My First Build - Noob Advice Required about components.

[steveyraff]

Hey all,

So after a long time reading and researching, I've decided to try building my own pedal. I am a complete novice at this as I have no prior electronics experience, but it is something I am really ambitious and motivated about getting into. I've read quite a bit but I think the best way for me to learn is to try to start a project and learn as I go, learning from mistakes if need be.

I was originally looking at some of the most basic circuits I could find, so I could just copy one verbatim and see how it turned out. Originally I settled on a Dallas Rangemaster as it was a single transistor circuit - but the whole issue of biasing and measuring leakage etc seemed a little off putting.

I have a friend who works in the electronics industry and he has been helping me somewhat in terms of guidance. He asked me to show him a circuit that I'd actually LIKE to build i.e a pedal I would like to own. I showed him the Pete Cornish G2 and a clone schematic / PCB I found online. Well, he thought I should just go for it. So he has gave me a few of the PCB's for the circuit, and most of the components.

I plan to basically just do a straight up copy of it - I figure as long as I am careful with my soldering, it is glorified lego. I am sure I will still manage to mess it up.

One very noob question I have on this to start with...
The components. It lists them all here. The only problem is, I presume the list of components isn't specific. I mean, on these schematics it says transistors Q1 - Q5 are known as "BC549". What does this mean? Is this just a general type of transistor? If it is just a general type, I am guessing there are various makes and kinds of it which vary in quality?

I guess what I am trying to say is, do I just go to a store and buy any kind of resistor / cap / diode that the circuit lists I need, or do I need to be more specific? I find it hard to word. I just know that when I for example revalve my guitar amps, I can go out and buy just any old 12aX7 / ECC83 and it won't do it much justice - but what I prefer to do is buy specific, good quality types of these valves which bring a lot more out of my amp.

Does these circuit components work the same way? If so, can someone advise me on what types/models of components I should go for in this build?

I am probably making very little sense lol. This is all part of the learning process for me - asking the stupid questions etc.

Thanks for your patience.
Steve.

http://stompboxed.blogspot.co.uk/2012/07/pete-cornish-g2.html

[mth5044]

Nope, you make tons of sense. The various numbers and letters can be off putting if are unsure of what you're looking for - in which case, you are going to want to wait a while before trying to browse Mouser.

In any case, you probably won't just 'go to the store' and but any kind of component. Even radio shack won't have some things you need, which is why a lot of us do our shopping online. This forum's store has a great number of things you may need. Small Bear Elec also has a ton of components. Taydaelectronics has lots as well, but if you are looking for quality stuff, sometimes they can be hit or miss. Then there are the big guys - Mouser, Digitech, etc where they have other things besides the components we tend to use. Many other things. Start off with this site's store and small bear. If you search for a BC549, and they have them, the one that will come up is the one you want. Technically, all BC549's should be similar with respect to our purposes.

For the resistors, it's mostly preference. You can get carbon, metal, etc. You can get them in various wattages, but most tend to go with 1/4W or so. Even 1/8 will usually do and they are the smallest.

Capacitors are preference for most things - tolerance, size. You do need to make sure you get ones that have a high enough voltage rating. They can come as low as 16V, which is ok for a lot of things, but if you ever want to use an 18V adapter, you had better make sure you caps can handle it. 25V is alright. Anything above that usually gets larger and larger.

Do a search of this forum, these questions get asked a lot so you'll find a lot of good info if you search for it. The G2 is pretty ambitious for a first build, good luck. I hope you've soldered before.

[smallbearelec]

Hi--

Your questions are all perfectly reasonable. Before you buy parts and/or pick up tools, check out two references. One is the beginner FAQ on this site. The other is my Beginner Dos and Don'ts:

https://www.smallbearelec.com/HowTos/BeginnerArticle/BeginnerDos.htm

A Rangemaster or a Cornish boost Is actually a reasonable first build if you have a build-it-this-way design and some help with picking components. You can also try the Beginner Project on this site. If you shop in my store and want/need help, e-mail smallbearelec@ix.netcom.com

HAPPY CONSTRUCTION!

