My First Build - Noob Advice Required about components.

[bluebunny]

You must be using a Laserjet printer? Inkjet decal paper is not sealed.

Damn fine answer, Steve!  Yep, mine are laser.  

[steveyraff]

Does anyone use anything similar to waterslide decals with success? A friend suggested I try printing on to transparent plastic stickers that you can get. I guess it would be almost identical asides from the sticker being a fair bit thicker that the waterslide decal. I'd probably have to cover it with extra top coat to hide the risen edges.

[bluebunny]

I'm sure there are folks round here that have used stickers.  I think you can even gently sand the edges so they're a little less "steppy".  Rick (frequencycentral) did a tutorial a long time ago about using OHP slides, too.  Have a play with the button. 

[steveyraff]

For anyone still following this ongoing saga (lol), it looks almost certainly to be defective knock-off decal paper that is causing the issue.

I'll buy some better quality stuff and let you all know how it turns out.

Steve.

[bluebunny]

Try Crafty on the previous page, Steve, with the caveat that I can only vouch for the laser version...

[duck_arse]

For anyone still following this ongoing saga (lol), it looks almost certainly to be defective knock-off decal paper that is causing the issue.
I'll buy some better quality stuff and let you all know how it turns out.
Steve.

I've been reading since page 1, it'd be silly to stop now. 12 pages from your fist post is pretty good going.

[mth5044]

I've always been tempted to go to Kinkos or such and have them print out my stuff on a transparency. I'm sure they can do white ink? Then just spray her down with clear coat.

[steveyraff]

New waterslide decal paper tried today from a brand with a good reputation.

Big improvement.

The transparent decal layer seems more durable. The acrylic spray works better.

But - I got excited. I sealed the waterslide, and then I applied it. For once it dried out on the enclosure with no wrinkles, no bubbles, no bumps - brilliant.

Then I gave the whole thing a light spray of  acrylic clear coat to seal it. It dried out and looked brilliant.

So I thought to myself, ok, now that this is all dried and sealed and looking good I will go over it with a heavy spray so I can apply a good thick coat of it. I think this was my mistake. I came out an hour later to check on it and it had huge wrinkles all over it. Completely ruined.

I peeled the decal off before it set too well.

Take 2 tomorrow. I think I need to keep the layers light and keep the drying time in between much longer. I'm gutted!

[bluebunny]

. . . a good thick coat . . .

Oooh, bad!      Go for lots of thin coats instead - you should leave ten to fifteen minutes between coats.  You need to be patient (which I find difficult!), but it works.  A thick coat will never dry.  Never, ever.  Not at all.  Really.   

[steveyraff]

. . . a good thick coat . . .

Oooh, bad!      Go for lots of thin coats instead - you should leave ten to fifteen minutes between coats.  You need to be patient (which I find difficult!), but it works.  A thick coat will never dry.  Never, ever.  Not at all.  Really.   

Hey, bluebunny - out of curiosity - which Halfords Clear Lacquer do you go for? I use this one: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_210069_langId_-1_categoryId_165505

But I noticed there is also this one: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_206575_langId_-1_categoryId_165495

[bluebunny]

The first one.  Can't say I've ever noticed the second one.

[steveyraff]

Well this is as bubble-free and wrinkle free as I've managed it yet. The crafty waterslide paper you suggested is MUCH better.

I had it sitting this good last night too - then I put too thick a layer of acrylic spray on it and it totally went to hell and completely wrinkled up.

I love how it looks like this now - but I am terrified to move on to the next step. Super light layers I guess... about 5 of them. When I mess them up they seem to peel off very easily so I am not sure how many layers it will take to make sure its sealed down there good as well as protected. To be on the safe side I better leave it for quite a while between each coat.

Here is another thing I'm terrified of doing - when exactly should I cut the holes out? I seen people do it with a very sharp blade. I tried this on the hole for the footswitch, but it started to lift the decal around the edges of it. I'm wondering can I just try using the appropriately sized drill to go through them when its all dried and ready?

[steveyraff]

Successfully finished about half a dozen light coats of acrylic spray. After drying, I cut the holes out with a brand new, very sharp scalpel.

AT LAST. It seems to be done now. Well - at least I know what to do next time. I'll box it up tomorrow.

[Jdansti]

Yeah! Congratulations!

[bluebunny]

Nice one, Steve.  Looks good.  If you *do* leave more than the 10-20 minutes between coats, you need to leave it long enough that it *dries completely* (like 24 hours).  I tend to do my clearcoats when I'm doing something else, and just nip out every 15 minutes or so to do the next coat.  I usually stop at four.  Like I said, I'm too impatient to keep that lark up for too long...  

Edit: Yeah, scalpel is the way to go.  If you're paranoid, you might want to seal the cut edges with a bit of acrylic on a Q-tip, and then be careful not to push the decal away from the enclosure when you shove the pots and jacks through.

[steveyraff]

Boxing it up at the moment. I am having an issue that I cant seem to find any info about online.

I can't get my Alpha Pots to secure into the holes I drilled as they wont sit flush against the inside of my case.

Can someone look at this picture, and explain to me what the little 'nub' is that sticks up to the upper left on the pot base, next to the nut?
http://www.banzaimusic.com/image.php?id=6748&type=D

It presses against the underside of my enclosure making it impossible for the pots to sit straight when installed. I levelled it out with a washer and a nut on the inside. No idea if that is the correct procedure. Only problem was that it only left about one or two threads protruding from the enclosure for the outside nut to fasten on to.

[steveyraff]

ALL THANKS TO YOU GUYS! I pestered you all for weeks, months, but I got there in the end and I am very proud of this! I'll record a proper video demo in my recording studio and post the video here soon so you can all have a listen. Again, couldn't have done it without you all - I'm very grateful. It's a steep learning curve but highly rewarding. I'm sure I'll pester you with more questions in future!

The one thing that worries me a little - its shockingly cramped inside this. I had to press down some of the green caps because they stuck up too far. It didn't feel nice doing this. The PCB had to literally be pushed firmly down and squeezed right in there!

P.S If anyone can explain the aforementioned Alpha Pot query it'd be cool, I still can't seem to figure out what that 'nub' is for?

Steve.

[Jdansti]

The most likely problem is you need to break off the little tab next to the threads. It's there in case you want to drill a small hole to keep the pot from turning. Most if us just pop it off with a pair of needle nose pliers.

[bluebunny]

+1.  Do what John said.

And Rob (deadastronaut) will advocate using that broken-off tab to stick in the gap of any split-shaft pots you may use to stop any screwed-on knobs squeezing the shaft "shut".  It's a perfect fit, apparently.  Sausage-worthy advice.   

[deadastronaut]

+1:  they also make great occasional tables for ants..

nice build btw, you got there in the end.. ...now for the next one.....and the next....and.....