Second build - No bypass OR cicuit sound but LED works. HELP?!

[Jdansti]

>        ::::::EDIT::::OH John beat me to it ! haha nice!::::::

Glad you confirmed it, Jim!  I always wonder if I'm steering people the wrong way!

Good catch on the input jack!

[ajstahl]

in my experience, this means something is probably shorting (to ground?) somewhere. check for things touching each other. but in a legal and morally-acceptable way ofc.

check the back of the board for solder bridges & stuff, as no-one can seem to identify any definite offboard wiring problems.

you'll probably find that if you try changing the hot/tip wire to the middle lug (seeing as that now appears to be your new tip), it'll stop working again.

In the last pic  you posted you have your jack wired wrong. See how its seperated in 3 sections, The furthest one down( to the right in the pic) is the jack tip, the middle one is jack ring and the top most one is sleeve.

So from the bottom up it will go Input wire to 3pdt, middle lug will go to battery negative, and last lug will go to the other jacks ground.

Good luck

>        ::::::EDIT::::OH John beat me to it ! haha nice!::::::

Glad you confirmed it, Jim!  I always wonder if I'm steering people the wrong way!

Good catch on the input jack!

AWESOME GUYS!
Currently still at work but i'll give your suggestions a crack as soon as i get home.
Thanks so much for the quick help guys. Legends!

[ajstahl]

In the last pic  you posted you have your jack wired wrong. See how its seperated in 3 sections, The furthest one down( to the right in the pic) is the jack tip, the middle one is jack ring and the top most one is sleeve.

So from the bottom up it will go Input wire to 3pdt, middle lug will go to battery negative, and last lug will go to the other jacks ground.

Good luck

Hey so just confirming, you're saying the red lead (3pdt input) should be on the opposite side of where it is now?

[ajstahl]

OK good news - SHE BYPASSES
Thank you for the heroic observation skills! Eternal gratitude to all of you.

But less then good news, now when effect is on, the led will come on then just hum.
When i turn up the volume pot the hum just gets louder.

Sorry to bug everyone with such trivial little things

[Jdansti]

Have you bought a meter yet?  If not, .

If you're in the US, go to Harbor Freight and pickup a $10 meter (sometimes free with a purchase). If not, make a continuity tester with a battery and lightbulb or LED.



Place your probes on the input and output jack sleeves on the outside of the jacks. This way there's no confusion between which lug is which. You should have continuity.

You can also use the meter to check which lug is which by placing a probe in the outer sleeve and the other on the lugs to see which lug has continuity.

[Mustachio]

Any chance you can take new pictures since you made changes to the power and jacks. I think you had the 3pdt wired correctly before so if you changed something there that could be the problem. So yeah take pics.

Also looking back at the old pics you have up , I think it looks like your missing the jumper in the spot labeled jumper. You can take the clipped end from one of the resistors or what ever you have bend it stick it in there I usually use a lil piece of blue painters tape to hold components and jumpers down while I solder them. So if that jumper is missing pop one in it, the ggg layout calls for it. Looks like you can leave out that one cap like you did but you have to have the jumper. Hopefully that's the last small thing.

Really overall you did great these where just minor things we have all done many many times haha. Also the hum sounds like bad ground ,but looking at the layout that jumper leads to the output so if you don't have a jumper there you will have no output. All it needs is a piece of wire or clipped lead to make connection there and you should be all set!

Good luck!

[ajstahl]

Any chance you can take new pictures since you made changes to the power and jacks. I think you had the 3pdt wired correctly before so if you changed something there that could be the problem. So yeah take pics.

Also looking back at the old pics you have up , I think it looks like your missing the jumper in the spot labeled jumper. You can take the clipped end from one of the resistors or what ever you have bend it stick it in there I usually use a lil piece of blue painters tape to hold components and jumpers down while I solder them. So if that jumper is missing pop one in it, the ggg layout calls for it. Looks like you can leave out that one cap like you did but you have to have the jumper. Hopefully that's the last small thing.