[steveyraff]

Nope, you make tons of sense. The various numbers and letters can be off putting if are unsure of what you're looking for - in which case, you are going to want to wait a while before trying to browse Mouser.

In any case, you probably won't just 'go to the store' and but any kind of component. Even radio shack won't have some things you need, which is why a lot of us do our shopping online. This forum's store has a great number of things you may need. Small Bear Elec also has a ton of components. Taydaelectronics has lots as well, but if you are looking for quality stuff, sometimes they can be hit or miss. Then there are the big guys - Mouser, Digitech, etc where they have other things besides the components we tend to use. Many other things. Start off with this site's store and small bear. If you search for a BC549, and they have them, the one that will come up is the one you want. Technically, all BC549's should be similar with respect to our purposes.

For the resistors, it's mostly preference. You can get carbon, metal, etc. You can get them in various wattages, but most tend to go with 1/4W or so. Even 1/8 will usually do and they are the smallest.

Capacitors are preference for most things - tolerance, size. You do need to make sure you get ones that have a high enough voltage rating. They can come as low as 16V, which is ok for a lot of things, but if you ever want to use an 18V adapter, you had better make sure you caps can handle it. 25V is alright. Anything above that usually gets larger and larger.

Do a search of this forum, these questions get asked a lot so you'll find a lot of good info if you search for it. The G2 is pretty ambitious for a first build, good luck. I hope you've soldered before.

That is exactly the kind of answer I was after -  Thank you so much!

Yea its all a little overwhelming for now - but as much as I've been reading, its only now that I am prepping for a first build that I am taking a lot of the info in properly.

When I say 'go to the store', I did actually mean online. I am in Ireland, by the way. We have Maplin here which is like RadioShack I guess. I have a discount code that I can use for a electronics website here in the UK called OneCall. Not sure if you heard of it?

In my research I have came across some of the electronics sites you mention. Thanks for those, I'll make sure to give them a look through.

My worry was that I'd go and buy, for example, the first BC549 to come up, and then someone tell me "oh geez, that is a particularly crappy BC549!" lol. If they are indifferent to one another, thats all I need to know. I am sure i will get into the nitty gritty of different makes and materials of components soon.

This worry originated when I started thinking about building the Dallas Rangemaster and someone told me they only got around to making one when they found a yellow Mullard OC44. I looked one up and it was like 100 bucks!

Still learning here!
Steve.

[steveyraff]

Hi--

Your questions are all perfectly reasonable. Before you buy parts and/or pick up tools, check out two references. One is the beginner FAQ on this site. The other is my Beginner Dos and Don'ts:

https://www.smallbearelec.com/HowTos/BeginnerArticle/BeginnerDos.htm

A Rangemaster or a Cornish boost Is actually a reasonable first build if you have a build-it-this-way design and some help with picking components. You can also try the Beginner Project on this site. If you shop in my store and want/need help, e-mail smallbearelec@ix.netcom.com

HAPPY CONSTRUCTION!

Many thanks - and thanks for going easy on my embarrassing beginner queries! I have been to the site and its brilliant. Thank you for the info. It is all helping a lot!
Steve.

[steveyraff]

I hope you've soldered before.

I work as a sound engineer - I don't have much experience of electronics, but I do a fair amount of soldering broken XLR's, Jack and DMX cables as well as making them. It helps!

[Seljer]

This worry originated when I started thinking about building the Dallas Rangemaster and someone told me they only got around to making one when they found a yellow Mullard OC44. I looked one up and it was like 100 bucks!

Thats just a case of us guitarists searching for 'mojo' wherever we can. You get the same thing with people wanting to recreate to perfect oringal Hendrix tone or whatever paying mucho $$$ for NOS (new old stock) vacuum tubes that were sitting in some drawer never used for 50 years.

Component wise, when looking through catalogs, one thing you have to look out for is the components package type. Especially with integrated circuits like opamps where you can accidentally order surface-mount devices instead of through hole, which then don't really help you much if you have a layout/board designed for regular through-hole components.

