Help with my fuzz clone

Started by mortem, August 05, 2013, 11:42:54 PM

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mortem

this is the first time i make a pedal, i'm trying to do this http://fuzzcentral.ssguitar.com/fuzzface.php but once i managed to solder everything i had a few problems, the led exploded and the battery is warm, and it doesn't make any sound when is on, the pots doesn't do anything. I wired all like this

The Switch,
lug 1 is to lug 2 on the volume pot.
lug 2 is to -9vc
lug 3 is to pcb input
lug 4 is to input tip
lug 5 is to pcb ground
lug 6 is to output tip
lug 7 and 9 are wired together

The Pcb
#1 to lug 3 of switch
#2 to fuzz pot lug 2
#3 has 4 grounds wired to lug 5 of switch, lug 1 of volume pot, lug 1 of fuzz pot and output sleeve
#4 is -9v 1 for negative led and another to lug 2 switch
#5 lug 3 volume pot
#6 lug 3 fuzz pot

Input jack

the tip goes to switch lug 6
the ring goes to dc tip
the sleeve goes to output sleeve

Output jack

the tip comes from lug 4 of the switch
the sleeve goes to ground of pcb and input sleeve

mistahead

OK - step one just go over everything carefully, it sounds like you've got some shorting somewhere in there, something touching metal it ought not to, or solder bridging a couple of traces...

There's a debugging post in here Stickied up top - that would be the next stop.

Fun stuff - explosions just mean it will be more awesome in the end.

MaxPower

#2
How did you connect the LED? You usually have to add a resistor in series with the LED to limit the current (or is it voltage? damned senility). Check the specs on your LEDs (volts, current) and use Ohm's Law to figure it out, or use one of the LED/resistor calculators available online. Make sure you connect the led right way as well (cathode to negative).

As for the switch. Is it 1,2,3 at one position, 4,5,6 at the second position and 7,8,9 at the third position? If so, the wiring is a mess by the looks of it. If it's 1,4,7 and 2,5,8, and 3,6,9 then at least the bypass should work but position two (2,5,8) looks like you're connecting the + to the - side of the battery. That's why the battery is getting warm and the circuit isn't working.

What lies behind us and what lies before us are tiny matters, compared to what lies within us - Emerson

duck_arse

I'm hopeless at join-the-dots. show us some photos and a circuit diagram.
" I will say no more "

midwayfair

Read here and follow the instructions.

There is specific information everyone needs to debug a circuit. And by following the steps in that post you may find the problem on your own.
My band, Midway Fair: www.midwayfair.org. Myself's music and things I make: www.jonpattonmusic.com. DIY pedal demos: www.youtube.com/jonspatton. PCBs of my Bearhug Compressor and Cardinal Harmonic Tremolo are available from http://www.1776effects.com!

mortem

i did the debug already, i changed the led from position as MaxPower suggested, the battery isn't warm anymore but still not sound coming out, i need help figuring out how to plug volume 1 pot, fuzz 1 pot, output of the pcb to the 3pdt, the grounds and the sleeve of the input, here is the schematic, help please

http://fuzzcentral.ssguitar.com/fuzzface/fuzzfacelayout.png
http://fuzzcentral.ssguitar.com/fuzzface/fuzzfacepnpschematic.gif

MaxPower

As others have said, it's hard to help you without knowing exactly how you have everything wired up. A picture or a drawing or your built circuit showing all your connections would help a lot.

I hope you ignored my previous comment on the switch wiring. Don't know what the hell I was thinking.

Maybe this will help: http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=how+to+wire+3p3t+switch&FORM=HDRSC2&id=617F4EE35E0AF00EDF7FA53B3B959B4922A3AD9A&selectedIndex=6#view=detail&id=617F4EE35E0AF00EDF7F9A3A3655975B9926A3B8&selectedIndex=12
Mind the polarities (most are for +9V and ground, whereas your circuit is -9V and ground).

