My First Build - Noob Advice Required about components.

[mth5044]

A stereo switched jack is used (typically as the input) to save the battery. The negative terminal of the battery is wired up the the ring of the stereo jack (which has a tip, ring and sleeve like the stereo cables). When no cable is in the jack, the circuit is not complete and the battery won't die. When a mono plug is insterted, the ring prong of the stereo jack is connected to ground through the sleeve of the plug. A mono plug doens't have a ring, so the ring and the sleeve prongs of the jack both touch the sleeve of the plug. This completes the circuit and allows the battery to power the circuit. This is done so that when you are done playing, you unplug the input and the battery doesn't die. Unless you add a power on/off switch, there is no real way to save the battery besides taking it out. I don't use batteries, so I never use this type of switching. As your friend said, two mono jacks will do just fine if you don't intend on using a battery (only a power cable). I also use the 'skeleton' jacks as you call them, which are just the normal looking open jacks. The enclosed jacks are big and black and I think they take up more room. Doesn't really matter which you use, but if you go skeletal make sure the plug, when insterted, doesn't run into anything.

For the switching, unless you specifically plan ahead for non-true bypass, you will be using it. There are circuits where you can shunt out a portion of the circuit, such as killing an oscillator in a trem, that will effectively stop the sound of the pedal; however, the signal will still go through some circuitry and be 'colored' by it, as they say. Another type of switching is fet switching like Boss pedals. It will bypass the effect circuit, but your signal still goes through some switching circuitry. The simpliest for beginners is true bypass. There are literally a billion wiring diagrams on the internet for a 3PDT true bypass, have a look at them when you go to wire it up. You can also use a DPDT without an LED or with the millenium bypass (google).

[steveyraff]

A stereo switched jack is used (typically as the input) to save the battery. The negative terminal of the battery is wired up the the ring of the stereo jack (which has a tip, ring and sleeve like the stereo cables). When no cable is in the jack, the circuit is not complete and the battery won't die. When a mono plug is insterted, the ring prong of the stereo jack is connected to ground through the sleeve of the plug. A mono plug doens't have a ring, so the ring and the sleeve prongs of the jack both touch the sleeve of the plug. This completes the circuit and allows the battery to power the circuit. This is done so that when you are done playing, you unplug the input and the battery doesn't die. Unless you add a power on/off switch, there is no real way to save the battery besides taking it out. I don't use batteries, so I never use this type of switching. As your friend said, two mono jacks will do just fine if you don't intend on using a battery (only a power cable). I also use the 'skeleton' jacks as you call them, which are just the normal looking open jacks. The enclosed jacks are big and black and I think they take up more room. Doesn't really matter which you use, but if you go skeletal make sure the plug, when insterted, doesn't run into anything.

For the switching, unless you specifically plan ahead for non-true bypass, you will be using it. There are circuits where you can shunt out a portion of the circuit, such as killing an oscillator in a trem, that will effectively stop the sound of the pedal; however, the signal will still go through some circuitry and be 'colored' by it, as they say. Another type of switching is fet switching like Boss pedals. It will bypass the effect circuit, but your signal still goes through some switching circuitry. The simpliest for beginners is true bypass. There are literally a billion wiring diagrams on the internet for a 3PDT true bypass, have a look at them when you go to wire it up. You can also use a DPDT without an LED or with the millenium bypass (google).

Brilliant, thank you very much - a very good summary.

[ic]

I could be wrong, but isn't a switched stereo jack a different beast? A basic stereo jack has the tip, ring, sleeve, but I think a switched jack has an extra pair of tags that connect a switch.

Edit: changed 'contacts' to 'tags'

[mth5044]

You are quite right, thanks!

[Jdansti]

A stereo switched jack is used (typically as the input) to save the battery. The negative terminal of the battery is wired up the the ring of the stereo jack (which has a tip, ring and sleeve like the stereo cables). When no cable is in the jack, the circuit is not complete and the battery won't die. When a mono plug is insterted, the ring prong of the stereo jack is connected to ground through the sleeve of the plug. A mono plug doens't have a ring, so the ring and the sleeve prongs of the jack both touch the sleeve of the plug. This completes the circuit and allows the battery to power the circuit. This is done so that when you are done playing, you unplug the input and the battery doesn't die. Unless you add a power on/off switch, there is no real way to save the battery besides taking it out. I don't use batteries, so I never use this type of switching. As your friend said, two mono jacks will do just fine if you don't intend on using a battery (only a power cable). I also use the 'skeleton' jacks as you call them, which are just the normal looking open jacks. The enclosed jacks are big and black and I think they take up more room. Doesn't really matter which you use, but if you go skeletal make sure the plug, when insterted, doesn't run into anything.

