Vero to PCB - Need a check over... will this work?

[Hav]

Hi guys,

As I say in the title, obviously i'm still a noob, learning bit etc, want to know if this layout I have done will work? Original Layout (top half of image) by Mark at Tagboard...

And if there are any amazing people out there, could anyone route where 9v, ground, in and out actually travel through this diagram? I haven't quite worked it out?! (only if I have the diagram correct).

I think I have to mirror this if I was going to print it..

Thanks! :-)

[davent]

In the SHO's i've built the Zener diode is from gate to source, never seen it set up gate to ground. I don't see any issues with your transfer but you'll want to add a (square) pad for the +ve lead of the 47uF power supply cap and convention says any other polarized parts will have square pads to denote the positive lead.

Also the big horseshoe shaped trace, you can eliminate the whole top piece and move the vertical element over to under the first 10M resistor so it connects that resistor to the lower horizontal trace, just neatens things up eliminating the unnecessarily long trace.

[Hav]

Ah! Thanks for the advice..

Like this?



Also, how could I add copper fill to this? Just in the massive gaps?

Thanks!

[davent]

Yes, like that!

You could also change the diode cathode pad to a square pad which is how the ExpressPCB software i use denotes diodes not sure how other software shows this.

As for ground pours, that'll be determined by whatever software you're messing with.

[CodeMonk]

Ah! Thanks for the advice..

Like this?



Also, how could I add copper fill to this? Just in the massive gaps?

Thanks!

If you are using DIYLC, have a look at this post:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=44838.msg905324#msg905324

[PRR]

Instead of stretching the leads of the 100K and other parts, you can take note that hand-taped (or Eagled) PCB can have north-south runs, so you get the pad right AT the end of the part, and don't have long part-leads vibrating on bad roads.



> add copper fill to this?

If someone else will etch the boards, do not bother to fill. This is not a large critical radio/digital system, you don't need fill.

DIY etching, it IS thrifty to limit the amount of copper you must cut, extend the life of your etchant. In that case, for this board, I would extend "Ground" everywhere except the traces you need. Leave a generous (1/8") gap between ground pour and other traces.... an un-etched whisker will spoil your day, and copper-etch isn't that precious.

[Hav]

Thanks PRR that makes sense too. I am etching myself, have gotten quite good after a good few practices. Thanks for the tips!

[duck_arse]

hav - if the original vero has a connection error (and we hear about unworkable vero layouts all the time here), a pcb copied from will also have a connection error. at some stage you'll have to start working from schematics themselves. (then we can copy your layouts ....)

[Hav]

hav - if the original vero has a connection error (and we hear about unworkable vero layouts all the time here), a pcb copied from will also have a connection error. at some stage you'll have to start working from schematics themselves. (then we can copy your layouts ....)

I do understand this is a risk of simply converting vero to pcb. Although they are mostly 'verified' over at tagboardeffects, I would assume they have been tested by someone and confirmed to work.

I am learning how to read schematics at the moment, looking all over youtube etc. For someone with absolutly NO background in this stuff its a little confusing, but I know its just a learning curve. Biggest problem i see is actually laying these things out even if you can read the schematic. Suppose this is why im looking at vero layouts (they already have layouts for the schems!)

If there are any awesome simple reading that I can do which you know of, please do let me know. I'm just googling the stuff at the moment, but I have a feeling there is a definitive book out there or something!

[davent]

R.G Keen has a book on the ins and outs of taking a schematic to pcb layout.

http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/Detail?no=679

And some basics on schemtic reading (and pedalcentric site).

http://www.beavisaudio.com/techpages/SchematicToReality/

[PRR]

> learning how to read schematics

You don't need a full understanding of schematics to check a layout.

Both are "maps". Lodi connects to Patterson. Camden connects to Maple Shade. The A Train connects Inwood and Rockaway.

Maps can be drawn different ways. Topo/ordinance maps are exact scale renderings of the surface layout. Subway maps are often distorted for better clarity (the A Train runs a big zig-zag but the maps in the stations may show a straight line). River Road may be all twists/turns but a straight line tells you where it goes to/from.

Schematics show function. Layouts show physical parts. In some circuits, one big simple part may be 5% of the schematic but 50% of the layout. The rest of the layout has to be twisted around the big part.

Your circuit is not that complicated. "Input" connects to "100nF top" and "1Meg bottom" (and nothing else). "Q2 bottom" (emitter??) connects to "G3". There's only six "nodes"; you could just eyeball the schematic against the layout. (When it gets bigger it is helpful to have a "netlist" and check-off each node.)