Modded my SD-1. Now TB pedals after it pop when engaging/disengaging

[peglegpete]

I did the Monte Allums GT mod and my pedal sounds great except for the above problem. I have been through my work over and over and can't find a flub. The thing is I didn't use this pedal much before the mod so it could have had this problem prior to. I've emailed Monte and he cannot duplicate my issue. Can any of you suggest a solution? I'm hoping you will put it to me in novice terms like, try replacing c10 or d8 etc.. I can look at the board and find those. I can put other boss pedals in place of my sd-1 and there are no pops. It is something in my sd-1.
Edit: I just read the What to do if it doesn't work thread. I will post more info about the mod asap.

[GibsonGM]

Plug a cord in the input and output, so the effect will turn on.  Take a DC measurement between the tip and sleeve of your output cable plug (not plugged into anything else, of course).   Turn the pedal on and off, see if you get a DC measurement (bet you do).

And, can you post a schematic of the SD-1, and the mods you did to it? 

[peglegpete]

Here's what I found on the stock schematic. http://www.hobby-hour.com/electronics/s/sd1-super-overdrive.php
Mods are:
Original                Mod
C6                       Removed
C1 .047                .22uf cap
C2 .018                .22uf cap
R16 1k-ohm          100 ohm res
R17  100 ohm         10k-ohm res
C10 1uf cap            10uf cap
C7 1uf cap              1uf cap (better quality)
R6 4.7                   2.2k res/gain switch
D6 1n4148           2n3440 Transistor
D5 1n4148           Symmetrical gain switch

Mine is an older pedal with the aca 12 volt resistor and diode. I've tried it with these removed and put back in with the same results.
I took the measurement like you said and it reads .39 v. My other boss pedal reads zero.
Thanks for helping me GibsonGM

[roseblood11]

Check the parts at the output, especially C10. If it's intact, it should block dc voltage...

[Keppy]

DC on the output is most likely a leaky output cap. That cap may be bad. Also, R17 should tie the output to DC ground, so make sure it's attached correctly.

[GibsonGM]

DC on the output is most likely a leaky output cap. That cap may be bad. Also, R17 should tie the output to DC ground, so make sure it's attached correctly.

This ^^    If the cap is in place, oriented correctly with no solder bridges or shorts, and you're reading .39V, then replace the cap (means it's bad).

A good test for ALL your stuff is to look for that DC voltage at the output, which tells you it's not being blocked, of course.....POP...could also happen with the INPUT of something like a transistor circuit, if the input cap was bad and allowed DC bias voltage to float between input and the circuit that comes before it.

[peglegpete]

Thanks so much for the help!! I made a mistake and put two caps in backwards, swapped them around now no more popping. 

[GibsonGM]

Awesome! Now you know what to look for next time this may happen