Clear coating and water slide decals

[estch71]

Quick question.  I applied some decals to a pedal I built (after painting and doing two coats of clear coat) and noticed that even though I used the clear decal paper, there are raised edges around the graphics.  Will several coats of the clear coat help to level this out?

[GGBB]

If you mean that the edges of the decal have lifted up, then my experience has been that this happens when you apply too thick a layer of clear coat over the decal.  In this situation, applying more won't help.  Again, that's based on my experiences, so other experiences may vary.

[Pettol]

I never liked decals for that reason.

I'd try a couple of mist layers.

[davent]

Multiple, thats MULTIPLE light coats of clear then wet sanding with 600grit will eventually level edges out.  After the first wet sanding, (go very light with the initial sanding), you'll see shiny and matt looking areas, the shiny areas are still low so more coats then sand again, repeat cycle until the entire surface appears matt, things are level. Last time i used decals took 12 coats of lacquer until i reached level. Applied with an airbrush so the coats are very thin, spray can- you won't need so many coats.

Between leveling the paint job and the decals, 40 coats of clear sanding sealer and lacquer. Black legending is the decal.

[estch71]

Absolutely forgot about the sanding.  I took some 600 grit sandpaper and gave it a buffing to smooth out the edges.  Totally worked!  I'll do this a few more times, per your suggestion. 

Thanks!

[chromesphere]

I found raised edges occur with inkjet waterslides becuase of the extra clearcoat layers on the decal (i think someone already said that).  Laser decals dont need the clearcoat layer and thus dont have the raised edge problem.

[GGBB]

Laser decals dont need the clearcoat layer and thus dont have the raised edge problem.

Which laser waterslide decals are those?  All the ones I know about need clearcoat to make them transparent, just like the inkjet decals.

[chromesphere]

Laser decals dont need the clearcoat layer and thus dont have the raised edge problem.

Which laser waterslide decals are those?  All the ones I know about need clearcoat to make them transparent, just like the inkjet decals.

Make them transparent  The waterslides I get come in 2 types, transparent and white.  Then there are 'inkjet' waterslides or 'laser' waterslides.  Inkjets need clearcoat.  Lasers don't because laser toner doesn't dissolve in water.

Not adding that layer of clearcoat to the waterslide makes for a dead flat face on your pedal, not risen edge at all.  if you've held a laser waterslide without the backing, they are very thin.  Like....skin or something.

Paul

[GGBB]

Make them transparent  The waterslides I get come in 2 types, transparent and white.  Then there are 'inkjet' waterslides or 'laser' waterslides.  Inkjets need clearcoat.  Lasers don't because laser toner doesn't dissolve in water.

Not adding that layer of clearcoat to the waterslide makes for a dead flat face on your pedal, not risen edge at all.  if you've held a laser waterslide without the backing, they are very thin.  Like....skin or something.

Paul

Well apparently I have been in the dark for some time    I print with a laser, but I've been using up my stock of Lazertran inkjet paper.  This stuff dries white and you have to clear coat it for transparency.  I didn't even realize that laser paper is clear.  I need to buy some laser decal paper - that will make my life a little easier.  Anybody want to buy a few sheets of Lazertran Inkjet?   

[chromesphere]

There are 2 types of waterslides i use, inkjet and laser.  They come in 2, colors i guess you could say, clear and white.  Just wanted to clarify that, i dont think i explained it properly last time.

Yeah give clear / laser waterslide paper a go.   I bet it solves your decal edge issues

[GGBB]

There are 2 types of waterslides i use, inkjet and laser.  They come in 2, colors i guess you could say, clear and white.  Just wanted to clarify that, i dont think i explained it properly last time.

Yeah give clear / laser waterslide paper a go.   I bet it solves your decal edge issues

The clear and white I know about.  And it wasn't me with the edge issues (not since learning the hard way) it was the OP.  But not having to clear coat the decal with acrylic will save me one step since I can skip that and move strait to the poly top coat.

[chromesphere]

I note a few people seem to be having this issue in this thread, so hope it helps anyway.
Paul

[tommycataus]

Quick question - what type of clearcoat do you guys use? I don't have any professional equipment and my local paint stockist doesn't have any clear spray in a can. I found some cheaply elsewhere but the quality is poor and it is not fit for purpose. Can I use sealer or wood lacquer instead, and if so what type?

Sorry if I'm using all my spare moves at once!

[bcalla]

I have tried several and most worked fine.  My standard is Rustoleum Acrylic Lacquer because it is available at an automotive supply store about 2 miles from my house.

[davent]

I use waterbased lacquer, Target 7000, the same stuff sold by StewMac for finishing guitars, so lacquer for wood finishing.

[GGBB]

I've started (last pedal) to use Varathane water-based polyurethane and I like the results a fair bit better than the acrylic clear coats I've used (Krylon Crystal Clear and Valspar Premium Enamel).  It needs to be water based because oil based polys develop an amber tint after curing - unless of course you want that effect.

[estch71]

One thing to watch, which I found out the hard way, avoid a lacquer finish if you're using oil based spray paint.  I put two coats of clear lacquer on a pedal and it softened the paint so much that I was able to peel it off.  It was probably also due to not letting it cure long enough.  I'd say at least 3 to 4 hours between coats, two at the most per day.