FV-1 Multi effect full forum project ready to go. (ShimmerVerb Also)

[Ice-9]

Yeah the Pickit2 or clone is perfect. NOTE- Pickit3 cannot program the EEPROM.

[Digital Larry]

I don't know about you but I'm finding it harder to locate PICKit 2 clones from China on eBay.  I saw one listing that had a PICKit2, PICKit3, and something else all for about 5 dollars, which seems ridiculous.  I have one already so it's not a huge deal, but wondering about how people just getting into this are going to manage.

[free electron]

Haven't tested it myself, but apparently the cheap CH341A programmer will burn 24 series eeproms:

[iforgot]

I don't know about you but I'm finding it harder to locate PICKit 2 clones from China on eBay.  I saw one listing that had a PICKit2, PICKit3, and something else all for about 5 dollars, which seems ridiculous.  I have one already so it's not a huge deal, but wondering about how people just getting into this are going to manage.

Thanks all for the replies!

Digital Larry:  I'm finding cheap postings for PICKit2 like the following on ebay, are you finding the same?  Do there seem to be issues with these? (I know the sellers say PICKit2, but perhaps there's something off that I'm not noticing.)

-  http://www.ebay.com/itm/PICkit2-PIC-KIT-PIC-Debugger-Programmer-Emulator-ICSP-for-FLASH-ROM-EEPROM-/192046172762?epid=519488197&hash=item2cb6d80a5a:g:GRIAAOSwhQhY2NcL

- http://www.ebay.com/itm/microcontrollers-PICkit2-PIC-KIT2-debugger-programmer-for-PIC24-PIC32-PIC-dsPIC-/201325676677?hash=item2edff20885:g:RI0AAOSw~AVYnSIL

- http://www.ebay.com/itm/Enhanced-Microchip-PIC-Emulator-PICKit2-Programmer-USB-Cable-ICSP-Cable/281984439576?_trksid=p2045573.c100506.m3226&_trkparms=aid%3D555014%26algo%3DPL.DEFAULT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D41375%26meid%3Dc7b80b38fbd64d988608497273397dde%26pid%3D100506%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26

[Digital Larry]

Well don't take my statement too seriously, it's not like I am quality control on Chinese PICKit 2.  That looks similar to one of the ones I have. 

One issue that I "think" I had was that the programming output of the unit I got does not switch to 3.3 volts, even though there appears to be a command line parameter of the software to make it do so.  You can add a 3.3 volt zener and current limiting resistor, but that is added complexity that one would hope to avoid.  I did not blow up my pedal using it this way but it does make me a little nervous and reluctant to recommend any specific device because you might not be so lucky.

[Ice-9]

Well don't take my statement too seriously, it's not like I am quality control on Chinese PICKit 2.  That looks similar to one of the ones I have. 

One issue that I "think" I had was that the programming output of the unit I got does not switch to 3.3 volts, even though there appears to be a command line parameter of the software to make it do so.  You can add a 3.3 volt zener and current limiting resistor, but that is added complexity that one would hope to avoid.  I did not blow up my pedal using it this way but it does make me a little nervous and reluctant to recommend any specific device because you might not be so lucky.

I hear what you mean about this, all my later PCB's have the program port routed a little different, the +v power pad that connects to the Pickit2 or similar now routes to the input side of the 3.3v reg on board the PSU so that no matter what programmer voltage is selected the FV-1 chip should never see the wrong voltage.

[Tuff Pedals]

taudio,

I would appreciate a guide too

Thanks !

OK -- I'll start work on one. It will probably take a couple of weeks to complete.

Hi taudio ,


How's the guide coming along

Thanks daz

[Ice-9]

Sorry everyone, it looks like this thread and all my pictures in other threads  have been hit by the 'Photobucket Conspiracy' and they are all gone from the forum.

[Tuff Pedals]

Noooooooooooooooooooo !!! Thats terrible , photobucket should be ashamed of themselves , I guess they need to make money but $399 per year is outrageous!. Not sure I'll get to build this now! - booo photo bucket booo     

[potul]

Oh noo!!!!

This week I received my parts and I was planning to start building it. Damn!

This guys are really hijacking your images and asking for a 399$ ransom... crazy

[Tuff Pedals]

I'm hoping that some kind soul will put together a build guide , it would be a shame for this resource to end like this after all the effort Mick has put into sharing this project and everyone else who has contributed to this thread!

My fingers are crossed!

[potul]

Hi All

I've re-read all posts in the long thread, but I can't find the PIC program already compiled in HEX format. Does anyone have it?

I have the source code but I have a new PC and I'm lazy to install MPLAB at the moment... I was hoping to get the HEX ready for programming.

Mat

[potul]

Hi All

I've re-read all posts in the long thread, but I can't find the PIC program already compiled in HEX format. Does anyone have it?

I have the source code but I have a new PC and I'm lazy to install MPLAB at the moment... I was hoping to get the HEX ready for programming.

Mat

Forget it... I already compiled it myself... I have a VM with windows XP and MPLAB installed I could use.

On the other hand... I know it's a stupid question, but how do you connect the PIC to the programmer? I mean, physically. I've never programmed an SMD devide outside of the PCB, and I have no clue how to make the connections needed between the PIC and the programmer. Alligator clips are too big.. Maybe solderig temp cables? But I want to be sure later on I'm able to solder it correctly to the pcb, so I'm hesitating to do this.

Any advise on how to program the bloody PIC?

