Taking nut off foot switch (for more height) bad practise?

[Mark Hammer]

I'm still trying to figure out what appeal footswitches would have for female dogs.  Are they scent-marked or something?

[armdnrdy]

I'm still trying to figure out what appeal footswitches would have for female dogs.  Are they scent-marked or something?

Yes.
Lawrence sprays each switch with this:



It works as an excellent lubricant! 

[MrStab]

maybe it's in the "foot" - i once heard that the odour between a human's toes resembles that of a female dog in heat. maybe the female dogs in question are just progressive like that.

[armdnrdy]

maybe it's in the "foot" - i once heard that the odour between a human's toes resembles that of a female dog in heat.

I'm not sure about that...I've never seen a dog try to hump someone's toes....maybe a human's leg odor resembles that of a female dog in heat! 

[LucifersTrip]

I am of the view that it is not how far out the switch shaft and collet stick out, but rather the likelihood that the switch will be depressed in a perfect downward piston fashion.

remember that even if your foot depresses it perfectly downward, there is still some "rocking" after your foot is down...unless of course you
life it in a a perfectly upward motion

[Mark Hammer]

Absolutely.  The main thing is: DON'T USE THE STOMPSWITCH LIKE A FOOT-OPERATED JOYSTICK! 

One of these days, I want to figure out a way to use one of those actuator mechanisms that Steve Daniels sells with more than one PCB-mounted micro-switch.  I have a whole bunch of these things, but they only come in DPDT form.  Producing a soft-touch switch that changes more than two poles at once will require one plunger to push two switches.

[Ice-9]

Absolutely.  The main thing is: DON'T USE THE STOMPSWITCH LIKE A FOOT-OPERATED JOYSTICK! 

One of these days, I want to figure out a way to use one of those actuator mechanisms that Steve Daniels sells with more than one PCB-mounted micro-switch.  I have a whole bunch of these things, but they only come in DPDT form.  Producing a soft-touch switch that changes more than two poles at once will require one plunger to push two switches.

I wish I could find those switches in the UK, been looking for something like this for a while.

[MrStab]

I'm not sure about that...I've never seen a dog try to hump someone's toes....maybe a human's leg odor resembles that of a female dog in heat! 

it was one line from a documentary i watched over 10 years ago, so probably completely wrong. i was always under the impression that dogs humped my leg because they just find me so damn sexy.

i've been reading up on things like RG's pancake, DIY actuator etc., but as the very need for this thread suggests, i'm not too great with machining-type things so would rather go for something pre-existing. my pedal comrade and I were gonna go the buffered bypass route, which would've freed up a lot more options, but we actually did a little survey a while back and people overwhelmingly freaked out at the prospect of non-true-bypass. *sigh*...
there's always relays, but the closeness of their poles didn't fare well given the gain involved. but i digress.

[Jdansti]

Absolutely.  The main thing is: DON'T USE THE STOMPSWITCH LIKE A FOOT-OPERATED JOYSTICK! 

One of these days, I want to figure out a way to use one of those actuator mechanisms that Steve Daniels sells with more than one PCB-mounted micro-switch.  I have a whole bunch of these things, but they only come in DPDT form.  Producing a soft-touch switch that changes more than two poles at once will require one plunger to push two switches.

Haveyouseenhim has a tutorial about this. I couldn't find it, but it's on the forum somewhere.

[deadastronaut]

ahh found him, here ya go, our very own mike (haveyouseenhim) demonstrates his diy footswitch..

and just for a laugh..mike blows me back into space..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fHeY3HjN2mo

[Tall Steve]

here's a pic, FWIW - i used a tiny bit of red plastic to prevent shorts while testing:

It seems like everything might fit with the board turned component-side down.  Since most of your wires are running in the same direction, you might be able to mount it to the baseplate so that the pedal opens up like a book.

[Arcane Analog]

If you are worried about repairs, securing that board should be a priority.

If you are stuck on the PCB and enclosure size, ditch the battery, move the switch and the DC jack further down and secure the PCB properly.

here's a pic, FWIW - i used a tiny bit of red plastic to prevent shorts while testing:

[armdnrdy]

If you are stuck on the PCB and enclosure size, ditch the battery

#1

This is a prime example why I do not include the provisions for battery power in my builds.

It's 2014, we have good wall adapters available at a modest price, and commercially available pedal boards come with on board power.

Not to mention all of the power sources available, MXR DC-Brick, One spot, etc.



Batteries just take up way too much room! IMHO.

[MrStab]

how i'd love to put my switch there not a single one of my personal-use builds contains a battery - i despise them with a passion (why pay for power when you can steal a venue's?! ). but these aren't for me, and sadly a lot of people i know seem to love inconvenience and hate the environment. tsk.

everything does fit, but as you guys are hinting at, the reliability may not be great yet. i've since secured insulating sheets of plastic under each board (w/ nylon bolts), the baseplate is insulated, and i've hot-glued offboard wiring. the 3 units i have seem to be passing the "throw around and shake the s*** out of em" test, and one survived my bassist at a fairly-important show last Friday, but there's still some trial & error to go. the enclosure i'm using is fairly deep when all the component size compromises are considered, so it's largely down to durability now.

securing the board upside-down, a' la Boss was considered - and still may be - but the signal path is calculated to keep the input section away from the rest as much as possible, so i'll need to bear that in mind. i'll try it out. i figure Boss can rely on their boards being wedged-in because their components are facing upwards. mine don't move around at all, but my mind's still not at ease.

cheers, guys - your concerns are useful to hear about

p.s: i could maybe move the footswitch to the bottom-right or something, and have the battery next to it, but that'd look asymmetrical and i get enough of that in the mirror every morning. lol

[armdnrdy]

Very funny Grant! 

I would hand them the effect.....and hand them a 9 volt battery and say, "I'm done....you want a battery....you figure It out!

[MrStab]

"Take this and GTFO!"

[MrStab]

hey, wait a goddamn minute... maybe some kinda bracket would do the job nicely. either plastic or insulated with nuts or something, ofc.
*googles*

[davent]

Looks to be a B/BB depth of enclosure- shallow, so why not a deeper enclosure?( or has that already been suggested?)

[MrStab]

it's a competitor enclosure based on the 1590S, i believe. a few millimetres different here or there. a lot of deliberation went into finding one that was deep enough but not too big, plus the board was designed round that size, so i'm just gonna try a bracket for board mounting once i get more low-profile switches. it's a case of balancing out all these different factors & preferences, i suppose.

[armdnrdy]

Grant,

Are you looking to attach the board to the top of the enclosure?