soldering station - 110V -> 220V

[Dimitree]

hello everyone
I have a Weller WLC100 soldering station, it's 40W, input 110V.
I live in europe so it's 240-220V here.
I was wondering if I could use this soldering station without damaging it.
I found schematic/infos here:

http://www.sentex.ca/~mec1995/circ/wlc100.html

there's also a circuit. Maybe if I change some parts I can run it at 220V (for example the triac)? or maybe I could plug the iron (without the station) directly to 220V?
I just don't want to throw it away, maybe I can use it somehow.

many thanks
Dimitri

[jbgron]

I run my 110V Weller soldering station in Australia (240V) using a step down transformer.  Never had a problem after 2+ years.

[PRR]

230V will damage the iron if you turn the knob too far.

Triac is just a chopper-switch. Different triac does the same thing.

Step-down transformer is the practical choice.

*Maybe* you could replace just the iron with a 230V iron.

But since this is not truly temperature-controlled (it's just a lamp-dimmer), and a 100W step-down is a good fraction of today's prices for true temp-controlled stations, I'd be inclined to get a proper 230V station.

[J0K3RX]

Can't you get 110/120 from one side of the 240? I do it here in the US all the time... called a cheater cord Ok, tear me a new A hole on how it's not safe...

[Mike Burgundy]

*very* not safe, indeed, but no, not possible. AFAIK split-phase nets have been totally replaced by single-phase in Europe. All the better - you'd need TWO fuses per connection for safety since both Live and "Neutral" are hot  - and this was often neglected. Years ago I did encounter it in a very old house (crcuitbreaker removed - still got a jolt from neutral, what the %$#@%?? I always *measure* since that one), but everything is single phase now.
@OP: What Paul said - the cost of a Variac or step-down is close enough to the price of an iron - get a new iron. Get a temperature controlled one while you're at it.
You could email Weller and ask if there is a 240V element available, and if that is a viable solution.

[Dimitree]

thank you for the help
would one of these "220V TO 110V adapter" work?
they are pretty cheap:

http://www.ebay.it/sch/i.html?_nkw=110+220+adapter+50w&_sacat=0&_odkw=110+220+adapter&_sop=15&_osacat=0&_from=R40&LH_PrefLoc=2

[PRR]

> "220V TO 110V adapter" work?

If the _iron_ is less than 48 Watts, then yes, this should work. (Allow a couple watts for the base unit's loss and light.)

These are actually transformers, what you need.

There is another class, nearly as small, but rated like 500 Watts. These will work with clothes-irons and other very slow heaters without triac dimmers. This type *might* work but I fear the pulsating power might confuse or hurt the solder station's controls or stress the teeny heater in the solder iron.

> get 110/120 from one side of the 240?

We (US/Canada) have 240V center-tapped (two 120V windings). 120V comes right off.

Most nations who re-electricfied after the invention of good rubber opted for 200V systems. The supply transformer has only 230V winding(s). In residential work there are two phase conductors, 230V apart, one (usually) grounded.

So from our point of view, it is like asking for 60V on our circuits. There's no trivial way. We can wire two identical lamps in series on 120V, and measure 60V at the joint, but it will sag with any load (unless the lamps are MUCH larger than the load). We can chop half the wave out, the common triac lamp dimmer; but that solder-station is already a triac dimmer and will interact. The direct path is a 120V:60V transformer; as Dimitree found the little shaver converters are not that expensive.

[Dimitree]

> "220V TO 110V adapter" work?
If the _iron_ is less than 48 Watts, then yes, this should work. (Allow a couple watts for the base unit's loss and light.)

how can I check that (if there's a way to) ?
the "whole" unit is reported as 40W

[gritz]

thank you for the help
would one of these "220V TO 110V adapter" work?
they are pretty cheap:

http://www.ebay.it/sch/i.html?_nkw=110+220+adapter+50w&_sacat=0&_odkw=110+220+adapter&_sop=15&_osacat=0&_from=R40&LH_PrefLoc=2

Colour me a touch cynical about cheap Chinese electronics, but it looks a tad small for a box with a proper 50VA tranny in it. How's your house insurance? Maybe have a look for similar stuff on Amazon and check out user reviews. I don't imagine that they're built for anything gutsier than a phone charger, or electric toothbrush. That's what the manufacturers are probably relying on, at least.

Let's be careful out there. 

[Dimitree]

right, it's better not buy those cheap adapters..
so, since I can't use the iron-station here, and since buying a good transformer would cost more than the actual station,
what if I use the station and the iron without turning the knob too far?
maybe there's a way to calculate the "limit" of the knob in order to get more or less the max allowed by the iron?

[Dimitree]

hi again,
I found an Autotransformer with output 110V - 800mA.
would this give enough power for the 40W soldering station?

[armdnrdy]

40 watts @ 120 volts calculates out to about 1/3 of an amp. (330 mA)

The 800mA should work fine.