'Space and Time' reverb with pre-delay and tails

[samhay]

Not sure if I would call PICs posh, but we can probably think of a tongue twister along those lines.
There is already a 5V regulator on board, so adding an 8 pin PIC12F to do the (soft) switching will only require a few resistors and a transistor to buffer the relay coil.
If I can find the space I could use a second relay for true bypass - tap the foot switch to turn effect on or go to tails bypass and a longer press will go to true bypass.
I have a few effects that do things like this, but I haven't really got round to posting about them as of yet.

[Kipper4]

Is the led a 5mm Sam

[samhay]

D5 can probably be just about any LED except for a blue one.
I have used red, orange and green ones. The forward voltage is important, but the small difference in capacitance between a 3 and 5mm LED is not likely to make a difference. Go with whatever you have on hand.

[Kipper4]

Thanks Sam.
I'll do my layout with a 5mm just in case.

[loylo]

It's a really nice project, Sam, congrats! 

With a 50K delay pot, what is the amount of time delay you can achieve? 400ms or so?
If I want to use this box only as a reverb, do you think it may be to long for a pre-delay control (it seems that reverb plug-ins offer a range from 10ms to 150ms for pre-delay), sothat a 10K pot may be enough?

[samhay]

Thanks loylo.
With a 50k decay resistance, I think the delay is ~600 ms. This is more than you need for a pre-delay on a reverb, but this circuit is designed to work equally well as a delay too. That said, there is no harm in using a smaller decay pot. If you want to really fine tune the shorter delay times then an A10k pot might work nicely.

I'm sorry I haven't posted a layout yet, but I am haven't finished one that I am happy with yet. If anyone fancies a layout challenge...

Edit - two other things to note.
The minimum PT2399 delay time with a 1k delay resistor is reported to be ~40 ms. You can't do much better than that with this chip.
The BTDR bricks have an inherent delay too. If minimal delay times are important to you, then I would suggest you use a short brick in this circuit (I have a long brick on the bread board).

[Mystica]

Is there a way to omit this brick business? The belton bricks I've seen are quite expensive...

I do know about this project that doesn't use a brick: Ersatz Verben psuedo reverb by culturejam

it only uses a PT2399 chip to emulate reverb. It sounds quite nice, and I might give it a shot. I always wanted to create reverb pedal, but without using a brick.

[deadastronaut]

^ you may as well build a rebote delay to get the same effect  , that doesn't sound like reverb at all really imo...

merlin has the 'equinox' reverb, it uses 2xpt2399's...take a look/listen to that.

but for long reverb you really need the brick, or go dsp....or totally against my diy instincts buy one..

[Jdansti]

Is there a way to omit this brick business? The belton bricks I've seen are quite expensive...

I do know about this project that doesn't use a brick: Ersatz Verben psuedo reverb by culturejam

it only uses a PT2399 chip to emulate reverb. It sounds quite nice, and I might give it a shot. I always wanted to create reverb pedal, but without using a brick.

I agree with DA. I've built the Ertsatz, and Sam's and DA's delays sound much better. But if you just want a quicky to get your feet wet, go for the Ersatz.

[samhay]

Is there a way to omit this brick business? The belton bricks I've seen are quite expensive...

I do know about this project that doesn't use a brick: Ersatz Verben psuedo reverb by culturejam

it only uses a PT2399 chip to emulate reverb. It sounds quite nice, and I might give it a shot. I always wanted to create reverb pedal, but without using a brick.

Essentially as the others said - If you want a PT2399-only pseudo-reverb then go for one of Merlin's dual PT2399 designs, but if you really want a versatile reverb, you need something more elaborate (like this).

[Kipper4]

Dumb question.
What socket should I use for the belton brick?
Thanks guys.

[samhay]

Not sure they play well with sockets.
The 'horizontal' version is resigned to lie against the board. I guess you could try a ribbon cable with a socket on one end.

[Kipper4]

Cheers Sam
Maybe i'll just go ahead and solder it to the perfboard and prey I dont damage it.
I really wanted it to be removable so I can trial the brick in a few other builds. Just being stingy i guess!!!!!!!!!!

[Cozybuilder]

Kipper-
I cut down a pin header for use as a socket on the brick in my Chasm build. Page 12 of that thread has the photos.

Sam-
Great looking circuit, I will have to breadboard this one, don't see any way to fit it in a LB though.
Russ

[samhay]

Here's a perf layout that I did a while ago and then put aside due to the fairly intimidating wiring.
In the mean time, kipper bravely built it using this layout (I think it was this layout anyway, Rich, please tell me if I' wrong). Download or 'view' the image for a bigger / higher resolution version.

[Kipper4]

That's the one Sam.
I used a 3mm red super bright for D5
I dont think I made any othr subs.
I did however notice a 100n on the PT2399 pin2/3 that I could not account for in the schematic.
Thanks again Mate. It was a pleasure to build. Love it.

[samhay]

Thanks Rich.
The extra 100n cap on the PT2399 can be considered optional and is just there for a little extra supply filtering.

Edit - any chance for a shot of the board?

[Kipper4]

I hope I have this right.
Here you go Sam

[samhay]

Thanks Rich - you're a star.

[Kipper4]

No problem Sam.
Save and shrink it I think. I always have problems uploading pics here.
I used NP tants for the 470n
Time to reorder some 10k resistors.