this looks totally useful... and CHEAP!!

[J0K3RX]

The wall-wart tests out at 11.2V (which I found very strange). Do you think it might damage the tester if I plug in 11.2V instead of a 9V battery ?

EDIT : I also thought of putting a 7809 regulator on the DC in ... that would probably be safer...

.   It sounds like the wall wart is not regulate. Probably will drop down to 9v when it has a load...  Easily corrected without modifying the tester.

[Hemmel]

It sounds like the wall wart is not regulate. Probably will drop down to 9v when it has a load...  Easily corrected without modifying the tester.

Ok I'll try it. I didn't want to modify the tester, I was planning to solder the 7809 on the DC plug inside the plastic enclosure. But then maybe that would've been too hot ? 2V dissipation....
I dunno... maybe I should test this out but I wanted to ask before melting any expensive stuff (like the tester).

[J0K3RX]

Ok I'll try it. I didn't want to modify the tester, I was planning to solder the 7809 on the DC plug inside the plastic enclosure. But then maybe that would've been too hot ? 2V dissipation....
I dunno... maybe I should test this out but I wanted to ask before melting any expensive stuff (like the tester).

Maybe just make a small external box to plug the adapter into then into the tester..?
http://www.dxing.info/equipment/wall_warts_bryant.dx

[italianguy63]

If anybody cares.. the more expensive version comes with a small jack and a cable dongle..... (I ended up purchasing both kinds to compare).  I am planning on keeping the one in the case and selling the other one once I find a little time to compare/test them.

MC

[PRR]

I have lots of similar toys where a 9V batt lasts "forever". My Fluke lasted 6 years on the last battery. I have a sound level meter which has had the same battery for a decade.

Stuff like this: low-low power and short use times, a battery is more practical.

That wall-wart cord will always be snagged on something.

[Ripdivot]

Received my tester the other day and for the most part it works good. The leakage function works but I haven't compared the results to RG's method. When testing LEDs or diodes there is a minor glitch depending on which way you insert the component.

Here is the result with an LED:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ij2a3xbcd1ldqht/test%201.jpeg?dl=0

And when I flip the LED around:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fkq9m0b52zew7t6/test%202.jpeg?dl=0

Now back to the first way but this time with light shining on the LED. I'm not sure what the "Ir" means other than maybe infra red leakage?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/xk9rpvy6och6yxl/test%203.jpeg?dl=0

And now with the LED flipped the other way:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/sxaszuv0oyy5lzc/test%204.jpeg?dl=0

Notice it only shows the diode orientation with the LED inserted one way but not the other.

One last thing, how do I upload an attachment from my hard drive without having to post a link? Most forums seem to have a function called "upload attachment". I've used image shack in the past but there must be an easier way?

[Hemmel]

Stuff like this: low-low power and short use times, a battery is more practical.

That wall-wart cord will always be snagged on something.

Perhaps. The tester will stay put 99.8% of the time. I'll try with the battery for a while.

Another thing is : the momentary switch isn't soldered on. It's simply "gripped".
Is there a reason or is this an oversight that I can correct easily by soldering the connections ?

[duck_arse]

One last thing, how do I upload an attachment from my hard drive without having to post a link? Most forums seem to have a function called "upload attachment". I've used image shack in the past but there must be an easier way?

you have to post a link.

I too used to use imageshack, but since they went "script", they can get stuffed. now it's imgur, all the way. no need for an account, just copy the link they provide, then paste in yr message. as far as dropbox and the like, I usually follow the link, but close the page before anything shows, it's just too slow to use here.

"Ir" would be reverse current, surely, and therefore leakage?

[Ripdivot]

One last thing, how do I upload an attachment from my hard drive without having to post a link? Most forums seem to have a function called "upload attachment". I've used image shack in the past but there must be an easier way?

you have to post a link.

I too used to use imageshack, but since they went "script", they can get stuffed. now it's imgur, all the way. no need for an account, just copy the link they provide, then paste in yr message. as far as dropbox and the like, I usually follow the link, but close the page before anything shows, it's just too slow to use here.

"Ir" would be reverse current, surely, and therefore leakage?

Thanks, tried a test using imgur and it works fantastic.

[electrip]

"Ir" is reverse current (like leakage).
If you connect a voltmeter to the diode in with light shining you could even measure some voltage.

I couldn't reproduce the messed up diode symbol with my tester and a bunch of different LEDs.

electrip

Received my tester the other day and for the most part it works good. The leakage function works but I haven't compared the results to RG's method. When testing LEDs or diodes there is a minor glitch depending on which way you insert the component.

