A/DA Flanger Need Help Effect Doesn't Works

Started by Zipporello, November 22, 2013, 08:51:59 AM

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Zipporello

Hi all,

yesterday i've finally complete and enclosured my A/DA Flanger, but it doesn't work.

http://www.sabrotone.com/?p=805

I follow all rules, and update. It works in true bypass, but when turn on the pedal, the effect didn't work.
The out signal is basically the same of the input signal. (al little bit less distortion).
The only feature work is the volume control.
The other five regulations doesn't works.

Any suggestion? there's anybody just try to build this pedal?

There's only one part in the stripboard configuration i don't understand: how to connect the single part of the Jack 3 (manual control jack)? (Ring? Tip? Sweep Ring? what does it mean?)

Please, can you post a picture about the configuration of this jack?

Really thanks for your patience

Stefano

Govmnt_Lacky

As far as the Manual jack goes. I believe it is a TRS Stereo jack. The TIP connection goes to the stereo jack TIP. The Ring goes to the ring. and the Sleeve probably goes to Ground.

As for your output problem I suggest you go here and repost:

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=29816.0

Good Luck!  ;D
A Veteran is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The United States of America
for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'

Zipporello

thanks.

there's someone would post a little picture about the jack 3 configuration?  ;D

duck_arse

#3
" I will say no more "

Zipporello

thanks for the link.

i'm pretty sure the jack is a stereo jack, but if i check the schematics, i've 4 pin (ground, tip, ring, and an another lug)

here the schematics: http://moosapotamus.net/images/ADAflangerSCH.gif

thanks  ;)

P.S. could the problem was generate by wrong adjustment of the trimmer on-board?

really thanks

Govmnt_Lacky

Quote from: Zipporello on November 22, 2013, 10:22:53 AM
thanks for the link.

i'm pretty sure the jack is a stereo jack, but if i check the schematics, i've 4 pin (ground, tip, ring, and an another lug)

here the schematics: http://moosapotamus.net/images/ADAflangerSCH.gif

thanks  ;)

P.S. could the problem was generate by wrong adjustment of the trimmer on-board?

really thanks

If you have 4 pins on your stereo jack, it is likely that one of them is a shorting lug. Basically, when you insert the mono plug into it, the "shield" part of the mono plug shorts the RING and SLEEVE together and the tip portion of the plug will make contact with the TIP of the jack. The 4th pin on the jack will usually be shorted to the TIP when there is no plug installed. Once you install the plug, this "tip short lug" will not make contact with the actual tip anymore. These types of jacks are used when you want to divert the signal to another place when there is no plug installed.

As for the "no output" problem.... I would refer you to my original reply and direct you to the Debugging thread  ;)
A Veteran is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The United States of America
for an amount of 'up to and including my life.'

Zipporello

Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on November 22, 2013, 10:54:47 AM
Quote from: Zipporello on November 22, 2013, 10:22:53 AM
thanks for the link.

i'm pretty sure the jack is a stereo jack, but if i check the schematics, i've 4 pin (ground, tip, ring, and an another lug)

here the schematics: http://moosapotamus.net/images/ADAflangerSCH.gif

thanks  ;)

P.S. could the problem was generate by wrong adjustment of the trimmer on-board?

really thanks

If you have 4 pins on your stereo jack, it is likely that one of them is a shorting lug. Basically, when you insert the mono plug into it, the "shield" part of the mono plug shorts the RING and SLEEVE together and the tip portion of the plug will make contact with the TIP of the jack. The 4th pin on the jack will usually be shorted to the TIP when there is no plug installed. Once you install the plug, this "tip short lug" will not make contact with the actual tip anymore. These types of jacks are used when you want to divert the signal to another place when there is no plug installed.

As for the "no output" problem.... I would refer you to my original reply and direct you to the Debugging thread  ;)

thanks.
this weekend i check all components on my circuit and compile the debugging form.

first, i only want to know if someone else has build this pedal with stripboard instead the pcb.  ;D

thanks for your patience.

Zipporello

tonight i have check the jack 3, it's correct, but it still doesn't work.
The output sound is the same of the input sound (a little bit less distortion)

I'm the first that build this pedal?

No one pots works, either the trimmers!
5 pots and 6 trimmers, completely bypassed.

only the first trimmers, the bias trim works: all left, output equal the input. All right, mute.
My version of the ada flanger is the MN3007 A/DA Flanger.

