Would You all Check my Vero Layout of the SiliFuzz?

[fuzzymuff]

Noob here.  First time using the DIYLC.  Did I make this vero layout of the sili fuzz correctly?

[digi2t]

Layout works for my eyes. On an esthetic note, I would try to shorten the leads on your C5 and C2.

Using axials would be fine, or if you're set on using radials add the necessary jumper(s) and/or cut(s). Keeping the leads short on something as "top heavy" as a radial cap will help reduce any mechanical stress on the solder joints if the pedal gets knocked around.

Nice job on the layout.

[Keppy]

The layout looks good, but according to the schematic R4 should be 4k7, not 47k. Good luck!

[fuzzymuff]

Layout works for my eyes. On an esthetic note, I would try to shorten the leads on your C5 and C2.

Using axials would be fine, or if you're set on using radials add the necessary jumper(s) and/or cut(s). Keeping the leads short on something as "top heavy" as a radial cap will help reduce any mechanical stress on the solder joints if the pedal gets knocked around.

Nice job on the layout.

Thank you so much for the advice.  I guess I should now stock up on axial caps....to bad tayda does not carry them.

[fuzzymuff]

The layout looks good, but according to the schematic R4 should be 4k7, not 47k. Good luck!

Good eye..  I knew I would overlook something like that.  Thanks!

[fuzzymuff]

Ok.... re did the vero layout with the great suggestions above...

[fuzzymuff]

Man,   I can see this pedal making stuff to be an addiction that will keep me in my garage for days

[fuzzymuff]

I updated it again, made the board smaller.  How's this?

[Keppy]

Your longer jumper should go to row F, not row D. Otherwise good!

[fuzzymuff]

Your longer jumper should go to row F, not row D. Otherwise good!

Thanks!!  Good eye!!

[digi2t]

OK, I'm doing this visually, so take this with a grain of salt....

Reading the coordinates as side/top;

-Move C5 negative to C/B
-Move all your components to the left 1 hole
-Move C3 to the right 4 places to H
-Add cut to C/D
-Add jumper from ground rail to C/C
-Use an inline upright trimmer in A/L, B/L, C/L holes, and you can lose the short jumper by simply bending the upper pin to short to the center pole with solder.

This should shorten your board by 3 holes overall. I think.

[fuzzymuff]

OK, I'm doing this visually, so take this with a grain of salt....

Reading the coordinates as side/top;

-Move C5 negative to C/B
-Move all your components to the left 1 hole
-Move C3 to the right 4 places to H
-Add cut to C/D
-Add jumper from ground rail to C/C
-Use an inline upright trimmer in A/L, B/L, C/L holes, and you can lose the short jumper by simply bending the upper pin to short to the center pole with solder.

This should shorten your board by 3 holes overall. I think.

Thanks!!  I'll give that a try.

[fuzzymuff]

Ok...So here is the rev 3, much smaller.  May fit in a 1590A by this time.  Thanks digl2t

[tonyharker]

Dont forget fixing holes otherwise it will be floating in mid air 

[digi2t]

Dont forget fixing holes otherwise it will be floating in mid air 

Slight sacrifice in size, but two sturdy mounting holes in return. Use a ground wire from one of the jacks for the volume pot;



3mm x 12mm screws, with plastic stand-off, and Nylok nuts is what I use. Remove a 3 x 3 section of copper strips in the corners as shown, to be sure that you don't have any grounding issues.

Use the trimmer pins to create the jump underneath the trimmer.