For the switching, unless you specifically plan ahead for non-true bypass, you will be using it. There are circuits where you can shunt out a portion of the circuit, such as killing an oscillator in a trem, that will effectively stop the sound of the pedal; however, the signal will still go through some circuitry and be 'colored' by it, as they say. Another type of switching is fet switching like Boss pedals. It will bypass the effect circuit, but your signal still goes through some switching circuitry. The simpliest for beginners is true bypass. There are literally a billion wiring diagrams on the internet for a 3PDT true bypass, have a look at them when you go to wire it up. You can also use a DPDT without an LED or with the millenium bypass (google).

Brilliant, thank you very much - a very good summary.

Here's a good picture of what is going on with the stereo jack and with the bypass switch: http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/StompboxWiring/

[steveyraff]

Thanks guys, you've all been very helpful.

Bought a variety just incase, and to add to my supplies for future projects. Thanks!

[duck_arse]

the boxed jack is longer, flange to pins, but takes a little less room circumference-wise. boxed jacks are less likely to short on things around them, and won't expand when you in plug, whereas the open type will, as the contacts move. your choice depends on how much room you have in your case, and in which direction you have most room.

the box jack is also available with isolated change-over switchs, you can use them to switch power or open or short other isolated parts of your circuit as you plug or unplug. you do need to meter your connections, just to make sure.

[steveyraff]

Thanks for the help so far.

I finally started populating my PCB today. Good to finally start some soldering. Had to get a workstation set up and all the tools and components to do the job right from the start. Just getting all the resistors out of the way first. So far, finding the process to be actually very therapeutic!

I bought a range of Diodes that Madbean suggested experimenting with on this circuit. The guide states "There's some debate over the best diodes to use for D1 – D4. Try socketing those so that you can swap out different varieties. These are good ones to try in the circuit: 1n34a, 1n270, 1n60,
BAT41, and 1n914." 

I have all of these diodes gathered up. What I am wondering is, when I get to this part, is it recommended to try the same kind of diode for all 4, or can you use random combinations? ie - if I am trying BAT41, do I have to make all four diodes BAT41?

I am socketing them anyway to make them easier to swap out. Just curious if it works better to stick with one kind, or if they can be mixed and matched.

Thanks.
Steve.

[Jdansti]

You can mix them up or use all the same. Also, try some LEDs too. It just depends on what sounds good to you.

The turn on voltages of the diodes determine the amount of clipping, and consequently different fuzz effects.  If you have two diodes that have the same turn on voltage, you get symetric clipping, which has certain harmonic characteristics. If you use two diodes with different turn on voltages, you'll get asymmetric clipping which will sound different than symetric. See: http://www.bteaudio.com/articles/TSS/TSS.html.

[mth5044]

Beware of all the diode combinations. It's a slippery slope.

[steveyraff]

You can mix them up or use all the same. Also, try some LEDs too. It just depends on what sounds good to you.

The turn on voltages of the diodes determine the amount of clipping, and consequently different fuzz effects.  If you have two diodes that have the same turn on voltage, you get symetric clipping, which has certain harmonic characteristics. If you use two diodes with different turn on voltages, you'll get asymmetric clipping which will sound different than symetric. See: http://www.bteaudio.com/articles/TSS/TSS.html.

Symmetric and asymmetric clipping - thats interesting. Never looked into this before. Will be sure to steer my research in this direction. I'll try not to get too carried away. Might just stick to all similar. Cheers.

[amptramp]

Symmetrical clipping tends to favour odd harmonics.  If you clip a sine wave (the approximate output of a velocity-modulated woodwind that has no reed, like a flute) you can get a square wave which sounds like a pressure-modulated woodwind with a reed such as a clarinet.  If the clipping is asymmetric, you get even-order harmonics and you can make some very different sounds that do not resemble woodwinds.  Some clipping diodes have a considerable resistance in series whereas others tend to clip sharply, giving a harsher sound.  Design for the sound you want.

[steveyraff]

Heres my daily noob question...

I've all my resistors soldered in now.

Today I am moving on to Capacitors.

I've been reading up on this to make sure I don't mess up. From what I understand, the larger Capacitors have polarity markings - but the smaller ones, and the little ceramic ones don't have markings and they don't have a particularly polarity or way around to be soldered?? I am starting with a few little 1nf caps.

Is this correct? Also, I've been keeping my resistors pressed down pretty much against the PCB when soldered in. I think I may have read somewhere about Capacitors and overheatings. Am I supposed to leave some space so that the larger caps sit a little higher off the PCB? Or can they also be pressed fully down against the PCB board?

