D*A*M Meathead build - a little help please....

[PorkyPrimeCut]

I just sold a PoodlePedalParts Colorsound One-Knob Fuzz pedal and miss it already. It's only been 2 days! HA!!

Anyway, I have a dog-end of turretboard that's the perfect size for a D*A*M build. I'm squeezing it into a Hammond 1550 enclosure (black powdercoated).

Here's the layout drawing....



Apart from the wire thickness, everything else is measured so I know it'll fit OK (oh, the trannies aren't there yet either).
I think it's right but got confused by the lack of an OUTPUT socket on the board so I wired it up based on the PoodlePedalParts layout (blue wire).
That layout also had a 9V jack that I've done away with. There's just no space & I hate the extra wires so my fuzzes will now be battery only.

Also, I have an LED that isn't on the D*A*M build.

Question - Where does the LED + wire go? Is everything else OK?

If anyone has actually built a proper D*A*M Meathead clone on turretboard with an added LED do they have a wiring diagram.

Thanks.

[nocentelli]

LED needs to go to +9v via a current limiting resistor (anything from 1k to 22k depnding on how bright you want it, or how efficient your LED is).

[PorkyPrimeCut]

Great. So, like this?...

[nocentelli]

Yep. Looks cool.

[PorkyPrimeCut]

Right, I'm bringing this back from the dead.

I've got one half made but made a mistake with the footswitch placement & now there's no room for a battery....sigh!

So, I want to give this first one a 9v jack instead. Would someone mind explaining how I switch the battery snap for a jack socket?
The only diagrams I can find include the battery snap and DC jack. I just want the jack without the battery.

[PorkyPrimeCut]

Is it just a simple case of changing the head of the battery snap for a 9v Jack (black to black, red to red)?

[antonis]

Yes..!!

Take care of the 2 possitive lugs of the PS jack - one should go straight to PCB (or anywhere else..) and the other is for battery (dis)connection..
(when no PS plug inserted the 2 of them are short-circuited so PCB gets power from battery - with PS plug inserted the 2 of them are disconected so PCB gets power from PS and battery doesn't give current nor beeing charged ..)

Check for the lug that is connected when plug inserted or short-circuit both of them.. 

[Kipper4]

Haha. Answering ones own questions a typically Irish trait.
We used to drink with some Irish back in the day.
Manys the day old Willy used to greet us with.
It's raining today? So it is.

It still makes me giggle. Had to share.

[Cozybuilder]

Haha. Answering ones own questions a typically Irish trait.
We used to drink with some Irish back in the day.
Manys the day old Willy used to greet us with.
It's raining today? So it is.

It still makes me giggle. Had to share.

As long as you're not arguing with yourself 

[PorkyPrimeCut]

Hey folks,

I've made a bit of a school boy error. Actually, a massive one.

My first wiring attempt was a bit on the shoddy side. I'd really given myself very little space to manoeuvre (small enclosure + turret board). Basically, the pedal didn't work & when I started poking around I found at least one wire that had come lose. In my frustration I pulled the whole thing apart.

I took it apart & had a re-think. My first attempt made me realise how systematic I needed to be with my wiring & I made damn sure I'd get it right, second time around. No frayed ends to my wires. No components touching other metal parts. I even deliberately chose different coloured wire so I could re-trace things easily.

I plugged it in. No beans. Again!

So I ripped it all out & decided to do a kind of DIY version of a breadboard. Well, I got as far as thinking about it & then spotted the stupidest of stupid mistakes. I'd socketed the @#$%ing transistors incorrectly!!

Anyway, in-between my first & second attempts I did a bit of reading & used a couple of diagrams people have posted here to come up with a different wiring version...



This diagram is taking my space restrictions in mind & I have some clear heat shrink that I'll use (unshrunk) to keep the wiring tidy.
The basics of electronics still seem to confuse me & I think I may have got the OUTPUT wire wrong. Also, the GROUND wires may need tweaking.

Can anyone see mistakes? Any help would be amazing!!

[PorkyPrimeCut]

If it makes it any easier to verify, I combined these 2 diagrams...

[PorkyPrimeCut]

 

[Kipper4]

Hey folks,

I've made a bit of a school boy error. Actually, a massive one.

My first wiring attempt was a bit on the shoddy side. I'd really given myself very little space to manoeuvre (small enclosure + turret board). Basically, the pedal didn't work & when I started poking around I found at least one wire that had come lose. In my frustration I pulled the whole thing apart.

I took it apart & had a re-think. My first attempt made me realise how systematic I needed to be with my wiring & I made damn sure I'd get it right, second time around. No frayed ends to my wires. No components touching other metal parts. I even deliberately chose different coloured wire so I could re-trace things easily.

I plugged it in. No beans. Again!

So I ripped it all out & decided to do a kind of DIY version of a breadboard. Well, I got as far as thinking about it & then spotted the stupidest of stupid mistakes. I'd socketed the @#$%ing transistors incorrectly!!

Anyway, in-between my first & second attempts I did a bit of reading & used a couple of diagrams people have posted here to come up with a different wiring version...



This diagram is taking my space restrictions in mind & I have some clear heat shrink that I'll use (unshrunk) to keep the wiring tidy.
The basics of electronics still seem to confuse me & I think I may have got the OUTPUT wire wrong. Also, the GROUND wires may need tweaking.

Can anyone see mistakes? Any help would be amazing!!

Looks very much to me that you have your Gnd and circuit output reversed. the output is the 1uf &1k combination.
I could be wrong.....

[PorkyPrimeCut]

You mean the blue & black wires on the pot should be switched round (black to the middle, blue to the right).

This is a clearer version of the circuit....

[Kipper4]

no I mean the yellow (22nf)  and black (10uf)  pcb leads should be swapped.
leave the pot as soldered
I'm not too good with colours.

[PorkyPrimeCut]

Ah, I see.

So you mean like this?...



Do you think everything else is in the right place?

It's just that this now contradicts the diagram I chose to work from, which I thought was verified.

Here it is.... http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2010/02/dam-meathead.html



Sorry, no pressure, I'd just love to get this wired up ASAP.

Much appreciated!

[Kipper4]

Nope sorry I was wrong
As you were.
I finally found the schematic and the circuit output is the 22nf.

http://revolutiondeux.blogspot.co.uk/2012/01/dam-meathead.html

[PorkyPrimeCut]

So, everything is good to go?

[duck_arse]

kipper is right when he says not good with colours. 22nF goes to pot hot, 10uF should be grounded, so pot cold, and wiper to footswitch.

it would be better to mark your wiring dia with names for wires as well, even if only sig-in and sig-out. are you using a BC182L?

[PorkyPrimeCut]

kipper is right when he says not good with colours. 22nF goes to pot hot, 10uF should be grounded, so pot cold, and wiper to footswitch.

it would be better to mark your wiring dia with names for wires as well, even if only sig-in and sig-out. are you using a BC182L?

I'm a novice and unfortunately tend to build in the style of "painting by numbers", as irritating as it probably is. I try'n learn as I go along but electronics is a whole new world to me. I dabble in builds very infrequently. It's just, at the moment, I'm trying to get back into it.

So, when you say "Pot Hot, Pot Cold and wiper" are you referring to lug 1, 2 & 3 of the potentiometer?

And, at risk of seeming like a parrot, is this diagram now good to go?