Second build - No bypass OR cicuit sound but LED works. HELP?!

Started by ajstahl, July 20, 2013, 09:55:47 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

ajstahl

Hey guys
This is my second build and it's a GGG Shin-Ei companion fuzz clone.
Basically, populated the circuit and have wired everything up only to get the LED working when the pedal is on.
No bypass or circuit sound, just hum when touching the jacks.
The pedal is still not fitted to the enclosure, I thought i'd get this fixed up before trying to mount it.
I followed the wiring layout and everything i've done seems to fully match it.
The link for the diagram is here:
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_secf_lo.pdf?phpMyAdmin=78482479fd7e7fc3768044a841b3e85a

This has been driving me nuts! Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.
Thanks!

Thecomedian

it could be a grounding issue. do you have a multimeter to test the circuit? Are you testing it on a non-conductive surface? Are you sure the pins are set properly for the transistors? have you checked that the bypass/on switch is swapping inputs and outputs properly?
If I can solve the problem for someone else, I've learned valuable skill and information that pays me back for helping someone else.

Jdansti

Just confirming:

Switch position 1: LED lights. No guitar sound.

Switch position 2: LED off. No guitar sound.

Is this correct?
  • SUPPORTER
R.G. Keene: EXPECT there to be errors, and defeat them...

ajstahl

Quote from: Jdansti on July 21, 2013, 12:31:08 AM
Just confirming:

Switch position 1: LED lights. No guitar sound.

Switch position 2: LED off. No guitar sound.

Is this correct?
Quote from: Thecomedian on July 20, 2013, 11:12:50 PM
it could be a grounding issue. do you have a multimeter to test the circuit? Are you testing it on a non-conductive surface? Are you sure the pins are set properly for the transistors? have you checked that the bypass/on switch is swapping inputs and outputs properly?

Hey thanks for the quick reply guys.

Jdansti, that's exactly how it is! No guitar sound in both on and off positions.

Thecomedian, I don't have a multimeter but clearly should get one ASAP, how much do they generally cost?
It's on a wooden computer desk. I've double checked polarity on all components on the circuit, and I'm pretty damn sure I've wired the inputs and outputs up right. At least, it's the same as the the diagram I linked

armdnrdy

I just designed a new fuzz circuit! It almost sounds a little different than the last fifty fuzz circuits I designed! ;)

ajstahl

Quote from: armdnrdy on July 21, 2013, 01:39:35 AM
Read through this and follow the instructions to get more help.

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=29816.0

Hey thanks! Are you saying type my issue up like it suggests to write it or go through those steps? I've gone through all the steps except for using the multimeter since i won't be able to get one for a few days...
Any other suggestions?
Thanks

LucifersTrip

Quote from: armdnrdy on July 21, 2013, 01:39:35 AM
Read through this and follow the instructions to get more help.

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=29816.0

no multimeter :icon_exclaim:

The real first step is to breadboard so you know if it works before committing to solder
http://www.ebay.com/itm/K1BO-PCB-Universal-Printed-Circuit-Bread-Board-Breadboard-Circuit-Panel-SYB-120-/251269371576?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a80d256b8

With no multimeter and no pre-tested circuit, a good thing to do is remove the switch from the equation to eliminate that as a possible problem.
Since you're getting zero sound in bypass mode, it's also a poss that you don't have the jacks wired correctly. Test your jack wiring by removing the circuit and simply going from 1 jack  into the other with  alligator clips connecting them.....then hook em back into the circuit, get your bypass working and go from there...and get a multimeter. You can get Asian cheapos for a few bucks, but not recommended if you want to do this for more than a build or 2.  You can get a reasonable one for $15 - 25
always think outside the box

Buzz

I had this problem on one of my first builds. I had wired up the signal to the ground ( and vice versa ) on the output jack. As lucifers trip has also stated the input / output jacks are the most likely culprit in this scenario. It would seem the stompswitch is working if the LED is coming on.

