Underrated Fuzz Face

[fuzzymuff]

Tried this "fuzz face type fuzz" on a breadboard and is probably one of the best underrated fuzz sounding fuzz face type I've heard/built.  Thanks Mr. Gus Smalley for sharing this.  It was pretty easy putting it together on a breadboard, but for the life of me, I'm having such a hard time transfering it over to a vero or a pref board so I can box it up...

Is there a program out there that would transfer from breadboard to vero or pref layout?

[garcho]

unverified, untested, and pretty crappy, but I did it real fast. hope it helps. I used DIYLC.



You might want some power supply filtering...

[fuzzymuff]

Hey thanks!  I'll try that out.

[totes]

Made this perfboard layout really quickly on DIYLC as well. Again, it's unverified and untested. And sorry for the standing resistors, I love making my layouts really compact.

[fuzzymuff]

Nice!!  You guys are pros at this stuff.  I downloaded that DIYLC program, but I did you save and scale the size so that you are able to post it online?  I saved it and the image are too small to print or even post online.  Did you all save it as png or a gif, jpg file?

[joegagan]

ditto. i built a few from this schem a few years back. awesome fuzzface circ.

[fuzzymuff]

ditto. i built a few from this schem a few years back. awesome fuzzface circ.

Hey Joe,

Your Easy Face fuzz is awsome as well!  I built that awhile back and still loving it.  Its still on my pedalboard.

[garcho]

Yeah, we're all so lucky so many of these tinkerers are so generous with their time and knowledge.

[totes]

Nice!!  You guys are pros at this stuff.  I downloaded that DIYLC program, but I did you save and scale the size so that you are able to post it online?  I saved it and the image are too small to print or even post online.  Did you all save it as png or a gif, jpg file?

When I'm done with my design, I usually select everything and group it together so I can move it as a unit. Then, I move it to the top left corner of the workspace. Edit > Edit Project, change height and width unit to inches and lower the number until there is only a thin white border around the design. File > Export to PNG will make a PNG image file with what you see on your screen sans the grid, and it should be large enough. Also, in case you didn't know, scrolling the mouse wheel will zoom you in and out.
Another pro tip: Make a perf/strip board large enough for your circuit, then go to Lock Layers > Board to lock the board in place so it doesn't get in your way when you select and move components.

[petemoore]

 http://www.home-wrecker.com/sili-face2.html

  Shows perfboard FF which could easily be modified to Gus's FF Type thing using perfboard templates.

  http://www.runoffgroove.com/perftemplates.html

  Thanks ROG and Homewrecker !

[fuzzymuff]

Here is my attempt on making a vero layout of Gus Smalley's fuzz face.  How did I do for a first time attempt?  Is everthing correct?  I choose to use a DPDT to switch between output caps.

[garcho]

looks good to me

[deadastronaut]

yep..


tip:  on BOM properties use 2cm..for a vertical list....just easier to read.

[fuzzymuff]

yep..


tip:  on BOM properties use 2cm..for a vertical list....just easier to read.

Thanks!!

[fuzzymuff]

I was just looking at my layout and noticed R1 (Bias 1K linear pot).  Is the jumper in the correct place, lug 2 and lug 3, or should it be lug 2 and lug 1?  I can't read that in the schematic or Im not reading it correctly.

[petemoore]

  With a linear pot it won't matter.
  If the knob turns the wrong way, flip [invert] the wafer [outside] lugs of the pot wiring assignments...the wiper should be left connected as shown.

[fuzzymuff]

Thanks!  So is it true to say by rule of thumb using a pot in this function, the wiper should be jumpered to the lug going to ground?
I just searched the web and noticed that many bias control have the wiper jumpered to the ground.

[garcho]

We call the electro-mechanical device you stick a knob on a potentiometer. However, that's only one of its uses. It can also be wired as a rheostat. A rheostat is a variable resistor. Turning the knob connected to the shaft of a pot wired as a rheostat either raises or lowers the resistance, depending on if terminals 1 and 2 are connected, or terminals 2 and 3. A potentiometer uses the difference in resistance between terminals 1 and 2 and 2 and 3 to 'blend' the signals from terminals 1 and 3 together (hypothetically from 0% in one extreme or the other to 50/50%). Make any sense? Once you understand it, it seems so simple, but until then it seems so confusing.

[fuzzymuff]

I think I'm getting it, but I'm still learning.  I revised my layout, I hope its correct and much clearer to follow.  Would anyone check and verify it?  Thanks.

[fuzzymuff]

Here is one layout without the added SW1 DPDT switch.