Infinitphase vero.

[gcme93]

I have a concern dear sir...

Can you lay off the awesome and incredibly complex projects? 

Can a brother get a simple booster or OD or something? 

Stay thirsty my friend!

I'm looking at this right now;



I've rounded up all the parts, and cleared out the bread board. But, I'm also searching for any gut info on the Schumann PLL, or the Skunq Works Blackbird.

Sooooo... a boosted OD, PWM, octave multiplying/dividing, squarewaver? Sure, no prob. I'm on it. 

Vero layout yes please!

[Ronan]

Dino, I'm so glad it turned out well, huge project, done well. Remarkably well, the photos are really nice to look at.

If its any consolation all but one of the pots on my recent Tau flanger/phaser pcb got wired backwards too! WTF?
The only one I got right was the output volume

[Govmnt_Lacky]

I'm looking at this right now;

Sooooo... a boosted OD, PWM, octave multiplying/dividing, squarewaver? Sure, no prob. I'm on it. 

So what you are saying is that we should be seeing this in the "Hen's Tooth Cafe" this evening? 

[digi2t]

Dino, I'm so glad it turned out well, huge project, done well. Remarkably well, the photos are really nice to look at.

If its any consolation all but one of the pots on my recent Tau flanger/phaser pcb got wired backwards too! WTF?
The only one I got right was the output volume

Thanks Ian. It a shame that there's no hard and fast drawing convention on wiring pots from a schematic, but R.G. post on a related thread a few days ago was on the money. Personally, I'm sure if I had taken more time to think about it, I may have avoided said error.

Speaking of things backwards...

I picked this tidbit out of the manual yesterday;

Locate the very right-most PHASE DEPTH control (you should be able to see the associated LED slowing (read: glowing) very dimly) - experiment with turning this control, and note that it adjusts the depth for all the other PHASE DEPTH controls.

The end most LED on my unit does indeed glow dimly (tough to see in bright light, but it does), except its the LEFT one. Basically, I have the sequence of LED's 1 through 9 backwards vis-a-vis the original. Quite honestly, no big deal, and in the end, I'm happy for the "mistake". When the LED's sweep, it simply means that the high end of the phase sweep in on the right, and the low is on the left, which to my brain is more comfortable to read when looking at the unit. This is opposite of the original unit, which by studying a Youtube video of the original, I know it to be fact now. In the end, it can be left up to the builder which way he/she wishes to run the LED sequence. It doesn't affect the operation of the unit at all.

So what you are saying is that we should be seeing this in the "Hen's Tooth Cafe" this evening? 

Like OMG!!! You are like, suuuuch a task master. Tell you what,
1) The difficult stuff was done yesterday.
2) The impossible, I'm in the process of doing. But for God's sake man,
3) Miracles require 24 hours notice!

[armdnrdy]

In your search for info on the Infinitphase build have you ever come across a trace side photo?

[digi2t]

In your search for info on the Infinitphase build have you ever come across a trace side photo?

Negative. Would have been too nice though. I imagine it would be quite a task to reverse trace the PCB using the schematic, and the top shots from the net. Close inspection of pictures reveals that the LED driver, step pots, and step LED's are a separate board linked by jumpers.

Both boards are double sided.

[armdnrdy]

Thanks for the reply.

Well...at least there are pictures of the top side!

It looks like the original component layout is organized enough to where if one were to layout the parts according to the image, much of the trace side routing should fall into place.

I routed the ADA Final Phase with just the top component layout. It's do able.

Maybe when I get a few projects out of the way, I'll give this a shot!

[digi2t]

You go Larry! You go!!

Pretty sure Greg would bake you up a nice bunt cake for a PCB board. 

[armdnrdy]

Men don't "bake" cakes.....we build them! 

[jimilee]

Men don't "bake" cakes.....we build them! 

+1

[Ronan]

Locate the very right-most PHASE DEPTH control (you should be able to see the associated LED slowing (read: glowing) very dimly) - experiment with turning this control, and note that it adjusts the depth for all the other PHASE DEPTH controls.

The end most LED on my unit does indeed glow dimly (tough to see in bright light, but it does), except its the LEFT one.

Which pin is your left most LED connected to, pin 1 or pin 11 of the LM3914?

Does the pot for your left most LED actually change the depth of all the other depth controls?

I'm doing my head in trying to work that out/understand it. Since the LM3914 is wired in dot mode, that left most LED would only have voltage across it when the sweep is at its lowest, I think, therefore, the effect of the pot would be no greater than any other pot as far as I can see. So, I don't understand, its like a puzzle I am keen to solve   hence the questions...

I do agree though, I would have the low end of the sweep on the left and the high end on the right, seems intuitive to me. Why would they do it back-to-front? Very clever design though.  It's really out there, very unusual/different. The amount of imagination required to even think of doing a phaser like this amazes me.

[digi2t]

Hey Ian,
If you look at my vero, specifically the LED driver board, you'll see that I have the LED wires numbered from 1 to 9. When looking at the unit controls from the outside, wire 1 (pin 1) is on the left most pot on my unit. This is opposite to the original, but like I said before, I like it better this way. It'doesn't affect the operation of the unit. You can either have the wave traveling from left to right, or vice versa, however you wish.

Yes, pot 1 (pin 1) does uniformly affect the depth of all the steps. I added another label to the unit, marking this pot as "CV step Depth".

