hard wire true bypass?? help

Started by scstowaway, January 28, 2015, 08:53:33 PM

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scstowaway

ok, in reply to jd, yes, what u added to my photo was exactly how i had it, thats what was trying to get across. I then tried your jumper suggestions, no luck there.  but keeping in the spirit of things, i continued jumping, all over the place.  then decided to try the second output, and bam!  only it was only a wet signal.  but it was hope, so i pushed on.  then i tried jumping the 2 outputs hots.  i was on to something.  in the end, everything was hooked up right since pb's help, only thing missing was a jumper between the 2nd outputs hot and the second outputs "mystery post"  thank you all for your wisdom and generosity to share that wisdom, and for seeing through my awful lingo and artwork.  now, about this 3pdt stomp switch, i hate it.  but id like to keep the existing led.  a toggle perhaps?

PBE6

Glad everything worked out! That is a sweet looking build.

You can find 3PDT toggle switches on eBay for less than $2 with free shipping, one of those would be an easy direct replacement option.

Jdansti

Glad you got it going!

Regarding the switch, you could figure out which row of outer switch contacts need to be connected to the center common contacts. Then remove the switch and install jumpers to hardwire those connections.  After that, install any kind of switch you wish for the bypass switch as shown in my earlier drawing.
  • SUPPORTER
R.G. Keene: EXPECT there to be errors, and defeat them...

scstowaway

JD, can u explain that in a little more detail?

mth5044


Jdansti

#25
Quote from: scstowaway on February 15, 2015, 07:39:30 PM
JD, can u explain that in a little more detail?

Sure. Every time you hit the foot switch, you alternate between connections A and B as shown below.



Figure out whether position A or B routes the signal through the effect using your meter. Carefully remove the switch and then solder jumpers across the pads (A or B) to hard wire the board to always be "on". After that, route the signal from your guitar controls through an offboard switch (3PDT if you want an LED indicator). The new switch either routes the signal to your effect or directly to the guitar's output jack as shown below.



Edit: I corrected the first drawing which mistakenly had the input ring associated with the output jack. I'm not 100% sure if my drawing works as-is with nothing connected to the ring pad on the PCB.
  • SUPPORTER
R.G. Keene: EXPECT there to be errors, and defeat them...

scstowaway

Ok, i see what your saying.  Im assuming that that would raise an issue with the existing led? seeing as its hardwired into the upper chip where the controls are.  and since the hole is already drilled, I'm wondering if that might be too much of a hassle.  Kinda wish id thought of that earlier, wiring the pedal always on and making a switch to go from pedal or straight to guitar jack is a great idea.  definitely gonna keep that in mind.  I just got my new 3pdt toggle switch in the mail today, guess ill just do a swap out.  I appreciate you takin the time to help me out Jd.  And thank you MTH, I'm happy with it...  got a duncan classic '57 for the bridge, sounds pretty nice too!

Jdansti

  • SUPPORTER
R.G. Keene: EXPECT there to be errors, and defeat them...

scstowaway

I put up a short vid on youtube in case you guys wanted to hear the finished product.  Ill attempt to attach a link, if it doesn't work, i guess just search youtube for homemade telecaster with built in effect.

deadastronaut

#29
^scott, post your link between the youtube brackets

e,g select youtube button from above.. :)

found it.. ;)

https://www.youtube.com/user/100roberthenry
https://deadastronaut.wixsite.com/effects

chasm reverb/tremshifter/faze filter/abductor II delay/timestream reverb/dreamtime delay/skinwalker hi gain dist/black triangle OD/ nano drums/space patrol fuzz//

scstowaway

ha ha, i know , even with the little button i still screwed it up, thanks DA