Infinitphase vero.

[ch1naski]

Internal server error on that link.

[digi2t]

Internal server error on that link.

Really? Oh well, it`s in my «Information Files» folder in the gallery. Use the search function, you`ll find it quick enough.

[armdnrdy]

I think the gallery is down right now.

[hangingmonkey]

Internal server error on that link.

Link works fine for me.  Might be worth trying again

[Lurco]

27MB! might take a while.

[hangingmonkey]

Gosh, it was july when I posted here saying I was going to build this...

Heres my progress so far.  I was delayed as I completely procrastinated the task of doing the 88 jumpers and started building the no name flange instead.  Anyway, back on track and heres what Ive done so far...





I have a few questions, I'll make a list and post them up soon.  Dino, if you have any free time I'd really appreciate if you could help.

[hangingmonkey]

Heres a few questions, hope this makes sense...

1
The stonehenge LEDs, how bright are yours?  I bought mine from bitsbox here in the UK and they are quoted as 65mcds.  Is that enough?

2
The LED driver board, the holes marked 1-9, do they connect to lug 3 of the step pots 1-9 and if so, is pot1 the pot thats the furthest on the right (from looking at the underside of the enclosure?)

3
The second bus wire (i.e. the first bus wire being the one that connects to lug 1 of the step pots), is there a 100k resistor wrapped in heat shrink connecting the centre lug of the step pots to the second bus wire?

4
Does it matter which ground I connect the first bus wire to?

5
Ive never made a pedal running on AC.  Do I still use the same boss 2.1mm jack that we use for 9v pedals.  Im not familiar with the terminology +15v and +15VA and likewise for -15v.  How should I connect these to the jack?  Any chance you could explain or signpost me to some appropriate reading?

6
The LED driver board, at the bottom on either side theres 2 jumpers connecting it to the main board, marked as 2 green dots on either side.  I notice from the pics on your build, theres 2 on either side at the top and only 1 on either side at the bottom.  How come and does it matter?

I would really appreciate it if you could help. (sorry about all the questions!)

edit, Ive just noticed that on page 38 of your document, you have labelled the pot 123 from the back instead of the usual 321, so for the purposes of the above, assume that Im referring to 3 as 1 and vice versa.

[hangingmonkey]

By the way, the decal on the box looks a bit pink/red because I had left it in the garage waiting for the lacquer to dry and was spraying another box with neon orange at the same time... Doh! 

[digi2t]

HOLY SMOKES!!! THAT ENCLOSURE LOOKS SMASHING!!! 

OK, down to brass tacks...

The stonehenge LEDs, how bright are yours?  I bought mine from bitsbox here in the UK and they are quoted as 65mcds.  Is that enough?

These are the ones that I used; http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-x-LED-Red-Diffused-Rectangular-2x5-mm-/400178334045?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:CA:3160

As you can see from the specs stated, they only claim an mcd of 1.5. Yours might be too bright. You might be able to compensate by increasing R328 though, to dim them. Just remember to install the LDR's with some room to move them around. You'll need to fine tune this later.

The LED driver board, the holes marked 1-9, do they connect to lug 3 of the step pots 1-9 and if so, is pot1 the pot thats the furthest on the right (from looking at the underside of the enclosure?)

Good question. Yes they do. I made a mistake when I wired my pots, and I wired #1 to the rightmost pot looking from the bottom. This is backwards, since according to the manual, the CV pot for the steps should be the rightmost. So, if you want it to act as per the manual, #1 wire should connect to the rightmost pot looking from the bottom (lugs facing towards you).

The second bus wire (i.e. the first bus wire being the one that connects to lug 1 of the step pots), is there a 100k resistor wrapped in heat shrink connecting the centre lug of the step pots to the second bus wire?

Correct. Saves on board size, and wiring. It's also indicated in the build doc picture.

Does it matter which ground I connect the first bus wire to?

Every ground connection is important in this project. There are two different ground symbols in this project;

Earth ground;


and Signal ground;


Do not mix the two. The Earth ground is for V voltages, and the Signal ground is for VA voltages. Do not mix V grounds  to VA grounds, V voltages to VA grounds, or VA voltages to V grounds. Looking at the main board, V ground bus is on the upper right, and VA ground bus is on the lower right. The bus wire your asking about here should connect to the V ground. If you do mix grounds, you risk introducing noise into your audio path.

Look at the gutshot pictures of my completed build, you'll see that I use the V and VA GROUND strips of the vero to connect ground wires.

Pages 2, 3, 4, and 5 of the schematic, all indicate which ground belongs to V or VA power. Look at page 2 of the schematic, and look at the small section showing C202, and C203. You'll see that they are fed from the V output of the power supply, and Earth ground is indicated in the middle. Be sure to look over the schematic thoroughly, and note what's powering or grounding what.

Ive never made a pedal running on AC.  Do I still use the same boss 2.1mm jack that we use for 9v pedals.  Im not familiar with the terminology +15v and +15VA and likewise for -15v.  How should I connect these to the jack?  Any chance you could explain or signpost me to some appropriate reading?

The 2.1mm jack works fine. AC has no polarity, so how you connect the AC wires to the power supply board doesn't matter. DO NOT USE A DC POWER SUPPLY TO POWER THER UNIT! THE POWER SUPPLY SHOULD PROVIDE 16VAC, 750mA. AC voltage powers the power supply board, and it converts the AC to DC. As for the VA, and V voltages, please consult the schematic. These are DC voltages, created by the two voltage regulators (remember, AC in, DC out). Referencing to Ground (in the middle), one regulator provides positive voltage, and the other, negative voltage. You'll see that the VA voltages are tapped before the diodes D107 / D108, and the V voltages after. Again, make sure to go through the schematic, and ensure that you know which is going where. The vero has been laid out to respect this.