It's easy to mix up which tab is which on the jacks... especially without a Multimeter.
I am the Nightrider. I'm a fuel injected stompbox machine. I am the rocker, I am the roller, I am the MIDI-controller!

ajstahl

Quote from: Buzz on July 21, 2013, 03:37:43 AM
I had this problem on one of my first builds. I had wired up the signal to the ground ( and vice versa ) on the output jack. As lucifers trip has also stated the input / output jacks are the most likely culprit in this scenario. It would seem the stompswitch is working if the LED is coming on.

It's easy to mix up which tab is which on the jacks... especially without a Multimeter.

Just checked and it looks i HAVE got the right tabs on the jacks
This is so so frustrating! Especially considering it's probably just a simple stuff on my behalf.

Thecomedian

Do you have the chance to take two top down pictures of the board?
If I can solve the problem for someone else, I've learned valuable skill and information that pays me back for helping someone else.




Jdansti

It's hard to tell from the photos, but you might not have the ground wire from the board connected to the correct lug on the DC jack. The GGG drawing shows the board ground connected to the lug that is "L" shaped and not in either if the two lugs that project straight outbid the back of the jack.

Can you get a straight on shot of the back of the jack and still show where the wires connect on high ends?
  • SUPPORTER
R.G. Keene: EXPECT there to be errors, and defeat them...

Mustachio

The components that matter which direction their in look correct from the pics. The 3pdt looks correct, input output looks good.

It's hard to see in the pic but I think the dc jack is wired wrong. You see how there's 2 lugs that come straight up and one that has a right angle in it like a bent over tab, That is center it should have a small rivet looking bit in the center of it. That one is negative and goes to ground. Looks like in your pic that lug goes to batterys positive. The top lug goes to board power and looks like you have that right. and the last lug left should go to battery positive.

If I'm right just swap those 2 wires. That being said I'm wondering a bit about the LED working, I can see the board looks to be getting power right but ground isn't right, but the switch is grounded right so when it flips over it is giving the led correct connection I guess.

Good luck and hope it helps. The board and soldering all looks good, good job! Keep building!

        ::::::EDIT::::OH John beat me to it ! haha nice!::::::
"Hhhhhhhnnnnnnnnnnnnngggggggg"

ajstahl

Good pickup guys :)
Switched that around and i'm afraid it still doesn't work normally, BUT, will worked bypassed if i have my input lead clicked in only once.
So it'll work when the lead is in but not touching the second end end of the stereo input jack if that makes sense?

ajstahl



Does that pic sort of show what I'm saying? Excuse the big bulky soldering haha

MrStab

Quote from: ajstahl on July 21, 2013, 08:22:31 AM
will worked bypassed if i have my input lead clicked in only once.

in my experience, this means something is probably shorting (to ground?) somewhere. check for things touching each other. but in a legal and morally-acceptable way ofc.

check the back of the board for solder bridges & stuff, as no-one can seem to identify any definite offboard wiring problems.

you'll probably find that if you try changing the hot/tip wire to the middle lug (seeing as that now appears to be your new tip), it'll stop working again.
Recovered guitar player.
Electronics manufacturer.

deadastronaut

if you get really frustrated...there is always this.. :)

http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/thoughts/wiring-up-a-1590b/

note the dc jack wiring.

gauss explains connecting the battery snap in writing too...

i use this wiring setup all the time, never fails...(but without battery)... ;)
https://www.youtube.com/user/100roberthenry
https://deadastronaut.wixsite.com/effects

chasm reverb/tremshifter/faze filter/abductor II delay/timestream reverb/dreamtime delay/skinwalker hi gain dist/black triangle OD/ nano drums/space patrol fuzz//

Mustachio

In the last pic  you posted you have your jack wired wrong. See how its seperated in 3 sections, The furthest one down( to the right in the pic) is the jack tip, the middle one is jack ring and the top most one is sleeve.

So from the bottom up it will go Input wire to 3pdt, middle lug will go to battery negative, and last lug will go to the other jacks ground.

Good luck
"Hhhhhhhnnnnnnnnnnnnngggggggg"