BOSS HM-2

[nofarewell]

Heyyyy everyone!

I'm a beginner ver much, hence I beg you to give me as much detail (if you can, a full board/layout) to this magnificent pedal!
PTP is best because I don't plan it to be on a pcb.
So please guys help as much as you can on how to build a Boss HM-2. No I don't want to buy it.
I live in a 230 V zone.
THANKS VEERY MUCH

[Mark Hammer]

I have one, and while I don't find it especially inspiring, it may do something useful for you.

You can simplify the build a great deal by leaving out the electronic switching portions and all the support circuitry for that.  So, referring to this diagram - http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/s/hm2-heavy-metal.php - everything after the LEVEL control is not required, everything from Q2 on is not required, and neither is the circuitry around Q8 and Q9.  You won't need C4, R11, R16 or Q4, and can go directly from Q1 to C6.

In the stock HM-2, the HIGH control adjusts two gyrator sections (IC2a and IC2b).  You can get more tonal control by connecting C29 to its own 10k pot, in exactly the same way you see done with the others.  Naturally, C29 must be disconnected from C28 and VR3.

Another worthwhile modification is to use a SPST toggle switch to bypass D6/D7.  Those diodes produce "crossover distortion" - clipping the "sides" of the wave instead of the peaks.  Crossover distortion sounds very good on bridge pickups, but to my ears not so good on neck pickups.  So, being able to remove it temporarily is good.  Those diodes should be something with a low forward voltage, such as germanium or Schottky diodes.  Silicon diodes will eat up too much signal.

[nofarewell]

Thank you very much for your answer!
There is another schem, maybe it indicates the simplified design?:
http://www.freeinfosociety.com/electronics/schematics/audio/pictures/bosshm2.gif
Can you tell me your opinion on this?
I have limited experience about schems.

[slacker]

I'm working on vero/strip board layout for that schematic. I'll post it here when it's finished.

[nofarewell]

Man...it would me MUCH appreciated... Please send me too if you can to
nofarewell@gmail.com
THANK YOU

[GodSaveMetal]

I`m from Perú, i have made a clone exactly of the real HM2, except the ICs; I use the NJM4560L; and is great my personal layout is this:

It´s made as the original, I made my own case, plexiglass 2mm thickness; clear, I paint it with acrilic wather based paint, convered with transparent resin; this is the previus result; the PCB layout:



The case, before painting:



The case, after painting:


Final result:


i love how it´s shine!!!!!!!!!!

SHERRRS!!!!!!!!!!!!

[nofarewell]

Wow man that's so beautiful and though electrically I can't really trace it, sadly not on that level yet, wpuld be more stoked about the vero/strip board, this is one of the most beautiful pedals I've ever seen and you made a perfect work! Entombed/Dismember forever! ;-)))

[nofarewell]

Oh and a question: how much are Watt values of the resistors? Thanks

[Mark Hammer]

1/8 or 1/4W are fine.

[nofarewell]

Cool thanks

[Quackzed]

wow! nice job on the case! thats pretty sick !

[GodSaveMetal]

wow! nice job on the case! thats pretty sick !

THANKS!!!! I have to clone all the NEGRITOS de BOSS, here is my HM2 close to MY HM3 before painting; the BLACK + ORANGE KNOBS HM2, the BLACK+YELLOW KNOBS HM3:




Well next time I WILL cloned a MT2; and all If I can; the BOSS analog pedals; that ever have to be, or the BOSS members don´t wana to do or reissued; all in his original cases, made in plexiglass!!!!!!!

SHERRRS!!!!!!!!

[duck_arse]

boy-oh-boy, I've done some stupid stuff with perspex in my time, but yr boxes really take the cake! all that time and effort, and then you PAINT THEM? that ain't right. freak some people out with clear boss boxes.

do you ever get perspex rash? I always get it in my clothes, stays with me for days.

[GodSaveMetal]

boy-oh-boy, I've done some stupid stuff with perspex in my time, but yr boxes really take the cake! all that time and effort, and then you PAINT THEM? that ain't right. freak some people out with clear boss boxes.

do you ever get perspex rash? I always get it in my clothes, stays with me for days.