[PRR]

> "BC549". What does this mean? Is this just a general type of transistor? If it is just a general type, I am guessing there are various makes and kinds of it which vary in quality?

"BC549" is a _specification_, published so that you may buy that part from ANY maker with confidence you will get what you want.

Here's a BC549 datasheet, published by NXP, but giving the same specifications as anybody else's BC549.
http://www.nxp.com/documents/data_sheet/BC549_550.pdf

Quality? This has not been a major issue in decades. The BIG parts buyers (military, TV, computer, etc) need "good" parts by the millions. It is not worth making "less-good" parts just for the tiny DIY market.

Buy from *known* vendors, you will get a part which meets all BC549 specs.

Favor pedal specialists because they already know what you want.

This forum's host sells parts, click STORE at the top of this page.

Small Bear does a big business of pedal-type parts. He'll sell you one or ten, but he also sells to builders who buy a thousand parts at a time, so he can't do dubious parts.

Mouser and DigiKey are the Big Boys. They have stuff nobody knows what it is. Good when you know what you want, but often overwhelming.

(eBay is very chancy, especially for novices.)

[Jdansti]

Something you'll run up against is that most schematics and layouts assume you know how to wire up the off-board components, and they don't tell you. Here is a good resource:

Off-board Wiring
http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/StompboxWiring/

Here's a good resource for all about...

Capacitors
http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/Caps/

Resistors & Potentiometers
http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/Pots/

[ic]

Being from Ireland, you might find Bits Box handy for components;

http://www.bitsbox.co.uk/pa/FXKitIndex.html

I'm from Oz, and have purchased from Small Bear, Tayda, Musikding, Bits Box, ebay, and others, and haven't had a problem. While the "pedal specialists" might be a little more expensive in some instances, the security and support you get is well worth it.

Cheers, Ian.

[steveyraff]

Hey guys, just finished collecting all of my tools and components and the PCB's arrived today too. I still just need to get a 3PDT footswitch, jackplugs and enclosures. Almost there though. Still doing my research and reading to make sure I do the job properly and to the best of my noobish abilities.

Steve.

CORNISH G2-PCB :-  http://s597.photobucket.com/user/steveyraff/media-full/Mobile%20Uploads/G2PCB_zps32786c43.jpg.html

[steveyraff]

Hey - I was reading more info on my build here: http://www.madbeanpedals.com/projects/Darkside/docs/Darkside_ver.2.pdf

It says at one point: "You can also sub different transistors. However, be mindful of pin-outs! The BC549 has a
pinout 180° from a 2n5088."

Can someone explain this to me and what a 'pinout' is?

Many thanks,
Steve.

[Hemmel]

Hi Steve, pinouts are important in components such as transistors, ICs, diodes, etc.
For transistors, you need to know how to connect them to your circuit, and according to schematics.

Pinouts are shown as "CBE" for Collector, Base and Emitter. However depending on the transistor, these will not always be in the CBE order when you physically look at them.

BC549


2N5088


So if you look at the flat face or the transistors with the pins going down, the BC549 pinout will be Collector-Base-Emittor but the 2N5088 pinout will be Emittor-Base-Collector.
That's why Madbean says to turn it 180°.

[steveyraff]

Hi Steve, pinouts are important in components such as transistors, ICs, diodes, etc.
For transistors, you need to know how to connect them to your circuit, and according to schematics.

Pinouts are shown as "CBE" for Collector, Base and Emitter. However depending on the transistor, these will not always be in the CBE order when you physically look at them.

BC549


2N5088


So if you look at the flat face or the transistors with the pins going down, the BC549 pinout will be Collector-Base-Emittor but the 2N5088 pinout will be Emittor-Base-Collector.
That's why Madbean says to turn it 180°.

Very helpful - thank you. I think I understand now. So when someone says be careful about the 'pinout'; do they just mean be careful what order and configuration the component pins (legs) are?

That's pretty straight forward. I was aware that components need to be soldered in a certain way around. I had downloaded a few charts to consult when I need to find out the correct orientation of a component.

Thanks!
Steve.

