Pnp switch wiring, embarrassed and needing some help I think!

Started by nate77, March 10, 2014, 07:32:50 PM

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nate77

I'm trying to put together a simple 10 component fuzz together and it's not cooperating. I'm getting a very quiet signal output when engaged but it isn't fuzzed up at all. This is my first positive ground build so it took me some time to figure out how to power it and wire the footswitch (despite how straight forward it is!), so debugging this is harder for me than usual. I sided the positive ground wiring diagram from this site so I'm confident that its accurate. I'm using only a battery to power it. I have audio probed the board and have full signal up until the last resistor and output cap, at that point it drops significantly. I've swapped out the first board for the second board, changed the input jack and the result is identical, leaving me with only the switch that hasn't been replaced or rewired. The link to the layout im using is, http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2013/03/analogman-sunface-nkt275.html?m=1 and as I said, the wiring layout is from this sight. Is there any sort of advice from the vets out there? Although the positive ground thing is new for me this is the lowest component build I've done. There's very little I haven't changed, so I'm hoping there is an error in the switch wiring layout. My switch is wired ;
pin 1; board output
Pin 2; output jack
Pin 3; jumper to pin 7
Pin 4; led (not installed)
Pin 5; ground from board
Pin 6; jumper to pin 9
Pin 7; input jack (also jumper to pin 3)
Pin 8; board input
Pin 9; jumper to pin 6

Basic switch numbering;
147
258
369

Thanks for any help guys

duck_arse

pleeeze, can we have a circuit diagram? that way we'll know which is your "last" resistor.
" I will say no more "

nate77

I can't seem to find a schematic for this little jem, so I put a link to the vero layout I'm using. The resistor I'm referring to is the 2k2 before the 10n output cap between the bias pot ("sundial") and the volume pot to output. I changed the switch out as well last night so this little issue has got me seriously baffled. It's obviously something I'm doing wrong, as I have used 2 different boards I built on vero, changed the footswitch and the input jack at this point. The only change is that now I'm getting full volume when engaged but it's totally uneffected. The volume pot works as it should but the others do not, no my signal is passing through without any fuzz. Sad! I'm having trouble posting pics and even pasting links up is giving me trouble. Any help would be very appreciated.

vigilante397

Quote from: nate77 on March 10, 2014, 07:32:50 PM

Basic switch numbering;
147
258
369


So is your question about the wiring of the switch? There are several ways to do it, but I always favor the following:

1 - Jumper to 4
2 - "Input" wire from board
3 - Tip of Input jack & jumper from 7
4 - Jumper to 1
5 - Ground
6 - Negative lead from indicator LED
7 - Jumper to 3
8 - Tip of Output jack
9 - "Output" wire to jack

I actually get more out of Vero layouts than I do from schematics sometimes, but can we see some pics (front and back) of your board? If the switch isn't the problem, pics will help in debugging.
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nate77

The only reason I posted my wiring was because I thought that MAY have been the issue, passing the uneffected signal through but I replaced AND rewired the footswitch so I know that's not the issue. I have literally rebuilt this a couple times, replacing all major signal carrying components (jacks, footswitch and the board itself) so the only culprit left is my wiring. I'm experiencing some "technical difficulties" right now but I'll figure out a way to get some pics up in an hour or so. This simple little build has CRUSHED my pride!! Thanks for the direction. I'll get that and transistor pin readings up in an hour or so

nate77

silly question guys, how do I post pictures on this site? I can't even seem to handle that!! Oh, man.....

MaxPower

No idea. You could try uploading them elsewhere and then linking to them from here. imageshack is no longer free apparently.
What lies behind us and what lies before us are tiny matters, compared to what lies within us - Emerson

nate77

Thanks man. I'll give it a shot. I know in some forums photobucket is popular. Maybe I'll try that. I NEED to sort this build out. Ahhhhhhh!!!.....

anchovie

Can you confirm that the effect works when you connect directly to input and output, without the switch?
Bringing you yesterday's technology tomorrow.

nate77

I can't, but I'll check it out today. I'm actually under the impression that it doesn't have anything to do with the switch, but I'll check it out. I tried to post pics here and on another forum Last night but had no luck. I believe it has something to do with the wiring maybe? Anyway, I can't seem to get my pics up for inspection. It's almost as if there is a Devine force stopping me from finishing this!!

duck_arse

go to imgur. I used to use imageshack, but NO MORE! post yr image there, copy the "link for bulletin boards", or BBS code, or something. it has "[IMG ]....[/IMG ]" tags. then just paste the "[IMG ].....[/IMG ] " guff in yr post.

we still need a circuit diagram. the geezer wot done the vero layouts can't do them without a circuit.
" I will say no more "

nate77

I'll set up an account with them, thanks. I've tried to dig up a circuit diagram but I haven't been able to yet. I know that some of the vero layouts are done from schematics that have been done as a collaborative effort through PMs and such. I'll dig around today and see if I can find one. Thanks for the help!

nate77

I haven't been able to find the schematic yet, but it is a fuzzface with a 5k pot in place of the 8.2k resistor as an external bias control. I'll keep looking but I know there are so many people that are intimately familiar with the FF that I figured I'd throw it out there.

nate77

This is a VERY similar schematic. The sunface is the same circuit other than the bias pot at the 8.2k resistor. Help!!

http://www.beavisaudio.com/schematics/Dallas-fuzzface-pnp-schematic.htm

duck_arse

so, is the 2k2 in series with the bias pot, or in series with the output cap? can you confirm 100% positive that you have 500k between ground and the output cap?
" I will say no more "

vigilante397

Any luck on the pictures yet? That usually speeds things up :)
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nate77

It is in series with the output cap, and no luck on pictures but good news, I got it!! It turns out that out of the 3 offboard wiring diagrams I used in sequential order, they all had issues. I believe all polarity issues. I tried the curciut on its own an it worked so I built the rest from there (switch, jacks, etc). This has been the most frustrating pedal I've ever built and in unequivocally the smallest. Also, after I got it together and working, I was placing some shrink wrap on a wire joint and apparently smoked one of my nkt275s. I replaced it with another germanium tranny but not cool. I was SUPER careful and quick with the heat gun but I can't think of what else would have done it. Thanks guys. This one really tested my resolve.

anchovie

Good news!

Always test a board before boxing-up, it makes the process of elimination a lot easier.  :)
Bringing you yesterday's technology tomorrow.

vigilante397

Quote from: anchovie on March 15, 2014, 06:33:33 AM
Good news!

Always test a board before boxing-up, it makes the process of elimination a lot easier.  :)

Excellent advice that took me a few unfortunate builds to figure out :P I used to get over-excited and start drilling out my box before I had even finished wiring the circuit. Learned my lesson :)
  • SUPPORTER
"Some people love music the way other people love chocolate. Some of us love music the way other people love oxygen."

www.sushiboxfx.com

nate77

Agreed. I am obsessive about wiring neatness so I tend to want to wire it after its placed in the enclosure, but that is silly. I rewired and replaced every item in this simple build before figuring out my mistake. Now it looks like a team of monkeys built this thing! Thanks guys. I will now approach my builds in a much different order.