Staple Diet

[Kipper4]

Has anyone tried using stationary Staples as jumpers?
I know it's a bit of a random question but hey........

[anotherjim]

The stationary ones can't jump.

I'll get my coat then...

[italianguy63]

What if you bought your staples from Staples or some other stationary store?   

[Kipper4]

Staples from Naples?

[Kipper4]

Practical report.
Just tried it on perf waster.
It works guys

I need more coffee.

[bloxstompboxes]

I wanted to ask this question myself before, just out of curiosity, but never did. How's the spacing?

[Kipper4]

Almost perfect

[bloxstompboxes]

I use .3in spacing I think on my resistors and diodes. Is that about right?

[Kipper4]

6 holes on perf but easily adaptable with pliers.
Normally my resistors are 4 holes

[bloxstompboxes]

Lol, I'll probably stick to using pieces trimmed off other components. Might be quick fix on something for myself some day if nothing else is close at hand though.

[Les Paul Lover]

Have you used coloured staples too?

I'm sure the colour HAS to improve the tone tenfold.

[duck_arse]

for a clean boost, use surgical staples. for singing tones, use the staple singers.

where are the coats again?

[Kipper4]

Have you used coloured staples too?

I'm sure the colour HAS to improve the tone tenfold.

Mojo Staples = cool beans
thanks


Do the Staple Singer provide Harmonies?
TAXI !!!!!!!!

[deafbutpicky]

^just when you step on more than one

btw, this thread needs to be tagged... (ducks and covers)

[R.G.]

On a more realistic note, sure, any metal wire works as a jumper, but real staples are also prone to breakage, and they will rapidly dull your clippers in trimming them to length.

I prefer the eco-friendly approach of reusing trimmed-off resistor leads, formed in this:


like this:


It - um - works pretty well on making neatly formed resistors, too, if that matters. 

[Kipper4]

Thanks RG
That's going on the christmas list along with a 500g spool of solder wire.
Happy Thanks giving.

[PRR]

> Staple Diet

Don't eat staples. You have to pay a doctor to get them out.

I doubt they are readily solderable. Most steel needs heavy scuffing and different flux to take solder WELL. (If the solder doesn't take well, your repair costs will overwhelm any possible time savings.)

I know I can, with my regular tools, snip and U-bend a resistor leg about as fast as I could pry one staple off the stick. It might be a bit faster with a spool of bus-wire, bench-mount snips, and the tool shown above. I can't think of any project where jumper-bending was the big hold-up.

[anotherjim]

Yeh, you could be holding the soldering iron on the joint all day - Staples meant for upholstery fastening are usually steel. But there are solder friendly ones.

You can DIY a stepped bending jig from a triangle of perfboard. Leave the holes on the cut edges at a little under half diameter and you have graduated pitches from thick end t' thin. That can even put bends at correct distances for diagonal fits.

But that plastic one RG shows look more comfortable to work with.

Now, if you want to recreate an Apple II on veroboard, you'd need about 4096 links.

[R.G.]

At one point a couple of years ago I got into a situation where I had to install hundreds of resistors and even my red-triangle bender was tedious.

I took a break and made up a gang-bender, somewhat along the lines AJ just mentioned, but made it instead for quick processing.

Actually, there were two "benders". Each was a block of wood, nominally a 2x4, which in the USA has shrunk to 1.5" (37mm) by 3.5" (90mm). I cut them to be the proper widths. One was the width of a 1/4w resistor plus leads on both sides with the leads extended to the proper length for trimming after insertion, but not yet bent.  The other was the width needed to properly bend the leads to 0.4" (which is my standard for lead spacing on all my PCBs unless there is a crying need to do otherwise).

Both had a 0.3" channel cut in the center along the length.

Processing resistors was then reduced to laying a strip of - I think about 40 was my max - resistor with the body in the center channel to line them up, and placing a strip of masking tape down the row of bodies to hold them in place. Then, holding them in place with a finger, the trimmer block served as a guide to a set of sheet metal shears that gang-cut the leads to length on each side of the block. After that, the masking tape let me transfer the lot to the bender block where the leads stuck out on each side and a cut off end of 2x4 could be used to gang-fold the leads down on each side, holding the bodies in the center channel with a finger.

The wood working was a break from the tedium, and the rest of the resistor processing was FAST. And now I have these neato blocks. Well, if I haven't reused them for the drill press as a pad.   

[anotherjim]

Professional Benders.
http://www.olamefusa.com/e_axial.htm#TP6/V-A
The hand held one at the bottom - I remember them, I knew some pcb assembly workers who had to use them all the day long.

DIY Bender