How to / where to get nameplates made?

Started by fuzzmonger, May 30, 2013, 07:13:07 PM

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fuzzmonger

Hello DIYers,
Here's a headscratchers I've been having for a while - how can I make or, better yet, where can I get these little aluminium name plates made up? A google search yields little help, primarily because I don't even actually know the name of the process by which they're made or what the common name for them is. Here's some examples:





Thanks in advance,
Fuzzmonger
-Fuzzmonger

jbgron

I get faceplates made for my amps at the local trophy shop.  They use a laser engraver and can engrave plastic or alumunium.  Costs around $50 for a full amp faceplate.  I send them my artwork in vector format.

If you're in Melbourne (like your first name plate) then contact http://alltrophies.com.au, they're in Boronia.

armdnrdy

Prison?

Oh...name plates.... never mind!   ::)
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joegagan

i think the foxx ones were silkscreened. not sure about the rose morris, possibly screen also.
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PRR

I wonder if the Rose Morris may be acid-etch then paint?

If so, use PCB etching techniques. I know folks do this with aluminum. In modern times probably a toner-transfer, a bath in something that eats aluminum, rinse well, paint the low spots, then take stray paint off the high spots with fine sandpaper on a flat surface.

Sign shops and trophy shops know the materials to do this. 3M makes a 2-layer plate which can be imprinted with sign-shop technology.
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merlinb

Quote from: fuzzmonger on May 30, 2013, 07:13:07 PM
where can I get these little aluminium name plates made up?

This guy makes big plates, maybe he would be willing to make small plates too?
http://www.amplates.com/

fuzzmonger

Would toner suffice for the graphics or would it rub off too easily? I can't see any problem with getting some blank tags from a trophy shop, doing the ol' toner transfer, then clearcoating it, but I'm far from experienced with the method (I always mess it up and, frustrated, go back to perf)
-Fuzzmonger
-Fuzzmonger

artifus

#7
that could work though i would practice with a few more pcb's first. a cheap laminator may help with getting more consistent transfer results. if you're going to clear coat maybe just use letraset tranfers or reverse print to transparency and mount that?

maybe just try pcb stock - after etching spray board black then sand to reveal copper legend.

*also* google 'laser transfer foil' your local art and craft store may have something similar.

greaser_au

I have seen kitset front panels made with a 3M product (I'll probably remember what it's called at about 3am on tuesday), an adhesive-backed aluminium foil with a photosensitive black layer on  the front that, on exposure to light, and developing, yeilds a sticker much like the pictures shown. 

For robust labels like the rose morris one,  something like this may be useful: http://www.ebay.com/itm/121119078602   and here's how it works: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photosensitive_Anodized_Aluminum

david


markeebee

I made something similar with some scrap aluminium and waterslide decal:


darron

#11
i've made some similar ones using a laser.



similar especially, in that they both say made "made in melbourne"

Quote from: fuzzmonger on May 30, 2013, 07:13:07 PM



as an alternative you could try etching some black PCB, which I've just started revisiting recently, also melbourne



edit: of course, you'd have to do a colour reverse, which would be the normal way of etching a PCB
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LucifersTrip

try searches for "metal plaques" or the less expensive option "metal stickers"
always think outside the box

J0K3RX

#13
I've seen guy set up at flea markets make them and in malls... maybe try a trophy place? google it and you will find hundreds...

First one I pulled up.. http://www.plaquemaker.com/PlateOrder.html

Drill a couple holes, pop rivets, done
Doesn't matter what you did to get it... If it sounds good, then it is good!

davent

Quote from: fuzzmonger on May 31, 2013, 08:04:33 AM
Would toner suffice for the graphics or would it rub off too easily? I can't see any problem with getting some blank tags from a trophy shop, doing the ol' toner transfer, then clearcoating it, but I'm far from experienced with the method (I always mess it up and, frustrated, go back to perf)
-Fuzzmonger

Frequencycentral, long ago showed toner transfer labelling of his synth modules and deadastronaut recently posted pictures of his experiments with toner transfer labelling of a few of his pedals. Clearcoat is necessary for protection/durability.

John Lyons and Madbean often use pcb blanks to make great looking etched badges for their builds.

dave
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J0K3RX

Quote from: davent on June 01, 2013, 09:51:16 AM


John Lyons and Madbean often use pcb blanks to make great looking etched badges for their builds.

dave

That's a great idea!!
Doesn't matter what you did to get it... If it sounds good, then it is good!

Kipper4

Quote from: jbgron on May 30, 2013, 08:28:53 PM
I get faceplates made for my amps at the local trophy shop.  They use a laser engraver and can engrave plastic or alumunium.  Costs around $50 for a full amp faceplate.  I send them my artwork in vector format.

If you're in Melbourne (like your first name plate) then contact http://alltrophies.com.au, they're in Boronia.


i'm getting some lasering done soon but i'm still confused about the vector thing. I'm not threadjaking here but if you could explain this i'd be greatful thanks.
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John Lyons

Basic Audio Pedals
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Kipper4

Thanks
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Ma throats as dry as an overcooked kipper.


Smoke me a Kipper. I'll be back for breakfast.

Grey Paper.
http://www.aronnelson.com/DIYFiles/up/