Help me build my component collection.

[Bipolar Joe]

I've been grabbing bits and pieces every so often, but I'm not sure about certain things I "Should" be getting. I'm really talking about transistors and diodes, mostly. I'd like to get to designing useless distortions at some point, and with so many different options for transistors and diodes, picking up a bunch of more common varieties feels like it'll be a good jumping off point. So far I have:

2N3804
MPSA42
2N3906
PN2222A
BC557
BC548
BC547
BC327

And:

1N4148
1N4006
1N4007
1N4004
1N4002
1N4001
1N4003

What else might you dudes recommend picking up?

Thanks!

[pappasmurfsharem]

All the different 1n400xs really aren't necessary. I'd probably just stick to 1n4001.

I made a similar post about a year ago. If I can find it I'll link it here. it had a lot of good suggestions

Edit: found it
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=98763.0

Some of my numbers are over zealous but you get the idea.

[garcho]

1N4006
1N4007
1N4004
1N4002
1N4001
1N4003

No difference in these as far as clipping is concerned. used in power supplies, the difference is in the peak voltages they can handle. You'll want to find some zeners and schottkys and germanium diodes.

Regarding transistors, look at tons of schematics and then buy the ones you noticed being used the most. 3904 is as standard as it gets. 2N5088 and 2N5089 are some worth picking up, as well as FETs like J201 and 2N5457, or darlingtons like MPSA14. You can make a fuzz/distortion/gain/dirt/overdrive box from just about any transistor.

Go to Small Bear and look around, all those diodes and transistors are specifically for using in guitar pedals.

[digi2t]

It all depends on what you're building, or planning to build. I tend to just buy what I need for a particular project. Sometimes a few extras of what I've learned to be "high demand" components. Simply buying stuff for the sake of buying it might lead you to have stuff collecting dust in the long run. Just go with the flow. Determine what parts you need, and get them. As you do more builds, you'll see what get used more than not, and adjust accordingly.

Quick example, I initially bought one of those multi-value resistor packages when I started building. You know, 5 values of each, from 10 ohms to 1 meg type of deal. Well, 5 years, and many builds later, there's a ton of values that I've never used. Yes, they're a great deal, but I should have just gotten what I really needed. Now, they just sit in my drawer.

Just my two bits.

[pappasmurfsharem]

It all depends on what you're building, or planning to build. I tend to just buy what I need for a particular project. Sometimes a few extras of what I've learned to be "high demand" components. Simply buying stuff for the sake of buying it might lead you to have stuff collecting dust in the long run. Just go with the flow. Determine what parts you need, and get them. As you do more builds, you'll see what get used more than not, and adjust accordingly.

Quick example, I initially bought one of those multi-value resistor packages when I started building. You know, 5 values of each, from 10 ohms to 1 meg type of deal. Well, 5 years, and many builds later, there's a ton of values that I've never used. Yes, they're a great deal, but I should have just gotten what I really needed. Now, they just sit in my drawer.

Just my two bits.

I do have to agree here.

Especially In regards to my post above. I have tones of caps I never use but it's a reasonable baseline.

Your not going to like it but find the bill of materials for 5 projects you know you want.  Put them in a spreadsheet and order multiples of those values. If there are common values in nearly all 5 which I'm sure there will be get multiples MORE of those.

Basically gets at leeeeast 1 of everything for those projects then multiply them by 5-10 depending on common values.

There will always be something you end up missing.

Always write down what you need. Then also when you place an order for specific parts make sure you write a note to yourself of what they are for.

I can't tell you how many times I've ordered random here and there parts for a specific build to finally receive them a week or 2 later and have no idea why I got them

[Bipolar Joe]

Yeah, I did notice that the 400X's haven't turned up anywhere, really. I just use them after the battery.

I ordered the op-amp and electrolytic capacitor packs from Smallbear, and the shipping was really dear, which was a shame because it's handy getting everything in one package. Also, I bought a huge resistor pack off EBay. Really mostly use 220k. I guess I'll use Smallbear as a way to make a list, along with stuff I want for my next build (I really like the Kronos by Deafbutpicky, might be adventurous and try that).

Thanks for the link, Pappasmurf.

[LucifersTrip]

>I'm really talking about transistors and diodes

All you need to do for diodes is buy some of each type (si, ge, schottky, leds, etc) and for transistors buy some of each type and hfe range (npn, pnp: hfe 50-100, 100-200, 300-500, 500+, darlington, jfet, mosfet, etc...you can worry about ge later).

you can do the above for under $20

edit:
just remembered, I saved the Tayda order I gave a friend recently as a start:

[italianguy63]

+1 what Lucifer has...

Don't forget the other stuff:  3PDT switches, jacks, 9V snaps, DC jacks (if you use them).  I started buy buying a variety bulk pack of resistors, MLCC capacitors, and electrolytic capacitors on eBay for $10 ea.-- I don't regret it.

Everything I need, I buy 2 or 3 of.  Figure I may blow one up, or want to make another later.  Ultimately, you have a stockpile of everything over time.  Parts are mostly cheap.  MC

[gjcamann]

Be sure to keep the Tayda JFET's in a specially marked bag, because they're most likely fake, they may work for some things, but may not work for other things. You should get your JFET's from a more reputable source like smallbear.

