A better or your best LED bezel?

Started by Focalized, July 05, 2013, 02:50:04 AM

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amptramp

I'm waiting for the stompswitch with the built-in LED (or LED socket) so two mechanical mounting hassles become one.  A LED boresighted with the switch actuator could be useful to a lot of people.

davent

Quote from: gtrgeo on July 12, 2013, 03:41:28 PM
davent - What are you using to solder the LED leads to the board? They look like the metal part of the socket that have been soldered in, and are the ends cut off?

Thanks,
  George

Exactly, individual SIP or DIP sockets popped out of the strip, the ends cut off and soldered in for diy plated through holes. The insides of the sockets are barbed to hold leads in place so they need to be drilled out to allow the leads to be inserted the wrong way 'round. Once the proper protrudance through the enclosure is established they get soldered to the top of the board. Only way i could figure out how to do what i wanted.

dave
"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown
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Rylan

Who needs a bezel? Just use the drill like everyone else suggested, then I would further suggest using a ball grinder bit to shape a nice reflective surface around it.

psychedelicfish

Quote from: amptramp on July 12, 2013, 11:06:36 PM
I'm waiting for the stompswitch with the built-in LED (or LED socket) so two mechanical mounting hassles become one.  A LED boresighted with the switch actuator could be useful to a lot of people.
If you were to get/make a large bezel, you could mount it with a spring between it and the enclosure, and have a small magnet attached to the bezel, which, when pushed down, would move the magnet closer to a reed switch on the board, which triggers a flip-flop to control some kind of electronic switch
If at first you don't succeed... use bigger transistors!

TG Flatline

I use clear low-profile plastic ones: http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Clear-Lens-for-5mm-LED-Low-Profile-55-0970

I find them ace because you can have a very bright LED but a lot of the glare gets taken out by the lens. They're more visibly lit off axis as well, and are better than a pure LED on an outside stage too. Mint.

pickdropper

Quote from: TG Flatline on July 30, 2013, 04:50:03 AM
I use clear low-profile plastic ones: http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Clear-Lens-for-5mm-LED-Low-Profile-55-0970

I find them ace because you can have a very bright LED but a lot of the glare gets taken out by the lens. They're more visibly lit off axis as well, and are better than a pure LED on an outside stage too. Mint.

Those are the fresnel lenses I was talking about.  Love those things.

GGBB

Quote from: TG Flatline on July 30, 2013, 04:50:03 AM
I find them ace because you can have a very bright LED but a lot of the glare gets taken out by the lens. They're more visibly lit off axis as well, and are better than a pure LED on an outside stage too. Mint.

I wet sand the super bright LEDs to get rid of the glare and increase diffusion.
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PhiloB

I've done the vero + hot glue with success.  The LED Is located just below the circuit.  The 4 hole 2 row LED vero gives plenty of surface area for the hot glue to hold really well.