Securing LEDs to enclosures

[Govmnt_Lacky]

I really want to start securing LEDs to my enclosures WITHOUT the bezels. I think it looks much cleaner and more appealing to the eye. So, with that in mind....

What is the best way to do this? I am sure some or most of you will say "dab of super glue" however, I am paranoid that some of the glue will seep to the outside of the enclosure an create a nightmare for the finish.

Anyone have any tried and true methods for a good, clean look?

EDIT: This is mostly for the 3mm LEDs but, it could apply to the usual 5mm as well. In this case, I am concerned about the 3mm type

[stirfoo]

I thought about this for a while. I've got lots of LEDs to install in one enclosure. I also thought about just the LED poking through the plate but the only way I could come up with was to solder the LEDs to a PCB then mount that to the underside. That would have worked and I had tactile momentary switches mounted to the same board so it wasn't just the LEDs. I changed to a different switch and just decided to go with the plastic snap-in mounts for now.

[garcho]

I drilled a hole and used a bezel as per usual, but I installed the bezel upside down, and used a washer on the inside, so the butt end of the bezel sticks out just enough to be flush with the washer on the outside. I put the leads of the LED through the rubber place holder inside the bezel, and then hot glued the legs in the inside of the enclosure (no possibility of leaking to the outside through the rubber place holder). It's not as sturdy as it should be ( a solid whack might break the LED), but I've been gigging with it for a year, no problems yet.

[samhay]

If you drill the holes snug then the LED should stay put without glue. A 3mm will not protude very far either...

[Mark Hammer]

If you drill the holes snug then the LED should stay put without glue. A 3mm will not protude very far either...

+1 

Most 3mm LEDs will not protrude much above the surface of a Hammond-type box, if simply jammed into a just-big-enough hole.  So as long as they stay put, you should have no fear of pushing them in with your foot.

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Most 3mm LEDs will not protrude much above the surface of a Hammond-type box, if simply jammed into a just-big-enough hole.  So as long as they stay put, you should have no fear of pushing them in with your foot.

I understand your point here however, if I want to have that fuzzy warm feeling.... what is the best way to secure it with adhesive? dab of superglue? Hot glue?

[haveyouseenhim]

JB Weld should work wonders for you. It's super strong and it doesn't seep.

[Paul Marossy]

The next thing I build I am going to use something like this: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062568

I have a couple, one red and one green. The only thing I am not sure of is if they will be bright enough without modifications...

[rousejeremy]

Hot glue works fine for me, and Electro Harmonix.

[moosapotamus]

Goop is also a very good adhesive, and it's clear.

The next thing I build I am going to use something like this: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062568

I have a couple, one red and one green. The only thing I am not sure of is if they will be bright enough without modifications...

I've used those a number of times and they've been plenty bright as-is.

~ Charlie

[Paul Marossy]

The next thing I build I am going to use something like this: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062568

I have a couple, one red and one green. The only thing I am not sure of is if they will be bright enough without modifications...

I've used those a number of times and they've been plenty bright as-is.

~ Charlie

Good to know!

[aion]

Another thread from a few months ago with some good ideas.

[petey twofinger]

+1 on the hot glue

i have used masking tape on the outside then filled the hole with hot glue  , let that cure well . slowly remove the tape . if you rush that it doesnt look very nice , but i have also reheated this and it melts " clearer " looking . the led thru the glue looks nicer than i thunk .

also, i think deadastronaut has utilized fiber optics for some very cool effects .

[petemoore]

  Stick the legs through perfboard all the way to the body, solder the wires and LED to the little board [however big you want to make it], then secure the board.
  Many ways to secure a board...if trimmed and spaced perfect it can be 'wedged' under the stompswitch for example.
  With just the right size hole, a bit of glue and super carefully inserted LED [or insert led then blob the base and surrounding metal]...holds it in there.
  Especially if it's in a place that doesn't tend to get hammered [such as right next to the switch or other 'concave' area like around the knobs] and the 'just right size' hole makes the top of the LED about flush with the box top.

[jdub]

A dab o' clear silicone caulk would probably hold pretty well...

[kodiakklub]

+1 on silicone. GE now makes 30 minute silicone. and you can always just peel silicone off with some care. i prefer silicone any day over hot glue. i would think the old draw of hot glue was "drying" time, but now it only takes 30 minutes for the silicone to dry.

[davent]

I drill the LED hole with a 1/8" bit, paint the enclosure and the hole gets filled in a fair bit during painting so when the time comes i redrill with a 3mm bit and have found the hole is snug enough to hold the led just fine. I slip a thin 1/8" nylon washer onto the LED to prevent it from protruding too far through the enclosure.

If you use super glue don't apply it directly from it's bottle, squirt a drop onto a piece of plastic, anything non-porous and disposable and pick up a bit on the end of a toothpick, use that to apply the smallest of drops on the back edge of the hole then pop your led in the hole. There shouldn't be enough glue that it even has a chance to run.

Depending on where the pcb is relative to where you want the led(s), you can use the pcb to hold the led in the hole. For plated through holes on diy pcb's, take a socket, push through the pcb, solder in place, cut the bottom off and if needed open up the socket with a small drill bit. The sockets are barbed/ridged inside and fight pushing a lead through the wrong way so you need to run a bit through them anyways.

Ready for soldering.


When i use a millenium switch, i solder the led directly to that little pcb and by sticking the pcb to the enclosure with double sided tape, the led is held in place.
dave

[petey twofinger]

i have used silicone before as well , i dont care for the smell / clean up fact that in the past i have found it dries up when stored , any tips on what i am doing wrong ?

[John Lyons]

Drill out a #10 nut to fit a 5mm LED.
Epoxy the LED in the nut and the face of the nut to the hole in the enclosure.
The LED will just poke through.

[kodiakklub]

then again, i have switched over to these now anyway. LED's that come with a lead and integrated super low profile plastic snap in bezel
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/BIVAR/PM5RDW120/?qs=%2fha2pyFadujV%252bm4WNNqL2OgO0L7HGUY2dERdhQKdWkegGDwom6jhxg%3d%3d