Quick question: Iron temperature?

[Jopn]

What temp do you guys normally run your soldering irons?  I think mine (digital) defaulted to 650F and I've been using that without any problems.  But I've always been curious if that would be considered higher than normal.

[GGBB]

What temp do you guys normally run your soldering irons?  I think mine (digital) defaulted to 650F and I've been using that without any problems.  But I've always been curious if that would be considered higher than normal.

There was a related post recently: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=104192.msg932579#msg932579

So 650 is probably good.  I was using 650 for a while, but I've switched back to my station's default 750 and that seems to work better for me - but the station is new and I'm still playing around with the temp.  I'm interested in what others use too.

[duck_arse]

I've always used a #7 in my weller, but don't know the temp. it has always seemed just a little slow to my liking, but a #8 is usually way too fast, except with a big-ended bit/ large joint.

[Jopn]

Awesome, thanks!

[pickdropper]

I usually solder at 720.  I bump to 810 when tinning Litz wire and occasionally bump it down to 660 if I am concerned about heat.

But 720 usually works fine.  I do minimize dwell time as much a possible.

[pappasmurfsharem]

I usually solder at 720.  I bump to 810 when tinning Litz wire and occasionally bump it down to 660 if I am concerned about heat.

But 720 usually works fine.  I do minimize dwell time as much a possible.

I use around 320 on my cheap soldering station.

Seems fast enough to me.

[merlinb]

I always turn mine to the hottest it will go. Same with cooking. I am real man.

[pickdropper]

I usually solder at 720.  I bump to 810 when tinning Litz wire and occasionally bump it down to 660 if I am concerned about heat.

But 720 usually works fine.  I do minimize dwell time as much a possible.

I use around 320 on my cheap soldering station.

Seems fast enough to me.

Are you in Celsius or Fahrenheit?  I was posting F, but I assume yours is in C.

[pappasmurfsharem]

I usually solder at 720.  I bump to 810 when tinning Litz wire and occasionally bump it down to 660 if I am concerned about heat.

But 720 usually works fine.  I do minimize dwell time as much a possible.

I use around 320 on my cheap soldering station.

Seems fast enough to me.

Are you in Celsius or Fahrenheit?  I was posting F, but I assume yours is in C.

Yes Celsius, that what My cheap $16 Stahl says on it anyway. That makes more sense now. I was thinking WTH is wrong with you people!

I have this one $16 preshipping
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=374-100

Its been kicking ass for over a year now. Same tip. Still flows solder perfectly.

[Kipper4]

I have mine set for 355 degrees in English money

[thelonious]

I use an Aoyue 937+ and usually run it around 374C (~705F). After reading this thread I'm thinking about running it hotter...

[PRR]

Mine glows in a dark room.

[J0K3RX]

I always set mine as high as it will go... you can get in and out fast, the less dwell time you spend on the solder joint/component the better. If you barely warm up the body of the component you are doing good. Speed + accuracy + good flow = good solder

[greaser_au]

I've always used a #7 in my weller, but don't know the temp. it has always seemed just a little slow to my liking, but a #8 is usually way too fast, except with a big-ended bit/ large joint.

The  Weller 'fixed' temperature controlled irons (WTCPN, W61D) make use of a bizarre phenomenon where a magnetic alloy loses it's magentism at a particular temperature (the Curie point). A magentic slug on the back of the tip holds a switch in the on position, and at the Curie temperature it releases the switch, turning off the heater  (I know you know how this works, DA, - I think you said you already had to change a switch-  I've  just put it here for completeness for other readers' sake  ). The #7 tip's magnetic slug reaches it's Curie point at 700F (=371C), and the #8 is  800F (=426C).  The #7 is fine for all regular (Sn/Pb) 60/40 or 63/37 work.  I had to use  the #8  with 40/60 (used for the 'back' side joints on pins that would be later be soldered to after the board was mounted). I have used a #6 once or twice  in anger

Unlike other things in life, it IS ALL about the size - correct tip mass is important.   The heater is there to heat the tip - not the joint- and if the tip at proper temperature cannot melt the solder on the joint withing a couple of seconds,  the tip is just too small.  Some will wind up the temperature, and this works to a degree (groan) - but only in that it makes some extra joules available temporarily.  Consistently too hot and the tin boils off very quickly - creating a leady joint that is much harder to solder. It eats tips like crazy, too.  Soldering PCB like this will increase the overcuring of the glue that holds the tracks on and the failure rate will be much higher.

david

[amptramp]

Mine glows in a dark room.

Is that the polystyrene cap setting?

[duck_arse]

greaser, if I had to use a #6, I'd be angry too.

I had a switch would stick off. no prob, sniff to see if it's hot, give a tap on the bench, away we go.

I've seen this happen .......

Posted by: PRR
Insert Quote
Mine glows in a dark room.

I had a mate whose switch stuck on, we were in his front room wondering what the smell was, followed it to the back room to see his weller glowing red hot. it needed a new switch.

[trixdropd]

420C, It's just a great number