SHO Clone parts list. Noob in need of help.

[TaylorSampson]

Hi all,
I'm new to this whole thing and I heard that making a SHO clone was an easy first project to do. I went over to small bear and picked out a bunch of stuff i saw on schematics, could anyone roll through my list and tell me if I have any unnecessary components or duplicates or anything? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Here is the list:
1 Meg metal film Resistor
1N4148 diode (2)
100k metal filk resistor
22k metal film resistor
Mosfet IRF510 transistor  or FET BS170 transistor (I'm not sure which one i need)
LED 3/4 5mm water clear high brightness
Alpha SF17020F-302 3PDT (footswitch thingy)
.1mf multi layer ceramic capacitor
10mf dipped tantalum capacitor
1/4 in. Mono #NYS229 (2)
47mf dipped tantalum 16 volt capacitor
Alpha 16mm Single-gang reverse audio 5K (pot)
#22 pre-bond wire
1090NS
Metal Film 2K resistor (for LED)
2.1 mm Metal jack DC power (power plug in thingy)

Now as I said before I am really really new to this and don't really understand a whole lot in terms of the differences between a 22K and a 100k resistor and all that business, I'm just trying to get a little list together for this project. So if I'm missing anything on that list please let me know! Thanks.

[alparent]

Get aone mono and one stereo 1/4 jack instead of two mono. You will use the steror one as a switch to turn of the effect when the input jack is not pluged in.

Also get the plastic 2.1 DC jack (so you don't have any shorting problems.)

As for the transistor the BS170 should be OK. But You did not post from what schematic you are working?
It would help alot I we knew what schematic you are using.

I prefer diffused LED (but that is purelly personal)

[chptunes]

I agree with alparent.

Referencing this Schematic..

Your quantity of 1M Resistors should be two instead of one, unless you want to add a Pull-Down (anti-pop) Resistor.. then it should be 3 total.

Instead of the 22k Resistor, you'll need a 5.1k if you intend to use the C5k Volume Pot.

Instead of two Mono 1/4" Jacks, you might want one Mono and one Stereo Jack for switching the power on-off.  Look at this:  http://beavisaudio.com/techpages/StompboxWiring/

Not sure which DC power jack you're referring to.. I would use this one:  http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=93

Otherwise, if you have an iron and 60/40 solder, you might want some heat-shrink tubing.. a knob for the volume control.. a holder for the 5mm LED..

-Corey

[TaylorSampson]

Sorry i totally didn't think about putting the schematic in there. But chptunes had the correct one. I updated my list so i now have one mono and one stereo as well as a 5.1k resistor as well as 2 1M resistors.

I also have a couple more questions, These two schematics look similar to me Schematic 1 // Schematic 2 but one uses a 47u capacitor but uses no 1N4148 diodes as far as i can tell, can someone explain why this is?

Also I see these blue things in all these SHO clones, could someone tell me what it is? blue thing
blue thing 2
I'm not sure but it looks like it is under the footswitch, is it a separate part or something different altogether?

Thanks again.

[Kipper4]

Just built it and mine doesnt work Ahhhh

[IvIark]

My layout which you have down there as Schematic 2 is the updated SHO which uses a single zener diode from gate to ground instead of the 1N4148 pair that was previously used.  The 47u capacitor I added is just a power supply filter cap to reduce noise and ripple.  

The SHO definitely has 2 x 10M resistors though giving it a very high input impedance, as you can see in the ZVex Inventobox documentation, but it has 2 x 1M resistors in the Box of Rock.  I recently posted a more compact layout on the blog if you want to keep the board size down more.

[J0K3RX]

I believe the "blue thing" you are referring to is the switch

I haven't built that version of the SHO but see no reason why it would not work...

I have built this one and worked great...
http://revolutiondeux.blogspot.com/2012/01/zvex-super-duper.html

In any case I would consider making R5 - 100k resistor a 100k vol pot as a valuable option!

[davent]

Those are 10M resistors at the input not 1M. You can replace the two 4148 diodes with one 9v1 zener as in later versions of the SHO. If you use a 3pdt for bypass, you can wire it up to ground the SHO board input when bypassed and skip the pulldown resistor.

http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.ca/2010/07/zvex-super-hard-on-updated-version.html


I searched without success this afternoon for those power jacks at Small Bear and couldn't get them to show up so placed the order without them and now there they are, bummer.

 
The non working SHO could be something as simple as the Mosfet incorrectly oriented, did you try it the other way round?
dave

[Kipper4]

I got it working made a rookie mistake as usual.
I get there in the end.
Not much crackle thought (cant test it properly till morning when the wife goes to work)
I'll give it a good go then.

[Kipper4]

Heres what i did
i soldered the leg on the diode from the bottom of it to the top of it.
I knew i should have cut it off as i went along i just forgot and ended up soldering it up somehow.
What a div.

[TaylorSampson]

Sorry for all the seemingly stupid questions, but could someone tell me what the red squares are on the perf board?

Schematic 2

[Keppy]

That's vero, not perf. The rows of holes are connected by a continuous trace of copper. The red squares are where you cut the traces. For example, in the top row the input wire connects to the 100nF cap, then there's a cut in the row. After the cut, the rest of the row connects the 5k1 resistor, the 47uF cap, and the 2k2 resistor to +9v. Compare the connections of those components to the schematic you're using to get a better idea of how the components in a schematic end up on a physical layout.

If you're building this layout, I hope you bought a piece of veroboard, since it's not in your supplies list. If not, you should be able to find a perfboard layout here no problem.

[TaylorSampson]

I did end up buying vero board so I spose I lucked out on that one. But thank you so much! you explained it really well, it actually clicked for me.

[davent]

I've been recently seduced by the beauty and simplicity of building with vero or stripboard. Found these guides very helpful, from the master of veroboard.

http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.ca/2012/09/vero-layout-guide.html
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.ca/2012/04/vero-build-guide.html

dave

[tca]

I've been recently seduced by the beauty and simplicity of building with vero or stripboard. Found these guides very helpful, from the master of veroboard.

http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.ca/2012/09/vero-layout-guide.html
http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.ca/2012/04/vero-build-guide.html

dave

Nice tutorials! Thanks.

[Kipper4]

Saved in my Theory and Stickys Favorite folder thanks