[potul]

I ended up placing an order for one of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SOIC8-SOP8-to-DIP8-EZ-Programmer-Adapter-Socket-Converter-Module-150mil-/140938311821?epid=622203825&hash=item20d093f88d:g:VnoAAOSwZVlXlzL9



But... as I don't want to wait, I did a dirty connection by soldering some cables to the PIC, and I was able to program it successfully. My only concern is if after this, and removing the cables I will be able to solder it properly to the PCB.
Specially taking into account that my SMD soldering skills are unexisting....

Now I have to sit and wait for my FV-1 to reach the mailbox.

Mat

[Ice-9]

I ended up placing an order for one of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SOIC8-SOP8-to-DIP8-EZ-Programmer-Adapter-Socket-Converter-Module-150mil-/140938311821?epid=622203825&hash=item20d093f88d:g:VnoAAOSwZVlXlzL9



But... as I don't want to wait, I did a dirty connection by soldering some cables to the PIC, and I was able to program it successfully. My only concern is if after this, and removing the cables I will be able to solder it properly to the PCB.
Specially taking into account that my SMD soldering skills are unexisting....

Now I have to sit and wait for my FV-1 to reach the mailbox.

Mat

Quick and dirty or soic8 test socket, both work just as well, test socket is better for other stuff as well 

[potul]

Ok, some small progress today, but big for me.
This is my first SMD job so far. It looks good,... but I wonder if I fried anything during soldering (I used hot air gun and solder paste, and really had to apply heat for a long time for the paste to melt...)



Later this week I will start to populate the rest of the components. Can I trust this BOM in page 6 for parts numbering?

R1   = 100K          C1   = 100uf electro
R2   = 33 Ohm         C2   = 10uf electro
R3   = 47K         C3   = 100nf
R4   = 47K         C4   = 10uf electro
R5   = 1M                 C5   = 100nf
R6   = Fit jumper wire       C6   = 1uf 16v electro
R7   = 470K         C7   = 1nf
R8   = 1K                 C8   = 1uf 16v electro
R9    = 1K                 C9   = Not Fitted
R10   = 1K                 C10   = Not Fitted
R11   = Not Fitted      C11   = 10uf electro
R12   = Fit jumper wire   C12   = 1uf electro
R13   = 1K                 C13   = 47pf ceramic
R14   = Fit jumper wire   C14   = 100n
R15   = 100K         C15   = 1uf electro
R16   = 100 Ohm
R17   = 10K     
R22   = 4K7 (LED current resistor)   X1   =32.768khz Watch Crystal
Rx   = 100K

VR1   = 50Kb                         TR1   = IRFD9024
VR2   = 50Kb                         D1   = BZX55c 10v Zenner
VR3   = 50Kb                         Reg   = 78L33 (3.3v regulator)
VR4   = 50Kb (or switch assembly)   IC1   = TL072
                                    IC2   = 24LC32A Eeprom SOIC
SW1   = 3PDT Footswitch              IC3   = FV-1 Reverb
JK1,2   = Stereo PCB mount                    IC4   = PIC12F683
      Jack socket                      LED   = 5mm Red led

[Ice-9]

Ok, some small progress today, but big for me.
This is my first SMD job so far. It looks good,... but I wonder if I fried anything during soldering (I used hot air gun and solder paste, and really had to apply heat for a long time for the paste to melt...)



Later this week I will start to populate the rest of the components. Can I trust this BOM in page 6 for parts numbering?

R1   = 100K          C1   = 100uf electro
R2   = 33 Ohm         C2   = 10uf electro
R3   = 47K         C3   = 100nf
R4   = 47K         C4   = 10uf electro
R5   = 1M                 C5   = 100nf
R6   = Fit jumper wire       C6   = 1uf 16v electro
R7   = 470K         C7   = 1nf
R8   = 1K                 C8   = 1uf 16v electro
R9    = 1K                 C9   = Not Fitted
R10   = 1K                 C10   = Not Fitted
R11   = Not Fitted      C11   = 10uf electro
R12   = Fit jumper wire   C12   = 1uf electro
R13   = 1K                 C13   = 47pf ceramic
R14   = Fit jumper wire   C14   = 100n
R15   = 100K         C15   = 1uf electro
R16   = 100 Ohm
R17   = 10K     
R22   = 4K7 (LED current resistor)   X1   =32.768khz Watch Crystal
Rx   = 100K

VR1   = 50Kb                         TR1   = IRFD9024
VR2   = 50Kb                         D1   = BZX55c 10v Zenner
VR3   = 50Kb                         Reg   = 78L33 (3.3v regulator)
VR4   = 50Kb (or switch assembly)   IC1   = TL072
                                    IC2   = 24LC32A Eeprom SOIC
SW1   = 3PDT Footswitch              IC3   = FV-1 Reverb
JK1,2   = Stereo PCB mount                    IC4   = PIC12F683
      Jack socket                      LED   = 5mm Red led

SMD is looking good, parts list sub R2 33R with a jumper. I will have a look to see if I can replace the schematic and layout pictures that have gone due to Photobucket.

[cliffsp8]

Download with schematic still available from link in post #252, page 13 of this thread

[potul]

Ah thanks...

for some reason I had downloaded the rar file and never realized there was the schematic in there...

This will make it easier.

Mat

[potul]

Quick question... as this is not in the schematic

In the PCB, at what voltage is the LED powered? is it getting the full 9v or 3.3v?  I need this in order to decide the limiting resistor value... (I assume it's getting the 9v, just want to double check)

Mat