I´M thinking really to make a transparent distortion with that boxes I made with plexiglass, realy??? you wana??? godness !!!

I have paint it to make a clone exactrly the origina, that is my purpose, not to have a tranlucent or transparent one!!!!!!!!!! my my!!!! all wana see a translucnet distortion let me decide wath of the unverse of distortion I have do, what will be transparent, perhaphs the ZOOM TM01 umm ummm that a realy interesting HIGH gain distortion I ever clone!!! it is amazing!!!!!!!!

[duck_arse]

how do you cut and shape the plexi/persp/lexan/acrylic? what do you use to glue? I thort perspex would be the best ever fuzzbox about 20 years ago, but had no idea how to do it. looking at your unpainted, I still think it's the best idea for cases.

[GodSaveMetal]

how do you cut and shape the plexi/persp/lexan/acrylic? what do you use to glue? I thort perspex would be the best ever fuzzbox about 20 years ago, but had no idea how to do it. looking at your unpainted, I still think it's the best idea for cases.

GOODNESS!!! you are the number 1,000,............ that agree to more and more funs of transparent plexi pedals!!!!!!!!!!!! woww!!!!
it is easy whit a cutter; new blade ehehmmmmm!!! you cut a trace linear trace, and push down the rest, of course in a plain table with a plane edge ok

The glue I use, IN PERÚ; it is easy to found CLOROFORM!!! the person who sales the plexi, sales CLOROFORM; is fantastic to glue with it; in secons you have glued all!!!!! if you don´t wana use that; you will use all acrilic glue; METHACRILATED glue that bond in seconds.

You may rounded the borders, the faces of the case, and finaly you will paint it, I use acrilyc wather base paint, with a brush or a AIR BRUSH you will have excelents results, I make a finaly presentation with a acrilyc surface, it cristalyce in 24 hours, side by side; totaly 5 days for cristalyced, it´s wonderfull final mirrow surface!!!!!!!

You have to be patient and be extremely exigent; I do; with you final presentations.

[greaser_au]

how do you cut and shape the plexi/persp/lexan/acrylic? what do you use to glue? I thort perspex would be the best ever fuzzbox about 20 years ago, but had no idea how to do it. looking at your unpainted, I still think it's the best idea for cases.

Back when I was working for the amusements mob, we used IPS Weld-on products:
'Weld-on 16' which was an acrylic solvent cement with some acrylic dissolved in it to make a syrupy glue (able to act as a filler for less-than-perfect hand tool work); and,
'Weld-on 3' which was water-thin which could be used to repair cracks & joint properly finished edges.
These are harder (probably just more expensive) to get down under - so the plastics fabricator/supplier (City Plastics at Brompton, SA) I use now gets Australian equivalents from ATA:
Acri-bond 105 (the water thin one)
Acri-bond 110 (limited gap filling capability)

These solvent glues are all mostly methylene chloride (dichloromethane)- so are part of the same family as chloroform  - we used CF in plastics at highschool to weld acrylic, but I have never seen it at 'retail' here, even DCM is now much harder to buy than it was- we used to use it to clean PCBs & deglaze rubber platens for printers/typewriters.

As commonsense suggests, these things are all pretty nasty and should only be used with adequate ventilation and be kept away from the skin.

david

[duck_arse]

I used to put polystyrene moulding powder in toluene to make cement when I was pretending to make styrene boxes. got washing machine lids from where I worked, with all the other dangerous stuff, cut em all into small pieces.

don't I think I've ever been exigent. I used to cut perspex w/ a jigsaw and a plunge router. not only messy and inaccurate, but also loud and dangerous.

[greaser_au]

don't I think I've ever been exigent. I used to cut perspex w/ a jigsaw and a plunge router. not only messy and inaccurate, but also loud and dangerous.

I don't see why one couldn't do completely accurate work with these sort of tools - may need a jig or two...   

david

[nofarewell]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-1vcuKcXeI

;-)))