Really overall you did great these where just minor things we have all done many many times haha. Also the hum sounds like bad ground ,but looking at the layout that jumper leads to the output so if you don't have a jumper there you will have no output. All it needs is a piece of wire or clipped lead to make connection there and you should be all set!

Hey the PCB has the jumper already etched in so there's no need to add a wire, but good pick up!
Thanks heaps for the help guys, i'm home from work now so i'll give it another crack now I'll let you know asap!

Good luck!

[ajstahl]

[ajstahl]

[ajstahl]

[Mustachio]

Looks like your still missing the jumper on the board, that will fix the no signal while the pedal is on(I hope, but you do need that jumper there) .

Ok so put in that jumper before you do anything else.

So the only other thing I see thats wrong but it wont affect the actual pedal working is the input jack, the sleeve and ring need to be flip flopped. Like I said it will work the way it is now but if you flip flop them it will work to make a ground connection to the battery when the guitar cable is plugged in. I think this is set up to save battery life. (jack on the left with 3 lugs just switch the black wires with each other)


So yeah get that jumper in there and let us know!

[Jdansti]

In addition to what Jim said, there are some questionable solder joints. It's difficult to tell from the photo but the places with red circles might be solder bridges and the yellow might be poor joints. Make sure the pad and leg are heated sufficiently for the solder to wet all surfaces.



Here's a good video on soldering.

[ajstahl]

In addition to what Jim said, there are some questionable solder joints. It's difficult to tell from the photo but the places with red circles might be solder bridges and the yellow might be poor joints. Make sure the pad and leg are heated sufficiently for the solder to wet all surfaces.



So I re soldered the problem areas and... IT MOSTLY WORKS!
There was no solder bridging, but some of the dodgy cold solders must have been the issue.

Still, the volume pot is working but the fuzz pot won't...
Haha I hope this is the last time I have to bother you guys.

[chromesphere]

Just a tip for future reference ajstahl, you should always test your builds at the pcb level before you wire them up inside an enclosure.  It makes fault diagnosing a lot easier.  in this case you would have been able to seperate offboard wiring issues with PCB issues. 
Anyway just a side note, hope you get it working.  Going to have to build one of these. The shin-ei has been on my build list for too long
Paul

[ajstahl]

I totally agree, should have definitely isolated first.
Haha yes do it! Even without fuzz control at this stage it is still that typical fatty chainsaw fuzz that the original shin ei's pull off. Pure dirt

[Mustachio]

Looking over it more The top 2 red circles John circled for you look to be the biggest problem areas. Are you sure the fuzz pot isn't working, if you wire it up backwards it will work in reverse. Another possibility is that the pot is stuck at one resistance value because the internals are borked.

I tried to trace the pics with my eyes to the ggg layout and along the fuzz pot connections it looks ok I think except for those red circled areas especially the top one. Easiest would be to just heat those areas real fast to melt em away from each other make sure no bridges usually a few swipes away from the bridge cleans it up fast. Try another pot if you have one on hand even if its a diff value it may not give you full range but it might at least tell you if its working.

You should invest in a de-solder pump and a multi meter. I picked up a pretty ok mm(multimeter) that does enough for 2 bucks off ebay (that was with shipping) !

Glad you got it working this far man congrats!

[ajstahl]

Mustachio, I already desolder pumped (is that term even used?) those red circles there but still nothing. I do have spare pots so ill definitely brake them out next time I get a chance.
And just to clarify, the pot doesn't work at all. Nothing happens at all when it's being twisted so it may just be the internals.
Not that I'm complaining. Even on full fuzz mode, it still spits out some super yummy tones

[Jdansti]

Temporarily remove the wire from the center lug of the fuzz pot and touch it to one of the end lugs and then to the other end lug. If the problem is the pot, you'll hear the fuzz go hi/lo as you move the wire from one end lug to the other.

[Mustachio]

Nice John your a Genius! always with the good tips! I never thought of that.

[ajstahl]

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