Hope these questions aren't too ridiculous.

Thank you.

[duck_arse]

usually, the (-) lead is identified on Aluminium electrolitics, or electros, and the (+) lead is marked on tag tantalum (in my experience). either way, these parts are polarised, and you need to put them the correct way. this is where your circuit diagram comes in handy, as it will have all the electros polarity marked on.

size is not a good way to identify diff parts. 1uF film caps can be larger than 1uF electros. and with the larger parts, you want them mechanically supported, so their mass doesn't matter so much under vibrations and shock. this is why we push them down onto the surface of the board if we can, and if they are large and unsupported, we dob hotmelt on them, to provide some rigidity.

so, pres fully down, and find some junk parts and boards to practise soldering on, until you are confident you are making good joints each time.

what comes after the caps?

[steveyraff]

usually, the (-) lead is identified on Aluminium electrolitics, or electros, and the (+) lead is marked on tag tantalum (in my experience). either way, these parts are polarised, and you need to put them the correct way. this is where your circuit diagram comes in handy, as it will have all the electros polarity marked on.

size is not a good way to identify diff parts. 1uF film caps can be larger than 1uF electros. and with the larger parts, you want them mechanically supported, so their mass doesn't matter so much under vibrations and shock. this is why we push them down onto the surface of the board if we can, and if they are large and unsupported, we dob hotmelt on them, to provide some rigidity.

so, pres fully down, and find some junk parts and boards to practise soldering on, until you are confident you are making good joints each time.

what comes after the caps?

Thanks man,

Yea I see on my PCB diagram it clearly marks which way around the polarity goes for the capacitors that have a specific direction, so thats very useful.

I guess after this I move on to Diodes and Transistors - I know I am probably going to socket the Diodes anyway. On my next build I might just build the circuit on a prototyping breadboard first to see which Diode combinations I like the sound of best, then commit to one for the real build. For this one I'd like to socket them to make switching different diodes in and out a little easier. I haven't really read in to if that'll cause any problems with noise yet or not though?

Thanks for the help.

[duck_arse]

someone here, I couldn't find it when I searched, showed us his diode breakout box. it had about a million different diodes of all types, and 2 million (at the very least) DIP switches to select which diodes were in circuit. it was huge!

if you don't use over long wires to and from your diode select switch, it should not be a source of noise.

and get that breadboard. knock things up on that, and you can save all the time and expense of soldering something you don't like. and you can work through all the mods you like, maybe come up w/ some new.

[steveyraff]

someone here, I couldn't find it when I searched, showed us his diode breakout box. it had about a million different diodes of all types, and 2 million (at the very least) DIP switches to select which diodes were in circuit. it was huge!

if you don't use over long wires to and from your diode select switch, it should not be a source of noise.

and get that breadboard. knock things up on that, and you can save all the time and expense of soldering something you don't like. and you can work through all the mods you like, maybe come up w/ some new.

Thanks man - you've been a great help to me today. I find that I learn things much better if I dive in and research as I go. This first project has been a big learning experience with many things noted for my second project! Cheers!

[steveyraff]

I have a few untagged Caps that I am trying to make sure I have correctly identified.

I'm still not the best at reading the various values as they seem to decimal them slightly differently on differently manufactured varieties.

Here's 3 that I am not 100% sure about. If someone could tell me what value they are. Some or all of these is hopefully a 220n cap. Although maybe some of these are 22uf ?!

Also, is 4.7 uF the same as 4u7 ? ?

Thanks again. Sorry for all the questions - the answers are helping me learn fast!

Cap 1: http://i597.photobucket.com/albums/tt52/steveyraff/20140210_163903_zpse57f2e04.jpg
Cap 2: http://i597.photobucket.com/albums/tt52/steveyraff/20140210_162924_zps8503940c.jpg
Cap 2 again: http://i597.photobucket.com/albums/tt52/steveyraff/20140210_162857_zps23965608.jpg

[mth5044]

I can't view your pictures as I can't open photobucket at work, but never trust letters printed on a cap to be the caps value. I always use this cap calculator to figure it out.

http://www.electronics2000.co.uk/calc/capacitor-code-calculator.php

[steveyraff]

Ok, no probs. One cap says "0.22    /10" and a second line says  "250    MKT"

Another says "220/16    GPF" and another line says "10.77      B41283   B41286"

Still unsure if is 4.7 uF the same as 4u7 ? ?

Some of the caps I've done so far are REALLY squeezed for space. ie they are pushed into each other so much so that they are pushed apart in opposing directions. I take it this is NOT good?