[mth5044]

Basically, yes. Careful of the pinout is usually when you are subing one transistor in for another. If you have a vero/perf/PCB layout, the transistor will (hopefully) be shown soldered in the right way. If you are replacing one transistor with another, the new transistor might not be installed the same way as the layout shows. Thus watch the pinout!

[steveyraff]

Basically, yes. Careful of the pinout is usually when you are subing one transistor in for another. If you have a vero/perf/PCB layout, the transistor will (hopefully) be shown soldered in the right way. If you are replacing one transistor with another, the new transistor might not be installed the same way as the layout shows. Thus watch the pinout!

Ok cool! Thanks.

I am also having some confusion over Diode 5 in this circuit. I may be confused in my research, but I believe it is something to do with the power supply or voltage protection? A friend who made a similar circuit already said the one I have is overkill. I have a 1N5822. The Madbean guide said I can also use a 1N4001 and my friend agreed that would be better - but I still don't understand why? He said Polarity protection like this is actually worse than no protection at all and that if you plug in an inverted supply the diode will explode saving the rest of the components but can actually blow a hole in the pcb??? He said that every fuzz pedal with pnp's he has ever done, he put in a charge pump that allows him to plug in the standard boss style supply.  

Can someone explain all this to me???   I'd obviously like the pedal to take the normal standard UK Boss style power supply too.

Sorry again for the silly questions - desperately trying to figure this all out.

Steve.

[steveyraff]

bump.

[Jdansti]

I'm not sure about why the Schottky 1N5822 would be better than a 1N4001 in a fuzz, but maybe someone else can chime in about that.

Regarding the positive ground issue,  I haven't built any PNP pedals yet, but my understanding is you can use a regular Boss style adapter you wire it like this:

http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_sw_3pdt_tb_pnp_dcj.pdf

Don't take my word for it, though. Wait for someone who really knows what they're talking about explain it.

[PRR]

> why the Schottky 1N5822 would be better than a 1N4001

Lower voltage drop; but nothing in this pedal would mind 1V reverse voltage.

> the diode will explode saving the rest of the components

No; after the diode explodes you have reverse voltage on all the parts.

Another plan showed a beefy 1N540x 3 Amp diode. The idea is that this big diode will hang-in long enough to blow-up your power supply, thus protecting your build.

Many of these "reverse protection" schemes date from days of batteries. You can start to plug a battery backward. A 1N4001 rectifier diode can short-out a pocket 9V batt forever, or at least long enough for you to note the snaps won't go and try it the other way. But if you may use "any" 9V power supply, you have to pick the diode to survive blowing-up the biggest supply in your world. And then replace that power supply (though big ones are often self-protecting).

The Boss style power supply is 9V. This fuzz is negative ground just like most pedals. I don't see any real problem. Be careful when you wire the power jack. Note that, I think, you want the Plastic jack (or bushings on a metal jack) because the basic metal jack polarity conflicts with metal pedal-boxes.

[steveyraff]

Hey guys,

So - I more or less have all my components. Yes, I am taking a long time - but I am researching and learning as I go, and trying to make sure I do each step correctly. Its my first build so I'll take my time and learn as much as possible from this one as possible, so the next might be easier - and quicker!

I just need some final parts. Jack Sockets. I was looking at the parts on http://doctortweek.co.uk and it lists Jack Socket 1/4 Mono Skeleton, Jack Socket 1/4 Stereo Switched Skeleton, and Enclosed.

I am just wondering what to go for. I had presumed Mono's but my friend wrote in an email "You'll need 2 Jack sockets (one of these a switched stereo if you plan on using a battery AND dc jack.  I don't use batteries so I just buy mono skeleton jack sockets)" Can someone explain this in a little more detail please, so that I can better understand the reasoning behind this??

Second question:

I need to buy a 3PDT footswitch. Can someone let me know a little about this in relation to making the pedal True Bypass. Am I right in thinking it is the wiring of this switch that will dictate if the pedal operates in true bypass or not? If so, some details about this would be cool.

Thanks guys, I am doing most of this research myself in my free time, but if some people here can offer me quick answers it'd be a great time saver. Cheers!