DPDT footswitch popping problem

[simpleobserver]

duck_arse - I actually did use a 3PDT switch for that LED

Mike Burgundy - is the "Vref" your talking about "REF" on the schem? 

[armdnrdy]

I'll answer for Mike.

Yes. vref is REF.

I think Mike might be right about tying the pulldown resistor to vref. If it still pops......try ground.

[simpleobserver]

I tried both and i think they both work.  I'm gonna keep it at running to Vref and put it back on my board, see if i have any problems on stage (where it will go wrong if it's going to go wrong!).  Thanks guys!

[armdnrdy]

Good to hear!

[simpleobserver]

So...I lied.  It didn't work, though I did realize that running it at 18v, as I've been doing, makes the pop much louder and I keep thinking it's fixed at home until I put it back on my board because at home I test it with a battery and on my board I've got a power brick.  I tried changing switches ans that didn't help at all, so I think i'm gonna try moving that ground thing we talkked about to actual ground and not vref, see if that helps.  If not, i could really use some suggestions!

[simpleobserver]

no dice.  nothing has worked so far.  If I run it at 9v, the pop is there, but bearable.  is it just an issue of not running it at 18v?  How can I get it not to pop at 18v?  I tried a 1M to ground and someone mentioned 2.2M, would that make a difference? 

[simpleobserver]

Also noticed something else.  I was gonna put a bigger resister behind the LEDs to lower the brightness of them (they are clear blue ones) and I noticed that I put a 22k resister behind the both of them.  I'm surprised I can see them at all with that big a resister behind them, does them.  Could that have something to do with something?

[simpleobserver]

I should really say that the resister is in front of the LEDs.

[simpleobserver]

I might have made a mistake putting that resister in.  I might have meant to put a 2.2k and put a 22k instead.  It looks like I also put a 22k in front of the bypass switch LED too.  They're real bright, though.  does that make sense?

[bluebunny]

They're real bright, though.  does that make sense?

Nope.  Sure it's a 22K and not 22 ohms?

[simpleobserver]

Yeah, I'm sure.  Red, red, orange, gold.

[simpleobserver]

What about this anyi-popping mod?  anybody tried this?

http://s440.photobucket.com/user/devnulljp/media/ANTI-POP-1.png.html

I'm worried about trying too much before I figure out this LED thing first.  I really don't understand what the deal is with the 22k resisters before all my LEDs.  plus I want them dimmer.  Do I just try bigger ones?

[simpleobserver]

nope, anti-popping mod didn't help.

[induction]

This is the schem i used.  It only shows the half of the switch that switches the pot, the other half of the switch just goes from the 9v to the ground of the TL074.

Can you explain the bolded part a little better, or put it on the schem?  I'm having a hard time picturing what it means.

[induction]

Never mind.  You're using an led to indicate which pot you're switched to. 

Two ideas:
1.  Temporarily disconnect that led.  Does it still pop?
2.  Instead of the pulldown on the switching node (39K resistor), try one pulldown each to the nodes being switched to (the wipers of the pots).  Try 1M each to start, and they should go to Vref, not ground.

[simpleobserver]

Sorry, yeah.  What i meant to say was the other side of the dpdt switch switches between two ultra bright blue LEDs to ground.  I don't think it really matters but I grounded them at the ground of the TL074, on the 11th lug or whatever.  Sorry, I don't really know how to draw it on the schem, but it shows it on the layout (though i was having trouble posting the layout before).  I think it must be the LEDs with the pedal running at 18v.  i can just run it at 9v and the pop is ok, but i'd rather figure out how to use it at 18v if i can.

[simpleobserver]

Still pops after the LEDs are disconnected.  Trying the pulldowns on the pots to vRef.

[simpleobserver]

no dice.  neither helped at all.  Any other ideas? 

[induction]

How about switching the pot inputs (lugs 3) and outputs (lugs 2) at the same time?  If it works you'll need a 3PDT to include the leds, but you could try it without the leds to see if it helps.

[simpleobserver]

nope.  no help.