I've taken another look at the datasheet, so I'll take a nooby shot at maybe understanding how/why this works; Maybe since it's operating in dot mode (like a meter display), the #1 LED has just enough current to keep the LED dimmly lit, but since it's first in the chain, increasing or decreasing the resistance of that pot will either raise or sink the current of all the other controls downstream feeding it's half of U202, and ultimately the LFO. After all, this whole section does control Stonehenge in the end, flashing the four 2x5mm in accordance to how much current (or voltage?) each step pot is allowed to feed the 2N3904 transistor. #1 just raises or sinks the current for all the others. Looking at page 8 of the TI datasheet (showing simplest application), seems to me that playing with #1 current would affect all the others downstream, no?

Anyhow, that's the way I understand it, in my little brain. I would really appreciate it if someone could give me the "brass tacks" on the why and how though. That would be cool, for my own interest. 

And yes.... it's pure genius. Or, insanity. The line is really thin.

[Ronan]

Thanks for that Dino, I think you're definitely on the right track there. The biasing of the power supplies (the zener diodes in the +15V and -15V rails) in relation to ground is also doing something different, as well as feeding the anodes of the diodes from ground. I think I would have to breadboard it to find out exactly whats going on. It is a really cool application of an LM3914, genius or insanity? I would lean towards the former

[digi2t]

Heads up folks...

I had to remove the schematic and user manual from the gallery, and my document. The folks over at Prophesysound are nice enough to make both available to the public via their website. They're at the bottom of this page; http://prophecysound.com/products/infinitphase-mkii . The build document is still available, but without the aforementioned material.

Please refer to their website for the schematic and manual in the future. I wish to thank them as well, for not squelching the DIY spirit. It's mighty slick of them to hand out the schematic like that. They get my 3 thumbs up!

[hangingmonkey]

Hey dino, great job on that build, looks awesome and a major achievement at that.  Im thinking of having a bash at it at some point this year.  Ive seen the pic but the link on your earlier posts dont lead to the build doc, any chance you could re post it?  Also, how important is it to have a scope for doing the trimmers, can it be done by ear?

thanks

[hangingmonkey]

Also, where did you get those handles on the enclosure from.  Are they special ones for purpose or just some generic ones you would use on a chest of drawers?

[digi2t]

Thanks for the compliment.

For the link, I`m at work right now, and I can`t access the gallery from here. If you go to the links at the top of the forum page, click on «Layouts Gallery». This will take you to the gallery. Go down the directory on the right hand side to «Dinos Stuff», and click on that. In that folder, there are two albums, «Veros», and «Information Files». Hunt around in there, and you`ll find all the vero info and build doc. The schematic, and manual, are available at prophecysound.com on their Infinitphase page.

As for needing a scope, it all depends on how fine your hearing is. One of my first builds was the Gristleizer, and when it came time to tune the LFO, I thought I was OK. At some point I decided to treat myself to a USB oscilloscope, and when I hooked it up, I found I was way off. I found that I was somewhat triangle deaf. Lesson: Oscilloscope rules.

The handles are from Home Depot. Drawer handles, brushed aluminium, 3.5 inch centers, if I remember correctly. I think the holes on the flanges are 3.5 inch centers as well. They fit spot on.

I don`t believe anyone has tried the build from my doc, so please feel free to PM me if you don`t understand something, or if what I`ve written is not correct. I`ll make the necessary corrections. After all, what I hear in my head, doesn`t always resonate in someone elses.

[Mark Hammer]

I've largely ignored this circuit, but looking at the schematic, one of the things that stands out is the use of 270k resistors in parallel with the LDRs.  What that suggests is that the unit is capable of a very wide range of sweep, since the LDRs can be pushed to have a VERY low resistance.

What that also gets me to thinking about is whether it makes sense to play around with the values of the (normally) 22k resistors in parallel with the JFETs in a Phase 90.  In theory, increasing them permits for a broader range of potential resistance change, and a wider sweep.  I know the width of sweep can be monkeyed with by varying the value of the 3M3 (sometimes 3M9) resistor coming off the LFO.

I may just play around with this over the next week.  Narrow sweeps are good too, particularly when you want them fast.  But ultra-wide sweeps are a thing of beauty too.  Remember that the P90 was designed as a one-knobber, such that sweep range/width was chosen to be pleasing no matter where you set the speed knob; i.e., a compromise.  Chances are very good there is a lot more width capability in there.

Now back to the Infinitephase, already in progress.

[hangingmonkey]

Thanks for the compliment.

For the link, I`m at work right now, and I can`t access the gallery from here. If you go to the links at the top of the forum page, click on «Layouts Gallery». This will take you to the gallery. Go down the directory on the right hand side to «Dinos Stuff», and click on that. In that folder, there are two albums, «Veros», and «Information Files». Hunt around in there, and you`ll find all the vero info and build doc. The schematic, and manual, are available at prophecysound.com on their Infinitphase page.

As for needing a scope, it all depends on how fine your hearing is. One of my first builds was the Gristleizer, and when it came time to tune the LFO, I thought I was OK. At some point I decided to treat myself to a USB oscilloscope, and when I hooked it up, I found I was way off. I found that I was somewhat triangle deaf. Lesson: Oscilloscope rules.

The handles are from Home Depot. Drawer handles, brushed aluminium, 3.5 inch centers, if I remember correctly. I think the holes on the flanges are 3.5 inch centers as well. They fit spot on.

I don`t believe anyone has tried the build from my doc, so please feel free to PM me if you don`t understand something, or if what I`ve written is not correct. I`ll make the necessary corrections. After all, what I hear in my head, doesn`t always resonate in someone elses.

Thanks for the prompt reply Dino.  Ive started getting the tayda basket ready.  Im sure that you'll get a pm from me somewhere along the way.
Cheers

[digi2t]

Here's the right link for the build doc;

http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=48770

The previously posted link is broken, since I had to update the document.