Triple Wreck Wiring

[zander1555]

Just a few questions for you guys on a triple wreck I'm building:
1) I want to use this wiring layout:
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J3EhMIZQLck/UH6a8ZnzSFI/AAAAAAAADHE/ewTfTXuvTYA/s1600/!Offboard+Wiring+with+switchable+pre-effect+booster.png
However, the triple wreck already has provisions for LED+ within the circuit. How should this be accounted for?

2) How does the 9v supply switch the pedal on using this traditional true bypass circuit? How should I be wiring my 9v supply in order to make sure that 9v is supplied only when the pedal is switched on?

3) Should I be using a mono or stereo jack? I'm planning on using a power supply and not even wiring up a battery clip.

Any answers would be much appreciated, I've been scratching my head and scouring the forums for answers to this and I can't seem to find any answers. Thanks!

[antonis]

2) How does the 9v supply switch the pedal on using this traditional true bypass circuit? How should I be wiring my 9v supply in order to make sure that 9v is supplied only when the pedal is switched on?

You better don't do it...
(there is a lot of info for this inside the forum..)

1) the triple wreck already has provisions for LED+ within the circuit. How should this be accounted for?

It depents if there is allready the LED's series resistor in the circuit..
(if so, you can ommit the resistor from the switch

3) Should I be using a mono or stereo jack? I'm planning on using a power supply and not even wiring up a battery clip.

A stereo jack will power ON-OFF the circuit when you plug-unplug the input...
If you have an ON-OFF switch for the power supply, you can use a mono jack..

[duck_arse]

if you're not fitting an internal battery, you rely on external power. when you go home at night, do you leave your pedals connected to the supply, and the supply to the wall outlet, and the outlet switched on, or do you unplug something and close the case?

unplug the supply from the wall, and all your battery-less pedals switch off. simple, done!

mono jack is all you need if no battery. don't attempt switching power with the bypass switch, it is only for audio in/out, and switching the led, if you must. the stereo jack's ring connection shorts to the sleeve connection when a mono plug inserts, completing the battery neg circuit via the audio ground.

[zander1555]

Thanks for the answers. I was a little ambiguous late last night but I think I understand what's going on. I should have posted the layout I am using:
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WOpR9IiJm9g/UHovHg1BltI/AAAAAAAADD0/-ZY-Xiy69qM/s1600/Wampler+Triple+Wreck.png

The LED+ from either board should be able to go straight to the LEDs as there is a 2k2 resistor right before the LED+ on the board. If I am correct, the 3PDT switch sends both completes the 9v and LED circuit while also putting the effect in series with the incoming signal. I was having trouble visualizing how the circuit was completed but I think I understand now.

[chi_boy]

Not to go off topic, but you may want to look into building the Wreck with the booster after the main board.  Many people feel that the pre boost isn't really affective.  It changes the sound some, but isn't that exciting.    A SHO type boost at the end is really nice because it acts as a volume boost.   More bang for the buck.   

If you have the opportunity try auditioning both ways. 

Cheers,
George

[antonis]

If I am correct, the 3PDT switch sends both completes the 9v and LED circuit while also putting the effect in series with the incoming signal. I was having trouble visualizing how the circuit was completed but I think I understand now.

I'm not sure about what you've undestood because you have 2 3PDT switches - 1 complete bypassing the signal and 1 for bypassing the boost effect (with respective LEDs for status indication)

None of them have any influense to the +9V..

[zander1555]

If I am correct, the 3PDT switch sends both completes the 9v and LED circuit while also putting the effect in series with the incoming signal. I was having trouble visualizing how the circuit was completed but I think I understand now.

I'm not sure about what you've undestood because you have 2 3PDT switches - 1 complete bypassing the signal and 1 for bypassing the boost effect (with respective LEDs for status indication)

None of them have any influense to the +9V..

I see then, so the LED is only connected to ground when the 3PDT is in the on position?

[antonis]

I see then, so the LED is only connected to ground when the 3PDT is in the on position?

Absolutely true and correct..!!

[duck_arse]

IF more people would draw the circuit, LESS people would have problems with things like switching on layouts. I look that layout and see no switches at all. and I see no circuit diagram either. the mechanical will follow the electrical ......

I'm not picking on you, zander, but there has been a lot of questions of this nature of late, and the answers become apparent with a complete electrical schematic.

[antonis]

IF more people would draw the circuit,

Propably you mean "the already drawn circuit"...

[deadastronaut]

  A SHO type boost at the end is really nice because it acts as a volume boost.   More bang for the buck.   

If you have the opportunity try auditioning both ways. 

Cheers,
George

hi george, funny i was about to bb the triple wreck, and use an alternative 'boost' ....i'll try that.

(waiting on a 7 string lefty to be delivered, so getting prepared   )

cheers man.

as you were...

[zander1555]

IF more people would draw the circuit, LESS people would have problems with things like switching on layouts. I look that layout and see no switches at all. and I see no circuit diagram either. the mechanical will follow the electrical ......

I'm not picking on you, zander, but there has been a lot of questions of this nature of late, and the answers become apparent with a complete electrical schematic.

You're right. I should have drawn it all out. Once I was able to see the flow of the circuit it made a lot more sense.

As for an SHO boost, would anyone recommend a master volume pot?