Simple remote Loop Switch

[duck_arse]

so you're stealing power from the gt8 for this? being digital, it will be creating ALL SORTS of awful hash, and it won't care much about how dirty its 14V is. the relay driving bit doesn't care much about dirty supply, and the relay will produce some hash of its own when it switches off.

the regulator will clean nearly all the junk for the 9V. the rat will thank you. but the extra caps will help keep some of the gt8 junk in the gt8, instead of the newly minted 9V. they can't hurt.

[Minty]

Not entirely sur I followed this one correctly, what say you?

[duck_arse]

C5 as connected will block DC, that is, nothing will get past it. wire it (+) to 14V, and (-) to 0V. it will then be in parallel with C3, and you're cooking with gas. hopefully.

[Minty]

Like this?

[duck_arse]

I'd say, yes, like that.

[Minty]

Ok, just wait a couple of days for the 220r and the 47uf to arrive and I can start.

Is there any well practiced method I should think about when "mapping" this out on the matrix board?

[duck_arse]

well, if you have 180R or 270R you can sub, or if 22uF or 33uF or 68uF or 100uF .... if you can't wait. if they are on the way, doesn't matter.

matrix board? great! I only so far use vero, so I can't help.

really, I start from the left, input, work to the right, output. it makes sense to me to have the positive supply rails topp-er, and the grounds bottom-er. most of the time, all this goes out the window, whatever fits where w/ least # of cuts and links. there is 3 ways to work the laying out, pencil and squared paper, the perfboard and a stack of parts poking in, and diylayout creator, seen elswhere hereabouts.

keep in mind the layout of your enclosure, jack placements and controls. try and keep your leads straight up and down, don't stretch electro legs across 6 traks f'instance. sit resistors flat on the board, bend their leads to fit across 4 or 5 holes, keep all yr parts north-south or east-west (no slanty, no 2 leads one hole). or come up with your own layout rules to suit yr mood.

and it is easier to wire a board iff all the off-board connections run from one edge. not often possible, but something to work towards. post your 3rd or 4th try, we'll have a look.

[Minty]

Thanks for the heads up on the DIY creator.

I did this with it - look good?

I didn't run the 'wire' around the common grounds on the guitar signal, but they're there.

[Minty]

Simple question, but having a hard time finding an answer:

Is the relay coil directional? (does it have a polarity?)

[duck_arse]

a relay coil is just wire, it won't usually have polarity. some relays have a squelch/flyback/clamp diode internally connected across the coil to squash the off-switching collapsing-current back EMF spike. (D2 is your external diode performing this function.) your datasheet will clearly show a polarity if it HAS the diode fitted, otherwise it's open slather.

your datasheet.

[Minty]

Ok then - the last item (47 uf cap) should be delivered today, so I'm good to go.

Sadly, I can't attempt this until Sunday.

[duck_arse]

minty - try as I might, I couldn't see any error on your "matches diagram v0.8". (I was only guessing those version numbers, by the way.) so, nothing to stop you now ......

[Minty]

Brilliant!

I promise, I'll update the drawings with version numbers so that anyone (including myself) can follow this thread.

Manufacture of the unit this weekend.

Will report back asap.

[duck_arse]

ahhh, the debugging thread, something to look forward to.

good luck. oh, and nice work colour-coding those jacks on the layout.

[Minty]

Google image search, no credit for me there.

[Minty]

Well......DISASTER?

Turns out that the GT8 power supply is....AC, and on a meter is giving 16.8v

Where to go from here?

[duck_arse]

disaster averted, if you've read the AC before plugging it into the DC wanting parts. now you are looking for a rectifier and filter circuit, and we redo some parts o' yr last.

I hope your meter is set to AC volts. when the GT8 is attached, it will load down the supply some and the voltage will dip.

[Minty]

Yip, I decided to test the voltage/polarity of the supply prior to starting the project. It was at that point I found 0VDC. A little head scratching later I checked the label again, it said AC14V.

bugger!

Switched the meter to AC and there it was 16.8 half fat.

I'm going to build this and use a straight 9v supply for now, so - no power regulator and no 220r resistor - ALTHOUGH, once proven, I will seek to add this rectifier/filter you speak of and feed it with AC14V (or, AC16.8V as the case may be.)

[Minty]

I've connected the power part of the circuit as per the below diagram (no guitar signal circuit yet).

The relay engages without closing the GT8 amp control switch. That is, it's 'always on'.

Any ideas?

[duck_arse]

well now, if the GT8 is meant to short the "amp control" line to ground, short your amp control line to ground, without the gt8 in-plugged, and see if the relay clacks. follow from the base of the transistor, see what DC it connects to. it needs V+ to the base to turn the relay on. I've meant to ask how the gt8 control controls, does it just short across those contacts?

I'da thort there is 3-ish ways to go from here:

add a mains (hi volts) transformer (lo volts) and rect (now DC) and filter (now clean) in your box. we are NOT doing this for a first project.

add the rect and filter in the box, steal (low volts) AC from gt8. ..... hmmmmm ......

or, find any DC! plug pack from 12V to 18V, and feed the box dc, as we'd originally figured.

how much lern'n and build'n do you wanna do?