True Bypass Using IC

[Satan Of Saturn]

http://members.shaw.ca/roma/switching.html

In my city, I cant find 3PDT or DPDT heavy Duty footswitch. I'm planning to use some alternative. Meanwhile I found this, True Bypass Using 4053. Anyone tried this? Is that really good? I'm planning for "Using a Push Button" the second last schematic with PCB layout.

If its good, how can I use this to get something like this:
http://www.sabrotone.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/Layout_circuit_w_addon.gif
a schematic would help me 

[boogietone]

Look over the switching articles at geofex.com. http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/cd4053/cd4053.htm deals with analog switching, including the 4053. It is probably very similar to the schematic you linked. I like the Millennium bypass 2 for most jobs, but it needs a DPDT. I currently have a 4053 on the breadboard for another project and they do the job as designed.

[Satan Of Saturn]

Hey thanx for ur time buddy...
I noticed that Harold's wiring does not allow one to use the add-on if its bypassing the main. I tried to edit he pic and rewire it with that PCB in http://members.shaw.ca/roma/switching.html

Take a look. The rewiring will help to use the add-on even if the main is off. Tell me if I'm wrong

http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/Dipanjan_Das/media/Layout_circuit_w_addon_2_zps8276e7ae.gif.html

[MrStab]

it's probably all semantics, but is IC switching really "true" bypass? i've heard it can cause distortion if used improperly, but nothing about tone colouring i suppose.

you might wanna consider relays as well - you can use a momentary SPST switch for those.


http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/relays/relays_for_switching_audio_signa.htm

[Satan Of Saturn]

Just like http://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=13295&start=180 or http://www.fredric.co.uk/blog/134-using-a-latching-relay-driver-for-true-bypass ?

[MrStab]

i can only see the 2nd link you posted, but that seems about right. for that particular circuit, you'll need a 2-coil latching relay.
non-latching relays will drain a lot more current (and are wired differently, iirc).

something not mentioned enough is that small relays put all your signal paths really close to each other, which could cause problems with oscillation etc., especially if it's a high-gain circuit and high impedance signals are right next to low-impedance ones. DPDT switches are often the same, but 3PDTs allow more spacing.

[Satan Of Saturn]

first link was of free-stomp-box I think this forum wont allow me to link it. The thing is... I really dont like relays  The CMOS switching with 4053 looks pretty good.... I'm gonna give it a try... and according to 'boogietone', I dont think that would be noisy.... definitely will give 4053 a chance  ... if it fails, relay is the only hope 

[MrStab]

i've heard some good reports of CMOS switching, despite the "oh, no - electronic bypass!" fear. it's harder to find the right relays, and they cost more, i suppose.
good luck! hope it works out.

[J0K3RX]

If a IC or transistor or whatever is driving a relay... it's pretty much gonna always be "true bypass" latching or not. The thing you really want it is "momentary switch latching relay true bypass" because you ain't gonna get that loud @ss "CLUNK" sounds every time you hit the foot switch and a momentary will usually outlast a 3PDT standard foot switch....

[mth5044]

J0K3RX ^ Do you have any recomendations for such a relay? I've use a few, but there seem to be a bunch. 5V or 9V, doesn't matter.

[MrStab]

(just because it's semi-fresh in my memory:)
iirc, the Geofex article recommends the NEC EA2-5SNJ. personally, i've had success twice with the Panasonic TQ2-L-5V.
others i've dug up in a search are the Fujitsu AL-5-W-K and the TE Connectivity FX2-D3243.

i can vouch for the Panasonic one, and i'm 99% sure the others are what you're looking for, but read the datasheets carefully, because often the product codes can be just 1 letter or number away from the wrong kind.

[R.G.]

(just because it's semi-fresh in my memory:)
iirc, the Geofex article recommends the NEC EA2-5SNJ. personally, i've had success twice with the Panasonic TQ2-L-5V.
others i've dug up in a search are the Fujitsu AL-5-W-K and the TE Connectivity FX2-D3243.
i can vouch for the Panasonic one, and i'm 99% sure the others are what you're looking for, but read the datasheets carefully, because often the product codes can be just 1 letter or number away from the wrong kind.

Good advice. Read datasheets - CAREFULLY!

At the time the article was written, the NEC was the best of the lot (IMHO) from Mouser. There are others available now that are good alternatives, as well.

[Satan Of Saturn]

Today I built the 4011/4053 circuit shown on

http://members.shaw.ca/roma/switching.html

Did that on vero... unfortunately its not working. Using 220KOhm instead of 200KOhm as I dont have them right now and using a 6V 300mA adapter. I think that should work coz both the ICs work well with 5VDC but unlucky me, its my first DIY 
Used an SPST Push-On-Push-Off switch, 1uF 63V electro-cap, CD4053, HEF4011BP. Checked every connection 5 times... everything looks dine still not working 

[Satan Of Saturn]

*fine

[Digital Larry]

One thing about using CD405x for analog switching.  If they are powered from 0 to 9 volts and you send an AC signal through them, the lower portion (anything of the signal that goes below 0 volts) will get clipped off.  This doesn't expalin "doesn't work at all" though.

[Quackzed]

i'd measure the voltage at the 4011 or 4013? clock input with the button on and then off, see if the on voltage its over 6ish v i think or 7v... and off voltage is lower than @3v...
check to see if the 4013 is flopping next. measure like above at the 4013s clock out, see if it goes high then low when you hit the button.


read this it tells the ins and outs of 4053 switching for guitar...
http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/cd4053/cd4053.htm

[Satan Of Saturn]

Sorry...now that works... the problem was with the Voltage input... though 6V should have worked but it didn't.... I connected with a battery and BINGO!!! IT WORKS...
Now the only problem is, the SPST switch. Its working like a touch screen stuff... a light pressure on the switch is turning it on and off... thats bugging me... coz full pressure isn't changing the state... should I tru some other valued capacitor/resistance?

[Satan Of Saturn]

Do anyone have noise issue with this circuit? Or I made it on Vero thats y getting some noise?

[Quackzed]

thats switch 'bounce' take a look here  http://www.thetonegod.com/tech/switches/switches.html
at the 'switch interface wiring' and the  'toggle with inverter gates' schem, i'd set up the switch like at the input of that-just up to the inverter- , at the top of the page theres an explanation of why...

[Quackzed]

as far as noise, you can bias all the fx send and returns to 1/2 voltage (4.5v for a 9v source) this keeps the audio away from the power rails and keeps pops down as well as noise... heres a link to a thread with a similar circuit and some similar problems...

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=63536.0