[GibsonGM]

TL071 and 72's. 4558's.  You'll use them. 

I do other work besides audio...I find the 1N4XX diodes to be indispensible for making rectifiers and dropping voltages...they have quite a few uses, actually.  I keep 10+ big diodes around, 10A types, for 'just in case' inside power supplies that might be giving more amperage than the 4XXX can handle...

IMHO, you can never go wrong buying 50+ea. of  2N3904's, 2N3906 (PNP), 2N2222/BC547, 2N5088...You can fix just about every transistor-based small-signal thing on earth with those.   

A few 2N3055's and TIP 3055's, and 2 or 3 power MOSFETs can be good to have around for power supply repair, just in case, but that's more like a "Level 2" purchase.

[deadastronaut]

I'd like to get to designing useless distortions at some point...

have fun doing that......

[garcho]

I can't tell you how many times I've ordered random here and there parts for a specific build to finally receive them a week or 2 later and have no idea why I got them

+1, so true!

Small Bear's shipping is 'dear'? Are you in the UK? Or Europe? I think it's totally fair for the US.

[pappasmurfsharem]

I can't tell you how many times I've ordered random here and there parts for a specific build to finally receive them a week or 2 later and have no idea why I got them

+1, so true!

Small Bear's shipping is 'dear'? Are you in the UK? Or Europe? I think it's totally fair for the US.

Perhaps, but I think there are many areas where a flat rate box might help here, but I don't believe Steve's store software has the option.

Just made an order there for $30 in parts, but its $10 shipping USPS or $9.50Fedex and I'm fairly certain it would fit in a flat rate box $5.80 Flat rate box.

[smallbearelec]

I think there are many areas where a flat rate box might help here, but I don't believe Steve's store software has the option.

We use those flat rate boxes A Lot, actually. The difference between the rate quoted on USPS.com and the S & H added by the shopping cart helps pay the fixed costs of the Cave: rent, utilities, forage for the Bears, etc. The profit margins on the parts, especially passives like resistors and caps, just are not enough by themselves. That said, as flexible as the shipping tables in the shopping cart are, they can't account for every situation. If the S & H seems out-of proportion on a given order, pls let us know.

Regards
SD

[pappasmurfsharem]

We use those flat rate boxes A Lot, actually. The difference between the rate quoted on USPS.com and the S & H added by the shopping cart helps pay the fixed costs of the Cave: rent, utilities, forage for the Bears, etc. The profit margins on the parts, especially passives like resistors and caps, just are not enough by themselves. That said, as flexible as the shipping tables in the shopping cart are, they can't account for every situation. If the S & H seems out-of proportion on a given order, pls let us know.

Regards
SD

You expect a place to live and food? Madness!

I mean nobody likes 1/3 the price of their order's cost to be shipping especially considering small items, but I figure the premium for supporting small business isn't a bad thing.

That and of course you have those items that no one else does. 

[petey twofinger]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pf-10uf-600pcs-30value-Multilayer-Monolithic-Ceramic-Capacitor-Assorted-Set-/121075015531?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c30a21f6b

this worked out well for me .

[GibsonGM]

I have the same issues with shipping if I use Allied, Mouser, etc...it always seems like it costs 1/3 to 1/4 of what you bought.  I just accept that as 'the way it is', esp. since I can't grow silicon crystals and etch my own transistors into chips, or get hold of 10,000 Ge transistors and all that!
Small price to pay for hours of educational entertainment, kids!!  Plus the small biz angle, good stuff, I'd rather give it there  )

[italianguy63]

I hear you.  It is irritating as a re-seller of components that selling literally a $0.25 part will cost $2.32 to ship USPS because it is ridgid and more than 1/4" thick, even though it weighs a fraction of an ounce.  Then $.20 for the envelope (bought in bulk), plus cuts by eBay and PayPal.... makes it pretty hard to get goods to market.  MC

[Bipolar Joe]

I'm in Ireland. Just found my invoice, shipping was $48, which no matter how you cut it, is expensive. I'm not saying Smallbear doesn't deserve "a place to live and food." What I am saying is that when your order is $43, and you double it and add some more for shipping, it gets very, very expensive, very very quickly. Am I happy with what I got? Yeah, it was handy and the product is good. Would I pay nearly $50 for it again? No. Now that's said and over with.

I'm sourcing some stuff, now, thanks to al who helped!

[greaser_au]

I'm in Ireland. Just found my invoice, shipping was $48, which no matter how you cut it, is expensive. I'm not saying Smallbear doesn't deserve "a place to live and food." What I am saying is that when your order is $43, and you double it and add some more for shipping, it gets very, very expensive, very very quickly. Am I happy with what I got? Yeah, it was handy and the product is good. Would I pay nearly $50 for it again? No. Now that's said and over with.

I'm sourcing some stuff, now, thanks to al who helped!

International postage from the US (and UK)  has absolutely exploded in  the last few years ($5.80 vs $10 is VERY small potatoes by comparison) - never mind the exchange rates

I've said it before:  US DIYers should try to support vendors like Aron & Steve. They are looking after you - do what you can to look after them!!! You're not saving THAT much by buying offshore.

davidt