Newbie help! G2D Cream-Tone project.

[Jarrettbailey]

Hey guys-

This is only my second post here and I could use your help. I found the layout for this OD at www.tagboardeffects.blogspot.com and I am interested in trying my hand at it. I have modded a few pedals before, and solder pretty well, but never built one ground up and never used a layout like this. I posted on the forum there, but thought I'd post here too and get answers to a few questions. Here's my post from that page:


Hey guys-

I am brand new to effect building, but I'd like to start with this Cream-Tone effect. I looked at the layout and here is a list of components I put together:

Resistors

1K - 7
1M - 2
47K - 1
10K - 6
100K - 2
4K7 - 2
22K - 3
6K8 - 1

Capacitors

2u2 - 4
22u - 1
220u - 1
6n8 - 3
22n - 2
220n - 1
47p - 1
680p - 3

IC

TL074
TL072

Diodes

1N4148 - 2

And I need 2 DPDT switches with LEDs, 4 10K Lin pots, and two jacks? Is that complete? Also, do the voltages of resistors matter? What voltage am I looking for if so. And, as far as offobard wiring, do I wire it like the dual effect example given in the "Offboard" section.

So any help you guys could throw out would be great, and hopefully, if I ever get the hang of this, I can help someone out later too.

Thanks

J

Link to creamtone layout - http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2013/06/g2d-cream-tone.html?m=1

[smallbearelec]

Hi--

Please check out my Beginner Dos and Dont's:

https://www.smallbearelec.com/HowTos/BeginnerArticle/BeginnerDos.htm

The layout you picked has more components and stages than I would suggest for a first build, and you would need help with interpreting the parts list to select components. Find a build on one of the DIY sites that has more documentation, and you're more likely to have a happy first experience.

[JustinFun]

Resistors should be 1/4 watt, carbon film or metal film. Caps 16v or more, use electrolytics for the uf values, ceramics for the pf values and either ceramic or film for the nf values.

Seriously though, if this is your first stompbox build, don't  do it until you've built 2 or three simpler things first otherwise you're pretty unlikely to get it working!

I'd recommend starting with a simple booster - the Super Hard On has a low parts count and sounds great, there's a layout on the same site:

http://www.tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/zvex-super-hard-on-compact-layout.html

Next, if you want an overdrive how about the lovepedal eternity?

http://www.tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2012/02/lovepedal-eternity.html

Once you've built, debugged and boxed a couple of simpler builds the G2D won't be as bad.

Re other parts - don't forget a battery snap and/or 9v socket.

If you want LEDs for on/off and for boost, you'll need one DPDT for the boost and one 3pdt for the bypass. You just wire the boost switch as per the vero and then bypass the whole effect as per usual true bypass switching (there are a number of threads here showing that).

Don't forget to add a current limiting resistor of 1-5k to the LED switching though.

[GoranP]

that creamtone was going to be my next build when i return from my vacation, i just need to check my stash to see if im missing any parts.
now, others have pretty much covered all the bases. i frequent that forum quite a bit and i can tell you that Mark and Miro's layouts are great. ive built at least couple of dozen and they all worked out just fine. some snafus along the way but all entirely my fault.
truth be told, while starting off with a few simple builds makes all the sense in the world, i say if your heart is dead set on the creamtone and you have no immediate needs for a booster, go for it. especially if you are handy with a soldering iron and have some experience with electronics. my first ever vero build was a wampler black 65 from that site and it fired right up.
unless the build has some funky business going on (like a lfo), bigger builds are just bigger than the small ones. nothing inherently more difficult, it just takes more time and concentration. sometimes transistors need biasing but that's usually covered in the build comments.
at the end of the day, if you build it and it doesnt work (plenty of people both there and here that would help with troubleshooting), you can always chalk it up to school of hard knocks, put it aside and revisit troubleshooting a bit down the line when you have more experience.
bottom line, go for it! if you need any help feel free to pm me for any/all handholding you might need.

[GoranP]

@JB: ive just answered part of your concerns over there, feel free to ask away. i dont see any problems that would keep you from successfully completing this pedal. you might want to stay away from 1590b if this is your first boxing, with 4 pots and 2 footswitches that may be too stressful. it'll make a nice 1590bb pedal.

