I need another set of eyes.

[haveyouseenhim]

This is my first attempt at a PCB layout, so I need someone to look over it and see if there are any mistakes.

I'm having issues with the old version of DIYLC so this is the best image I could post for now. As for the values, there arent many, so you can assume them with the exception of R4, R7, D1.

R4 is a 33ohm resistor because I was getting hiss at the last 1/100 of the fuzz control. R7 is the 1M pulldown. D1 is the polarity diode.

[italianguy63]

??  Not on the same planet.  (I thought the labeling was supposed to coorespond!)  I quit early.

[slacker]

Looks good to me

[mth5044]

I got as far as trying to find the input. You need to label your input output power connects pots, etc. We can't read your mind! I tried to find the input based on the position of C1, but your C1 doesn't connect to any open pads and isn't even an electro. Do the part numbers not correspond to the schematic? That makes it even more difficult to figure out, not to mention populate the board. Some of the parts don't have part numbers....

[thelonious]

Looks to me like the green pad on the left under diode is IN.
R1 and R2 numbering is swapped from schem.
Long trace around the outside is ground.
3 pads on the bottom between C3 and C5 are for Fuzz pot.
Pad immediately to left of R7 is +9V.  
Trimmer = R4 on schem.
R6=39K
Pads on the right, from top to bottom, go: Tone 3, 2, 1; Level 3, 2, 1.
Green pad on bottom right is OUT.

Is the extra pad by Q1 base doing something?
____________
EDIT: C2 is backward!
Is D1 also backward? (Oops, nope, it's shunt instead of series)

Better put some power filtration on that puppy unless you're planning to use it exclusively w battery.

[mth5044]

I think the extra pad infront of Q1 is for transistors that have the triangle pinouts as Q2 has one as well. So does that mean C2 = C1? Then what is R7? A pull down resistors not on the schematic? C4 of the layout = C2 of the schematic? R2 and R1 swapped as you said. C1 = 0.1 to 1uf, C3 = 0.01uf, R5 = 47k.

If C2 of the layout is C1, then it's backwards.

But if you want people to look at it, it helps if it doesn't have to be deciphered first!

If what Thelonius and I said is correct then the layout looks like it should be good besides backward c2

[haveyouseenhim]

Thanks guys. The labeled don't correspond to the schematic. Im using metal can transistors so I added the extra pad for the base since it has a triangle footprint.

I'll probably have to add the values with ms paint since I'm having issues with diylc.  Thanks for spotting the input cap.

I'll post a corrected layout with values later.

[Ice-9]

It looks to me like most of the schematic component numbers don't correspond to the layout components so I quickly gave up.

[italianguy63]

Yeah-- it made my dylsexia scream... and I don't have the affliction.

[Jdansti]

I built it and it works.  It is supposed to be a delay. Right?


Oops: almost forgot the gut shot.

[haveyouseenhim]

Man, John. For a Texan you seen pretty smart 

[Jdansti]

You seen prety smat two.

[Ice-9]

I built it and it works.  It is supposed to be a delay. Right?


Oops: almost forgot the gut shot.

Correct me if I'm wrong John but that looks like an Atari Falcon motherboard ??  

[haveyouseenhim]

You seen prety smat two.

Damn auto correct! Totally sabotaged.   

[haveyouseenhim]

How's this?

[mth5044]

Is the diode supposed to go to ground or in line with the 9v?

[haveyouseenhim]

Is the diode supposed to go to ground or in line with the 9v?

To ground

[Jdansti]

>Correct me if I'm wrong John but that looks like an Atari Falcon motherboard Huh??

You'd probably know better than I, Mick.  I just pulled it off the web.   

[Quackzed]

looks good!

[haveyouseenhim]

                                                                                                                VERIFIED!


Lately building has gotten stale for me, so this was just the thing to get me back in the game. It was extremely satisfying to fire it up and it work first go 'round.