First build. Multi effect PCB module footswitch connection

[sethyrish]

Hi
I want to built a single board with eight individual power supplies and up to eight effect modules.
Is the way I've connected the foot switch correct for bypass?
I'd like to make sure it's ok before I try a double sided PCB etch.
Are there any problems with doing it this way.

Also, with a PT2399 delay board, is it possible to use a capacitor and resistor on the v+ in so when the unit is turned off it provides "tails",
or would the dropping voltage cause the sound to distort.

http://members.iinet.net.au/~tinasime/fuzzybee.jpg

Any help appreciated

Cheers

[bluebunny]

Welcome aboard!

Also, with a PT2399 delay board, is it possible to use a capacitor and resistor on the v+ in so when the unit is turned off it provides "tails",
or would the dropping voltage cause the sound to distort.

There is no "turned off", only "bypassed".  (I sound like bloody Yoda...)  The PT is always powered up, so your idea wouldn't work.  However, there are PT-based delays that have tails.  Check out Echo Base and Small Time in this forum.

BTW, not sure about your board (I don't read double-sided too well, this early in the morning).  But the 390R resistor is gonna give you a very bright LED!  Wear shades...   

[sethyrish]

Oh, OK.
The way I had it connected it cuts power the same time it redirects input directly to output.
Is this posible or will it introduce switch popping or have some other negative effect.

http://members.iinet.net.au/~tinasime/Hamlet-delay.jpg

[bluebunny]

Don't cut power when you bypass.  You'll be waiting for caps to charge, etc. before you hear anything when you bring it back to life.  Stomping on a pedal mid-song and getting a moment of silence (and perhaps, aural crud) does nothing to enhance your image when in front of an audience!   

[sethyrish]

Thanks

Back to the drawning board then!

[R.G.]

OK, let's see. This is your first build, according to the title of the thread. For this, you have selected an EIGHT-effect integrated pedalboard with isolated and switch-coordinated power supplies, and you want to do this first effort on a double-sided PCB.

What could possibly go wrong here?

Are you familiar with the phrase "trying to run before you can walk" ?

I strongly recommend getting some experience first, unless you're already so experienced and confident about designing and building PCBs that there is no risk of getting it wrong, and you have already breadboarded all of the effects, power supplies, and bypass switching first and already know that this all works electrically in all respects before going for a PCB.

[blackieNYC]

That's a heck of a 3rd post!
Eight individual power supplies?  Sounds like you could save a little effort there.

[sethyrish]

Hi Rg
It's my first pedal board but I've made a few stereo amplifiers, a valve amplifier, speaker crossovers and other bits and pieces. I've used the toner transfer method a few times but not for dual sided.
I'm using this power supply design which I'm confident I can put together. "http://www.offsetguitars.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=15564&start=720" post 95.
Your right that it should be bread boarded first and I'll do it.
I'm not designing any circuits, just entering schematics into Diptrace and seeing how others have placed components.
Really it's just the power supply and maybe the Fuzzybee to start off with, with enough room for plug in expansion.
I just want a nice "smallish" unit with only three cords attached so I don't mess up my lounge room any more than it already is!
There doesn't seem to be a lot of info on multiple effects in the one enclosure though.

[R.G.]

It's my first pedal board but I've made a few stereo amplifiers, a valve amplifier, speaker crossovers and other bits and pieces.

OK, I understand. We get all levels of experience here, right down to people who don't know which end of a soldering iron to hold. You have the basics down.

I've used the toner transfer method a few times but not for dual sided.

I found that dual sided toner transfer was a PITA. The only way I ever got it to come out usably was to do it once to locate the holes, drill all the holes in the un-etched copper clad, then clean it all up and use the holes as the alignment guide for both sides at the same time, aligning to the pre-drilled holes. You might get away with only drillng two or three of the holes, as there is a lot of cleanup around the lips of the holes if they have burrs.

There doesn't seem to be a lot of info on multiple effects in the one enclosure though.

Yeah, I've seen that before. I have to admit, I'm a little baffled at that. Electronically, there isn't any difference between several effects in one box and several effects in separate boxes, other than there are fewer jacks and cords, those being replaced by internal wiring, and any/all of the power wiring being internal as well. I suppose my reaction to that topic is that there isn't much information needed.

Multiple effects on one enclosure are a bigger mechanical issue, in that there are a lot of controls and such and everything has to fit. They are also not as flexible, in the you had better be certain what effects you want in there and in which order. You pay a lot in flexibility for the smallness.

As a final note, why do you think you need many isolated supplies? Isolated supplies can be good in cases where the effects are really picky about their power supply or have a habit of interfering with other effects on the same supply, but it is unusual for more than one supply to be needed, and rare for more than two, excluding only the power-hungry digital delay pedals with their own 9VAc power supply.

[sethyrish]

Thanks for your advice.
I didn't think the multi power supply would be that more effort than a single although it's a bit more in cost. They're available commercially and quite a few have DIY'ed. So not having a great deal of practice knowledge, I just decided it must be the way to go. The design also seems compact and on a PCB making easy to mount in enclosure. All the modules will be 130 mm tall and as wide as they need to be to fit knobs. I'll probably get some aluminium box section for the case.
Hopefully the dual sided PCB toner transfer will turn out ok, or I'll have to do more wiring.

I'll let you know if it works out.