The LED driver board, at the bottom on either side theres 2 jumpers connecting it to the main board, marked as 2 green dots on either side.  I notice from the pics on your build, theres 2 on either side at the top and only 1 on either side at the bottom.  How come and does it matter?

Makes no difference on the bottom. I got lazy, and went with only one set of ground jumpers. If you decide to do the same, make sure to use the lowest holes. Otherwise, the LED driver board will not have a ground. The upper green jumpers were originally placed there as extra board support, but the solid core wire proved to be stiff enough to pass on extra jumpers. You must install the two sets of jumpers on top, since one provides the positive voltage, and the other the negative voltage to the driver board.

Ive just noticed that on page 38 of your document, you have labelled the pot 123 from the back instead of the usual 321, so for the purposes of the above, assume that Im referring to 3 as 1 and vice versa.

Got it. No problem.

[alanp]

... you guys are insane, taking on vero of this size. (Not stupid, though.) I think I'll hang out for Govt's PCB layout, though! (I love me some phaser and flangery goodness!)

[Govmnt_Lacky]

... you guys are insane, taking on vero of this size. (Not stupid, though.) I think I'll hang out for Govt's PCB layout, though! (I love me some phaser and flangery goodness!)

Bro.... you will be hanging a LONG time. I do not have the skillset to do a PCB of this magnitude. Even if I attempted it, I would be looking at 10X the amount of time that it would take some of these Eagle artists here 

[hangingmonkey]

Dino, thanks for such a fast response. That was helpfull. Looks like ive got a lot of schematic reading to do. Ill post back again after ive made some progress.

[UKToecutter]

I might have a bash at this.........

[alanp]

I need help. I bought a Cioks AC10 just to get power for this, and the Schumann PLL board. (Where the hell does that yank phrase "pull the trigger" come from? Swipe the EFTPOS card is more like it. (EFTPOS == electronic fund transaction at point of sale. If a shop in NZ doesnt have it, they don't have customers.))

My Infinitphase is waiting on parts, right now. Need to order the case, and some of those rectangular LEDs from Mouser. Quite looking forward to wrapping it up!

[digi2t]

I need help. I bought a Cioks AC10 just to get power for this, and the Schumann PLL board. (Where the hell does that yank phrase "pull the trigger" come from? Swipe the EFTPOS card is more like it. (EFTPOS == electronic fund transaction at point of sale. If a shop in NZ doesnt have it, they don't have customers.))

My Infinitphase is waiting on parts, right now. Need to order the case, and some of those rectangular LEDs from Mouser. Quite looking forward to wrapping it up!

"Pull the trigger"? Easy. If you've decided to shoot, then you have to "pull the trigger". It just got expanded to mean proceeding with a very serious decision, as was shooting a man. Hence, "I mulled over buying that Ibanez for months, but last week, I finally pulled the trigger.".

[alanp]

Who has phase? This guy does! And this guy hates vero, too. Mostly.



It works! The insane board count is chiefly to get around Eagle's size limitation. I need to socket the LDR's and replace them with a matching set -- there is a noticeable dip in the sweep, midway. Either that or I need more bench time with my oscilloscope to tune the LFO in. The 4/8 switch is wired in, but the fast/slow switch is not, yet.

Night shot: (the rate was fast enough that the camera caught several pots during the travel....) bottom lights are the lit up pots, top constellation is the phase engine board.

The sweeping, lit up pots are very sexy.



The LFO and phase boards need to be reworked -- there are cut traces and wire links, plus the 4/8 switch is not on the phase board (that's why the phase board had cut traces and links...)

[alanp]

The LDR's need replacing badly (I found out the hard way that Digi2T is not kidding when he says you need to match them), and I forgot to drill the holes for the switches, so this isn't buttoned up, yet.

But it works!

I'll tidy the wiring up (shorten the runs, etc) once I've got the rest sorted. Good thing about this wiring is I can just pull all the wires going to a board, and then take the board out without desoldering.

[jishnudg]

Would love to see a MFOS Subcommander Vero (that's as large as they get,right?) - - my own attempt has been on hold for months, mainly due to frustration

[digi2t]

Would love to see a MFOS Subcommander Vero (that's as large as they get,right?) - - my own attempt has been on hold for months, mainly due to frustration

I think I would rather drop the 45 clams on that one. The Infinitphase vero, as with some others, was born of necessity. I don't etch, so vero was my only option. In instances where a PCB is readily available for more complex circuits, i.e. Storm Tide Flanger, Tau Pipe phaser, etc., then I'll happily put my vero cracking skills aside.

Not that I don't enjoy a good nut cracking sometimes. Doing the Infinitphase vero certainly was interesting, as was the Ludwig Phase II. Sometimes, I just can't help myself, but as 50 quickly approaches, I like to think that I'm getting a bit wiser.

Maybe....

@alanp;

Looking good so far, but I'm a bit worried about the possibility of ticking. I found that the LFO signal really flies around in here when using any substantial amount of wire inside the box. That's why I spec'd shielded wire for all the in/outs, and some of the pot connections.

[alanp]

Yeah, I thought I had shielded wire... turns out I don't. I need to order some.