center off now, creating more havoc. I know that setting the pointer to noon brings me back to center.

Setting the LDR's was a bit tedious, since I had to do this in the dark. Like I mentioned before, a backlit DMM is choice. I set the Range to minimum, the depth to max, CV-mix to STEP, and max out the middle waveform pot. This holds Stonehenge lit, without having to worry about the LFO. I then went around measuring the LDR resistances, nudging them as required, to get an even reading all around. I didn't go batshit crazy on the precision, all within 1K of each other was good enough for me. I think it was Ian that had mentioned leaving some lead on the LDR's, to be able to move them around a bit. A superb call. The way you see them mounted in the pics, I had more than ample "tweakability" on tap to get them to sit just right for Mr. DMM.

Setting the trimmers for the square, triangle, and LM3914 center can be set by eye/ear, though it's tedious, and you have to understand what you're looking for. You can use the 9 LED's of the waveform adjustment pots as a guide. The way the LED's dance around, and listening to an input signal, give you a fairly good idea of what needs to be tweaked how. I initially set mine up freehand, but scoped it last night to tighten things up. If you have a scope, by golly, use it! Freehand is OK. Scoped, it sounds better.

I haven't listed all the pots on the BOM. I decided that I'll compile everything into a pdf instead, and stick the work into my gallery when it's done. In the meantime, use the schematic to inventory the pots.

Without further ado, break out the popcorn, it's video time! I know the video is on the long side, but there's just so much going on with this thing. I've done my best to demo it's capabilities. 

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garcho

#38
beautiful Dino! inspiring

PS nice enclosure!
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Govmnt_Lacky

Can't see the video here at work BUT.....

PCB.... PCB..... PCB.... Gots to be gettin' a PCB layout for this!

YES I KNOW! I should create one myself! But I am terrible at it  :icon_redface:

I'll be waiting  :icon_twisted:
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