Here is the result with an LED:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ij2a3xbcd1ldqht/test%201.jpeg?dl=0

And when I flip the LED around:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fkq9m0b52zew7t6/test%202.jpeg?dl=0

Now back to the first way but this time with light shining on the LED. I'm not sure what the "Ir" means other than maybe infra red leakage?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/xk9rpvy6och6yxl/test%203.jpeg?dl=0

And now with the LED flipped the other way:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/sxaszuv0oyy5lzc/test%204.jpeg?dl=0

Notice it only shows the diode orientation with the LED inserted one way but not the other.

One last thing, how do I upload an attachment from my hard drive without having to post a link? Most forums seem to have a function called "upload attachment". I've used image shack in the past but there must be an easier way?

[lmorse]

I have contacted a couple of the sellers on ebay to see if their version tests for GE transistor leakage. So far I have had a reply from the below who apologised and said their unit does NOT test leakage:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=301121031278&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:AU:1123

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=191269851156&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:AU:1123

I'll post if I hear back from any more.

[Buzz]

Well mine is just about to earn it's outlay. I keep ( kept ) all my box caps in a big fishing tackle kind of box. You know the ones. One big lid and a lot of compartments.

I managed to knock it over on the weekend.

It's quicker to test them on this unit than it is to read the numbers. Glad I have it... making a big job small for an old bugger with crap vision.

Cool.

[lmorse]

I have just received  mail back saying that these DO test ge leakage:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=201094479210&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:AU:1123
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390846793588&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:AU:1123

[lmorse]

I just got my tester through, I am impressed with how solid it feels. I have a bit of a noob question:

Testing a germanium transistor, I get the following:

Battery 8.7v
ICE0 = .20mA
ICEs = .01mA
B = 89
Uf = 133mV

Now my understanding is that the gain is hfe 89, does this take into account the leakage or should I perform more calculations to work out true gain?

[dadler]

Thanks to the OP and others for the find. This device is incredibly useful. My Fluke 287 now seems to rarely come out of the case when working on effects!

I went with the version in the enclosure from this link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Transistor-Tester-Diode-Triode-Capacitance-ESR-resistance-Meter-MOS-PNP-NPN-/141296318232?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20e5eab718 (as posted by Ripdivot -- thanks dude!)

However, mine came damaged in shipping with the micro banana plugs on the ZIF socket all bent, and one irreparably snapped/sheared off. I contacted the seller and we are working things out.

Anyways, due to the obvious fragility of the micro banana plugs, their low build quality, and poor interoperability with my beloved Fluke accessories, I decided to swap the micro banana jacks for standard shrouded banana jacks.

A walk to the corner electronics store and a couple hours of work yielded the following. I am quite happy with the device now, and I can use all of my Fluke probes, mini/micrograbbers, etc. I did have to slightly relocate what seems to be a power filtering cap, as it was in the way of the much larger shrouded jacks.









More pictures: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/3otqlk4ahhaok62/AADU8PccUQGgPb_9pGdoLp0Ta?dl=0

Apologies for the massive pics. I really did scale them down. I guess iPhones take huge pictures these days.

[vigilante397]

@dadler: That is remarkably cool.

[leito79]

sorry about the necrothread, but I want to get an MK-168. Do all Mk-168´s measure Ge leakage?

[electrip]

sorry about the necrothread, but I want to get an MK-168. Do all Mk-168´s measure Ge leakage?

I had to re-read my own postings.
I looked up recent ebay auctions and all MK-168 (small display, case with small banana plugs)
are coming with '2013 latest M328 version of the software ,more functions.',
so I would expect this version is able to measure leakage.
No guarantee!

I did not follow further developments of the software,
or did tests on newer incarnations of the component tester.
There are some handy packages out now but at moment I do not need another one.

At last my shameless plug for the Atlas DCA Pro - Model DCA75.
Only drawback is you need a Microsoft OS for the graphics, no LINUX support.

electrip

P.S.:
http://www.ebay.de/itm/MK-328-TR-LCR-ESR-Tester-Transistor-Inductance-Capacitance-Resistance-ESR-Meter-/201444131690
At least in the photo gallery transistor measurements are shown with ICE0 and ICEs (0.00/0.00ma Uf=672mV obviously silicon)
P.S.S.:
There are cheaper offers, look for MK-328 in this design, leakage is even in the description mentioned.

[leito79]

Thanks electrip for your answer! I´ve noticed that now Tayda offers a caseless one with the big display and ZIF socket for 12 bucks, I´ll ask their CS if those can measure Ge leakage and if they use the ATMega328...

[dbp512]

Thanks electrip for your answer! I´ve noticed that now Tayda offers a caseless one with the big display and ZIF socket for 12 bucks, I´ll ask their CS if those can measure Ge leakage and if they use the ATMega328...

Let us know what you find out. It looks too handy to not have, and I buy from tayda as regularly as the moon phases