Adding a Compressor circuit to a TS overdrive?

[Mr. Lime]

Alright, thanks!

I corrected the schematic above.
Looking at the comtrols, every knob is useful in the compression mode, but the attack control is unemployed in TS mode.
What about using a double gang pot and connect the additional pot to the 1N4148 diodes or something similar?
..for example the AMZ warp control?

Would be cool if every knob has something to do in every mode..
The Analogman KOT is using a resistor in series with the soft clipping diodes too.
But the 250k pot seems rather high for such a application.

Any suggestions for it?

[Mr. Lime]

Here's my idea for the 250k pot in TS mode:


The 15k resistors parallel with the pot gives it a new range of ~ 27k which should be useful with the silicon diodes in series, right?

[Transmogrifox]

That configuration gives you essentially a resistance range of 14k to 27k.  One of those 15k should be a short circuit to get 0 ohms to 14k.   Note the useful range will be within the first 1/6th turn of the pot.  After 1/6th to 100% will not have much effect.

Probably worse with this circuit since the gain-setting resistor is 22 ohms.  Probably the 250k pot will have zero useful range.  You will either turn it to 0 or turn it a little -- after that there will be no difference between an infinitesimal change and 100% change in the pot setting.  It will be a binary 0 or 15k (or 27k whatever you put in parallel).

MIght be more useful to put this into the tonestack clipping diodes.

[Mr. Lime]

Couldn't I just take a 250k dual gang pot and a 10k dual gang pot and change the bottom pots?

It's just an idea, I would be glad to get other suggestions too.
A bass boost or something would also be alright..

I'm looking for something that's just in the TS mode active..
Thanks

[Transmogrifox]

Yeah, a dual gang pot hybridized would be a way to do it. 

[Mr. Lime]

If I receive help, I always want to give something back and here it is:



Not sure about the transistor directions.
According to the schematic, I labeled the component numbers so it should be easy to modify.
Offboard diode switching allows you to experiment with different clippers, just keep the red LEDs as they are.
Make sure you wire the On-On-On Switch exactly like it's drawn.
I recommand building yourself a dual gang pot with 250k and 10k (for Attack and Clipping) if you want only 5 knobs on your pedal.

Thanks to Transmogrifox for his great help and thanks to Jack Orman's site where I got the AMZ warp control and the AMZ presence control from.

[duck_arse]

boy, that's quite something. I can see a few things. your circuit J1 appears on the board as Q1, and your circuit Q1 appears on the board as Q2. Q1 on your board is, I'm pretty sure (datasheet!) backwards. the Q2 is oriented correctly.

with your 10k clipping pot: you could connect its wiper to C8, and one end to the leds, the other to the D8//D10 (and drop the switch? it's not clear on yr diagram if the "Mode" switch is commoned to the clipping pot switch or not.) then you can warp between leds and the string.

[Mr. Lime]

Thanks, I corrected the layout above.

IMO it's better leaving the clipping pot on the silicon diodes because you need the LEDs as they are in the compression mode and I would'not want to deal the pot everytine when I want to change the mode..

[duck_arse]

Q1 still backwards. refer:

http://pdf.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheet/nationalsemiconductor/DS013065.PDF

[Mr. Lime]

Now it should be fine, finally..

[duck_arse]

mmm, apologies. I've been looking at that Q1, trying to make sense from just one lead. now I look closer, it seems to be layed source-gate-drain, like a K30A (and in that case, either direction would be correct). there will need to be a bit of shuffling of switch wires and resistors in that area to suit a gate-channel-channel type like 2N5485, or you could just change the spec to 2SK30A- O or Y.

[Mr. Lime]

You are right, thank you very much.
Now Q1 should work as supposed to do.

I hate layouts with transistors cause I always fail at placing them..  
It's everytime a pain in the ass rewire them correctly.


I also changed C8 and C10 to electrolyt capicators just like they are in the love squeeze.
Note that Jumper that shares a hole with the other one next to leg 4.

It will take me some time to get the parts together to verifie my layout but I'll try to solder it as soon as possible.

Here's the layout:

[duck_arse]

looks good, good luck.

if I may: I hate 2 wires to a hole, and long stretch caps. me, I would move the link at d8 across to d6, and the link at a6 across to a8 - j8. the j6 - k6 is hole per wire, and j8 moves down 1 to k8. as for C12, well, let's just look away.

[Mr. Lime]

I know, it's not the most elegant layout, sure it could be smaller too.
I only had a practical offboard wiring in mind when I created the layout.


Maybe I'll do another one because of esthetic..

[duck_arse]

I've recently switched from standing resistors and blizzards of flying links, to more elegant, better esthetic, all-flat 5 holes per (ok, some 4 hole, at a real pinch) resistor layouts, with flat links, and it's not much fun. then I add a size restriction, 10 holes in one direction.

I'd swear there must be 8 different ways to turn a resistor .......