I Am In Love....

[Ronan]

Any chance of hosting the clip where a person might be able to access it?

[smallbearelec]

Well, I have a wide assortment of suitable magnet wire, and a meter that will let me measure inductance.  Perhaps I can wind my own.

Mark--

I would like to know if the Epcos pot core:

http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=368

and Soderon #38 wire would save people from having to rummage through spares. OK if i send you a couple to try out?

[Paul Marossy]

Any chance of hosting the clip where a person might be able to access it?

Send me a PM and I can email it to you.

[Mark Hammer]

Well, I have a wide assortment of suitable magnet wire, and a meter that will let me measure inductance.  Perhaps I can wind my own.

Mark--

I would like to know if the Epcos pot core:

http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=368

and Soderon #38 wire would save people from having to rummage through spares. OK if i send you a couple to try out?

Well, here's what I'm working with.  And I have #38 wire.  So yeah, if you're up to wasting 2 on me, I'm game.  Gonna have to read up on how to wind them, but at least I can measure the result.  Much appreciated.

[smallbearelec]

Well, here's what I'm working with.  And I have #38 wire.  So yeah, if you're up to wasting 2 on me, I'm game.  Gonna have to read up on how to wind them, but at least I can measure the result.  Much appreciated.

In the mail tomorrow. Anything I send to you is Never wasted.

[puretube]

It appears that I technically have the only clone in the world at this point in time. I hope you guys you can build one somehow.

Did you actually use this pot ? ? ?

[Paul Marossy]

It appears that I technically have the only clone in the world at this point in time. I hope you guys you can build one somehow.

Did you actually use this pot ? ? ?

Yeah, that's the one I used when I built it back in 2003, still using it. I was never able to get it to sound right until I saw a corrected schematic & fixed it and got approximately the right size inductors in it. That pot works real well with it in a Crybaby shell.

[Paul Marossy]

I added a footswitch to be able to easily go between bau wau and yoy yoy modes by just tipping my foot forward some. I had a very small SPDT push button switch that I was able to modify for use with my wah pedal. Works out pretty well. I really love being able to easily switch between the two modes now.  







I used a piece of sturdy plastic red tubing to extend the switch actuator a little bit. Easy to intentionally switch but difficult to unintentionally switch.

[digi2t]

 

Nice Paul!

How did you do the label? That looks super sharp.

[Paul Marossy]

Nice Paul!

How did you do the label? That looks super sharp.

It's copper shielding tape with some .99 cent store stick on letters.

[digi2t]

Well, I'll be damned. Looks like it was molded. Great idea.

[Paul Marossy]

I have my moments... 

[Mark Hammer]

The DIY wah inductor kits that Steve Daniels so generously offered me arrived in the mail yesterday, and I cannot get over how easy they are to use.  They may look a little pricey for a few small bits of plastic, metal and ferrous material, but compared to buying pre-made stack-o-dimes inductors, an absolute bargain.  Plus, as amply demonstrated by the values Paul zeroed in on, these are inductor values you will be unlikely to purchase UNLESS you wind them yourself.  Pretty much everything commrcially available assumes a standard Crybaby type unit and inductance (550-600mh).

Turns out I had #39 and #36 but no #38 (at least that I've been able to identify yet).  Undeterred, just before I signed off for bed yesterday, I figured I'd throw 150 turns of #39 on the core by hand just to see what sort of wind I'm looking at.  One, two, three, four.....etc., and two minutes later I stop, snap the wire, tin the end, and measure.  12mh, just like that.  I'll remove the tryout wire later tonight and try a proper wind, with the core mounted on my hand drill.  With an approximate 4.25:1 turns-to-crank ratio, I can usually wind a Strat pickup in well under a half hour (at cruising speed, I put on about 320-360 turns per minute), so this shouldn't take more than 10-15 minutes.  I'll overshoot, measure, and gradually unwind.  I can't imagine that the #39 is problematically thinner gauge than #38, although the turns count will end up different than what folks using #38 arrive at.

I'm probably going to regret saying this, but I have way more #39 wire than I'll ever need or get through.  Since the amount required to make the requisite inductor is not especially large or require much time and effort to transfer, if need be, I would be happy to transfer some of my large roll onto a small plastic spool for those who wish to roll their own.  We can work out some reasonable arrangement off-line.

I do miss my old Schaller, so I'm looking forward to this.

Many thanks for the parts Steve, and many thanks for the specs, Paul.

[Paul Marossy]

Cool, I hope you can get your own clone going. I really love this thing. 

[Mark Hammer]

A couple of questions, some directed at you, some directed at anyone with an opinion.

1) How big is the 1.7H inductor?  I put approximately 1275 turns of #39 on one of the Epcos cores, and I'm measuring 252mh and 83R.  The space is not completely full, so I can easily put 300mh on the bobbin, and quite likely the requisite 550mh for a wah.  But even though I recognize that inductance is not a matter of a linear relationship with # turns,  I'll be damned if I know where to stick enough wire on to make up 1.7H.

2) In an effort to try and find room on the bobbin (and inside the ferrite pieces) to get up to 1.7H, am I undertaking any sort of risk to switch to #40 wire instead of #39?

[DiscoVlad]

Hopefully this is helpful...

Inductance is proportional to N² turns, if there's room for about 3200 turns on the bobbin, and my back of the envelope scratchings below are correct then you should be in the ballpark of 1.7H. (Big caveats here about not knowing the type and construction of the core being used).

1.7H ÷ 252mH ≈ 6.7 times more inductance which means you should need:
√6.7 ≈  2.5 more turns, for a total of:
2.5 x 1725 = 3187.5 turns.

[Mark Hammer]

Thanks, Vlad.  I think I can probably get 3k+ turns of #40 on there.  I know I certainly could NOT get 3k turns of #38.

I'LL let you know how it "turns" out.   

[paulyy]

I have to say thats a clever way to switch settings. That would work well for my rotovibe. If I can fix it first

[Paul Marossy]

A couple of questions, some directed at you, some directed at anyone with an opinion.

1) How big is the 1.7H inductor?  

It's about the same size as a Fasel, but I have two of these inductors in series to get 1.6H. The core I guess is on the outside? There is like a ferrite shell with the windings inside of it. The wire is barely bigger than a human hair. There's a picture of the circuitboard at my website on this page towards the bottom. http://www.diyguitarist.com/DIYStompboxes/MyStompboxes.htm
That picture shows it with two inductors as I originally built it. Now it actually has three inductors in it.

[Mark Hammer]

I attempted to solve my dilemma by taking the big inductor apart that I showed a picture of in this thread.  The wire on it appears to be #38 or maybe even #37.  It is now sitting in a big pile in my shop wastebasket.  The diameter and height of the bobbin is larger than the Epcos, so I can squeeze more inductance out of it, with fewer turns.  Late last night, I went medieval on that sucker with #39, and just wound and wound until I couldn't fit anymore on it; about 2500 turns by my estimate.  Indeed, I went a little overboard and had to take some windings off to be able to slide the two ferrite halves over it.  But I ended up with something that read about 7.5H on my meter.  So, later tonight, I plan on going home and ""unwinding" after work.   Somewhere in there is my 1.7H coil.  The 300mh unit is easily achieved with the Epcos core, though.