I'm trying to calibrate the pedal:
- input voltage 18V       OK
- LM7815 output 15V    OK
- Vb 7V                       OK

after that i'm trying to regulate the max and the min clock.
Well, the Test Pin results always at 12.4 KHz (Oscilloscope). No regulation with trimmer or manual pot.

i'm really hope that someone can help me.

regards

Stefano

Fender3D

Ciao Stefano,


As Greg (govmnt_lacky) said, you'll need a stereo jack WITH a switch for either tip or ring. But if you connect row Q and row Z, it will work, Manual Sweep jack aside.

If clock is stuck at 12.4KHz, your VCO is not working:
try shorting IC5's pins 11 and 12 and check if clock changes;
otherwise check against schematic the connections around IC6.

You may have other issues there, 'cause BBD should work (noisy and bad) if clocked at ~6KHz
But check VCO first then report
"NOT FLAMMABLE" is not a challenge

Zipporello

Quote from: Fender3D on November 22, 2013, 08:23:11 PM
Ciao Stefano,


As Greg (govmnt_lacky) said, you'll need a stereo jack WITH a switch for either tip or ring. But if you connect row Q and row Z, it will work, Manual Sweep jack aside.

If clock is stuck at 12.4KHz, your VCO is not working:
try shorting IC5's pins 11 and 12 and check if clock changes;
otherwise check against schematic the connections around IC6.

You may have other issues there, 'cause BBD should work (noisy and bad) if clocked at ~6KHz
But check VCO first then report

Thanks Fender3D.

i have shorted pin 11 and 12 of the IC5 (CD4007) and the Test Pin change frequency: 12,4KHz -> 7.31MHz.

What does it mean?

really really thanks

Zipporello

wait a minute........

i have try to disconnect the IC once per time.
well, if i unplugged the IC3, IC4, IC5, IC6, IC9, IC10 and Q1 the output signal doesn't change! it's the same. god.... :icon_cry:

Fender3D

Quote from: Zipporello on November 23, 2013, 07:54:23 AM
i have shorted pin 11 and 12 of the IC5 (CD4007) and the Test Pin change frequency: 12,4KHz -> 7.31MHz.

Then maybe the MOSFET inside IC5 is faulty and VCO is working, try and swap the chip, otherwise check against schematic if bridges, cuts, and parts near IC5 and IC6 are all ok.

Quote from: Zipporello on November 23, 2013, 08:09:45 AM
wait a minute........

i have try to disconnect the IC once per time.
well, if i unplugged the IC3, IC4, IC5, IC6, IC9, IC10 and Q1 the output signal doesn't change! it's the same. god.... :icon_cry:

Flanging is obtained by mixing two identical signals together, with one signal delayed by a small and gradually changing period (Wikipedia)

If you check the schematic, dry (not delayed) signal reaches output through IC1a>IC1b>IC2b.
Other chips are there just for wet (delayed) signal.

Remember, you have a great learning opportunity while crafting/modding pedals... and following the schematic is always a good start point.

PS
C33 on sabrotone's layout is pratically useless there.
It will prevent noises better if you place it near IC6 (row z col. 31 and row B col. 31)
"NOT FLAMMABLE" is not a challenge

Zipporello

really thanks.

i've checked the cuts and the jumpers, now i have to check short circuit.

a (maybe) stupid question: in the sabrotone's layout is missed the C24 capacitor (but it's in the original schematics).

why?

really really thanks  ;)

Fender3D

Quote from: Zipporello on November 23, 2013, 11:35:13 AM
in the sabrotone's layout is missed the C24 capacitor (but it's in the original schematics).

why?

Because the layout is wrong...  :icon_wink:
C24 and C25 are connected to obtain a 15uF non-polar capacitor.
You can easily add C24 in series with C25 on stripboard
"NOT FLAMMABLE" is not a challenge

Zipporello

tomorrow i'll fix it. ;)

this is not the reason of the problem, right? too easy!  ;D

Fender3D

Well this might block LFO, then no moving modulation...
but you should hear the wet signal as well, even if static, then you may have other issues also
"NOT FLAMMABLE" is not a challenge

Zipporello

thanks.

i'll report bad or good news tomorrox!

(are you italian, Fender3D?)

Fender3D

#17
;)

Cossato (BI)
"NOT FLAMMABLE" is not a challenge

Zipporello

bad, really bad news.

I finish to controll all components and soldering. No one error.

I have correct the missed C24. No result.

I think i'll give up with stripboard.

Zipporello