What lies behind us and what lies before us are tiny matters, compared to what lies within us - Emerson

duck_arse

go here, read all the stuff.

http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/potsecrets/potscret.htm

now look at the first picture of a pot on that page. from the left hand side of the picture, number the lugs 1, 2, 3. use these numbers with the fuzzcentral circuit numbering, and you should be able to work out yr pots.
" I will say no more "

mortem



i did everything, now it makes some kind of sound, but the led isn't working and the battery drains or something in a few seconds

smallbearelec

Hi--

Your drawing is very tough to interpret. At a guess, you have made some mistake in going from schematic to hard-wired layout. This article:

https://www.smallbearelec.com/HowTos/BeginnerArticle/BeginnerDos.htm

covers some basics of how to avoid mistakes in picking a first project. You have hit one of the "land mines," and I would suggest backing up and learning to breadboard. If you want to stick with the Fuzz Face, here's a tutorial:

https://www.smallbearelec.com/HowTos/BreadboardSiFF/BreadboardSiFF.htm

Regards
SD

MaxPower

Well, the switch looks fine as far as I can tell, but I'm no authority on 3pdt switches....

Make sure the diode is oriented the right way (cathode to ground). Double check the polarized capacitors as well.

What lies behind us and what lies before us are tiny matters, compared to what lies within us - Emerson

deadastronaut

https://www.youtube.com/user/100roberthenry
https://deadastronaut.wixsite.com/effects

chasm reverb/tremshifter/faze filter/abductor II delay/timestream reverb/dreamtime delay/skinwalker hi gain dist/black triangle OD/ nano drums/space patrol fuzz//

Focalized

In your drawing the double connection at the switch where the volume 2 connects shouldn't be like that.

mortem

Quote from: Focalized on August 11, 2013, 12:48:28 PM
In your drawing the double connection at the switch where the volume 2 connects shouldn't be like that.
how it should go?

when i test the 9v battery it says 5.55 v and if i plug it in the pedal i can not measure any voltage, only the volume pot works, but in works both in bypass and when it's on the fuzz pot do nothing

Focalized

I don't know if its your problem but the lug 2 from the volume just needs to have the one connection to the switch.

mortem

i removed the wire and also checked the diode and the capacitors, they are oriented well, checked twice the continuity but still don't get power on the pedal with the 9v battery, any idea?

mortem

i replaced the battery and measured the voltages

1.What does it do, not do, and sound like? works fine on bypass, do a lot of noise when is on, the led is off and fuzz pot do nothing
2.Name of the circuit = Dallas arbiter fuzz face
3.Source of the circuit (URL of schematic or project) = http://fuzzcentral.ssguitar.com/fuzzface.php
4.Any modifications to the circuit? N
5.Any parts substitutions? 2N4920 transistors, T63XB103KT20 trimpot
6.Positive ground to negative ground conversion? N
Voltage at the circuit board end of the red battery lead = 9.08 V
Voltage at the circuit board end of the black battery lead = 0 V

Q1
C = 9.08
B = 9.0
E = 9.08

Q2
C= 9.08
B= 9.06
E= 9.08

D1
A = 9.08
K = 9.06

also i noticed that the voltage at the input of the pcb varies and one pin of the trimpot don't measure any voltage

smallbearelec

Quote from: mortem on August 11, 2013, 09:55:56 PM
Q1
C = 9.08
B = 9.0
E = 9.08

Q2
C= 9.08
B= 9.06
E= 9.08

D1
A = 9.08
K = 9.06

Something is wired Very wrong. Please unsolder the components and find a Vetted, Verified Layout for the FF. Follow that religiously, test all the connections for correctness and continuity, and then do straight-through wiring--no stomp switch, no power jack. You need to crawl before you can walk.

MaxPower

Yeah, something is very wrong. You shouldn't be getting 9V readings on both ends of the diode. If you're measuring from ground, one end of the diode should give 0.0 Volts since it's connected to ground. The same with the emitter of Q1. All the transistor pins shouldn't be at 9V (none should be I would think). It could be one or more bad solder joints. It could be a defective PCB  (one or more traces are bad). Could be other things....

If you have a breadboard or a perfboard I would recommend building the schematic version without the mods, led, or switch. Once you get that working then you can start adding the extras and mods. (pretty much what smallbear recommended)

If this is getting extremely frustrating take a break and take a look at the Tweak-O at smallbear's website: https://www.smallbearelec.com/Projects/TweakO/TweakO.htm Very detailed build instructions and I can verify that it works as I've built it. If there are any inconsistencies between the schematic and perfboard layout, go with the schematic.

What lies behind us and what lies before us are tiny matters, compared to what lies within us - Emerson

MaxPower

#19
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What lies behind us and what lies before us are tiny matters, compared to what lies within us - Emerson