[Jarrettbailey]

Wow! Thanks for the support and quick responses guys! I've always been a heads up kinda guy! The first cab that I built was a ripoff of a Swart cabinet because I loved the clean tweed covering they did. First effort turned out great!! But like proposed, if I bite off more than I can chew, I'll "back up and punt" as my dad says. Don't be surprised if I take you up on the "handholding" either. It's nice to have nice folks help you through something new. Again, thanks and I'll keep you all posted on the build. Oh and thanks for answering questions on the other forum too. Much appreciated!

[GoranP]

no sweat, man!
i'll be building it pretty soon anyways, bring it on!

[smallbearelec]

i dont see any problems that would keep you from successfully completing this pedal.

The biggest issue I have is  that the chance of a mistake rises exponentially with the number of parts. As you say, however, the OP can get help here.

you might want to stay away from 1590b if this is your first boxing, with 4 pots and 2 footswitches that may be too stressful. it'll make a nice 1590bb pedal.

Yes! Thanks for contributing an item that I just added to my collection of "Beginner Don'ts"! The layout notes do not nearly always mention this issue, and one of the most common beginner issues that you see here is: "It works outside the box, but the signal goes away when I put it in the enclosure..."

[Jarrettbailey]

Well, out of curiosity and as a newbie question, why would a circuit work outside the enclosure and then not work once installed? Components grounding out? Which brings up another question, I've seen nylon spacers on switches (assuming that is so the switch won't ground to the casing somehow?) are there other measures to take to prevent this?

[pappasmurfsharem]

Well, out of curiosity and as a newbie question, why would a circuit work outside the enclosure and then not work once installed? Components grounding out? Which brings up another question, I've seen nylon spacers on switches (assuming that is so the switch won't ground to the casing somehow?) are there other measures to take to prevent this?

Nah the top casing of the switch would touch the inner enclosure anyway.

Basically following good wiring diagrams is a good help when starting out. Making sure the cut off leads from the board aren't touching the enclosure.

My favorite wiring diagram is this one

http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/thoughts/wiring-up-a-1590b/

[smallbearelec]

Well, out of curiosity and as a newbie question, why would a circuit work outside the enclosure and then not work once installed? Components grounding out?

From the exchanges I have seen here, more commonly the process of "scrunching" the board into place opens up dodgy soldered connections, or a connection on the soldered side of the board shorts to the case or to an off-board contact on a pot, jack or switch. This is why I harp on careful planning of the layout and using a large enough enclosure:

https://www.smallbearelec.com/Projects/UrsaMinor/Fig55.jpg

[GoranP]

you might want to stay away from 1590b if this is your first boxing, with 4 pots and 2 footswitches that may be too stressful. it'll make a nice 1590bb pedal.

Yes! Thanks for contributing an item that I just added to my collection of "Beginner Don'ts"! The layout notes do not nearly always mention this issue, and one of the most common beginner issues that you see here is: "It works outside the box, but the signal goes away when I put it in the enclosure..."

lol you are right, Steve! it's very tempting to stuff things into small enclosures but it really takes a bit of skill and experience. my second ever vero build was a four-knob zendrive and boy did i have a hard time stuffing it into a 1590b. today i could do it with one hand tied behind my back but back then it turned into quite a spaghetti nightmare. good offboard wiring planning is crucial in tighter builds but one gets the hang of it pretty quickly.

[GoranP]

The biggest issue I have is  that the chance of a mistake rises exponentially with the number of parts. As you say, however, the OP can get help here.

i hear you and in principle i agree but the OP seems to be quite levelheaded and can probably be smart about it and take it slow.
also, it's a 2 ic board, not a lovetone or a moogerfooger i think between a couple of dozens of us here, we can get him through it eventually...

[Jarrettbailey]

Thanks for all the info guys! I really dig the 1590B wiring diagram too. Haven't decided on an enclosure just yet, but I appreciate all the help so far. I intend on taking it slow and doing it right. I thumbed through a thread where posters shared pictures of their "ugliest" builds. It's been eye opening...