Recommendation for lead free soldering station

[effectsbay]

Hello All

I recently switched to lead free solder. Total nightmare, but after trying different lead-free solders and temps, I finally got a flow that I like.. and can deal with. The problem now.. my tips are getting eaten up at a crazy pace. I tin the tip every time I put the iron down, and I'm probably getting 7 days of life on a tip ... before corrosion works it's way down to the tip. I think it may be due to the higher temps, and the this particular station is having a hard time. Any suggestions for a soldering station? I'm currently using a Velleman VTSSC40N which has been great. Nice little digital soldering station, but I think it's time for an upgrade.

The solder that I've been using is the Kester K100LD 66/48 .031". Works great with new tips

Thanks!
hank

[DiscoVlad]

I use a Hakko FX888D with either Hakko T18-24D or T18-3C tips for lead free. Works great, and the genuine tips last much longer than the knockoffs.

[effectsbay]

What is the tip life? Also, do you do a lot of soldering hours with that machine? And.. what temp are you running?

Thanks!
hank

[guitarpedalparts]

Can you describe more how the tip is getting destroyed (will the tip no longer heat and take solder)? Are these the same tips and iron you were using with leaded solder?

If you're using higher temps it could possibly affect tip life. Sometimes I've found tips need a good scraping with the edge of some wire cutters to get off the flux that's been burned into the tip.

[DiscoVlad]

I've had it at just over a year and haven't had to replace a tip yet.

It came with a standard conical tip that I've never used, as from experience while they can be used for just about every soldering task they're really not very good at any of them. The C (hoof) and D (chisel) point tips are much better as they have one or more flat surfaces that help transfer heat better, and there's a bit more material in the tip which gives them a better heat capacity - i.e. it doesn't cool down as much when you touch it to the workpiece, so you don't need to run them as hot.

It's my main work soldering iron and gets at least an hour of use a day, usually at 350ºC though if it's a board with large pads, or connecting bulky leads to an inverter transformer I'll go up to 400 for a few minutes. With the larger (i.e. better heat capacity) tips you can get away with running it at 300ºC for most work.

For cleaning I use either the sponge that came with it, or brass wool. Anything harder runs the risk of removing the plating from the tip which will then get eaten away by the solder.

[effectsbay]

I've had it at just over a year and haven't had to replace a tip yet.

It came with a standard conical tip that I've never used, as from experience while they can be used for just about every soldering task they're really not very good at any of them. The C (hoof) and D (chisel) point tips are much better as they have one or more flat surfaces that help transfer heat better, and there's a bit more material in the tip which gives them a better heat capacity - i.e. it doesn't cool down as much when you touch it to the workpiece, so you don't need to run them as hot.

It's my main work soldering iron and gets at least an hour of use a day, usually at 350ºC though if it's a board with large pads, or connecting bulky leads to an inverter transformer I'll go up to 400 for a few minutes. With the larger (i.e. better heat capacity) tips you can get away with running it at 300ºC for most work.

For cleaning I use either the sponge that came with it, or brass wool. Anything harder runs the risk of removing the plating from the tip which will then get eaten away by the solder.

Thanks.. I see that you can solder at lower temps with the heat recovery on those tips for lead free. For me.. I usually run 360 C for leaded and 390 C for lead free.. so much hotter.

[effectsbay]

Can you describe more how the tip is getting destroyed (will the tip no longer heat and take solder)? Are these the same tips and iron you were using with leaded solder?

If you're using higher temps it could possibly affect tip life. Sometimes I've found tips need a good scraping with the edge of some wire cutters to get off the flux that's been burned into the tip.

Sure. I use these tips: http://www.velleman.eu/products/view/?id=349690

You can see the tinned portion of that tip. Goes from the very tip to about .20". Throughout the day, the very tip will stay tinned, but the portion going to the thicker portion  will slowly blacken and work it's way towards the tip. The soldering tip maintains the shape, but becomes dark. The dark portions do not melt the lead free solder. I'm assuming this is corrosion. When the tip is useless.. the very very tip is the only thing that melts the solder.

hank

[guitarpedalparts]

Can you describe more how the tip is getting destroyed (will the tip no longer heat and take solder)? Are these the same tips and iron you were using with leaded solder?

If you're using higher temps it could possibly affect tip life. Sometimes I've found tips need a good scraping with the edge of some wire cutters to get off the flux that's been burned into the tip.

Sure. I use these tips: http://www.velleman.eu/products/view/?id=349690

You can see the tinned portion of that tip. Goes from the very tip to about .20". Throughout the day, the very tip will stay tinned, but the portion going to the thicker portion  will slowly blacken and work it's way towards the tip. The soldering tip maintains the shape, but becomes dark. The dark portions do not melt the lead free solder. I'm assuming this is corrosion. When the tip is useless.. the very very tip is the only thing that melts the solder.

hank

How are you cleaning the tips? I have this happen regularly with leaded solder if I don't clean the tip enough. You might also look into a higher wattage station that's marked as a "lead free" station. When you're soldering larger pads or using lead free solder, the temperature is not as important as the power rating of the station. When the tip heats up an object (solder, pins, pads, etc.) it loses heat as it's transferred to the part. The wattage of the soldering station determines how fast it can recover that lost heat. With a higher power station, you can then keep the temperature at a lower level because it recovers lost heat faster. If you don't have the power, you need to bump up the temperature so the lost heat doesn't cause your temp to drop below what you need to flow the solder. Then you can risk damaging parts or wearing things out quicker. I use 70W lead free stations and they'll go from 0 to 350C in just a few seconds. Power. 

[effectsbay]

How are you cleaning the tips? I have this happen regularly with leaded solder if I don't clean the tip enough. You might also look into a higher wattage station that's marked as a "lead free" station. When you're soldering larger pads or using lead free solder, the temperature is not as important as the power rating of the station. When the tip heats up an object (solder, pins, pads, etc.) it loses heat as it's transferred to the part. The wattage of the soldering station determines how fast it can recover that lost heat. With a higher power station, you can then keep the temperature at a lower level because it recovers lost heat faster. If you don't have the power, you need to bump up the temperature so the lost heat doesn't cause your temp to drop below what you need to flow the solder. Then you can risk damaging parts or wearing things out quicker. I use 70W lead free stations and they'll go from 0 to 350C in just a few seconds. Power. 

I clean the tips with the brass wire sponge: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41Dqxa5jlXL.jpg. No water, no files, etc.

Looks like mine is a 48W. What station are you using?

Thanks!
hank

[italianguy63]

I just replaced my station at Xmas... 

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=109282.0

I went with the Hakko FX888D.  Great choice.

MC

[guitarpedalparts]

How are you cleaning the tips? I have this happen regularly with leaded solder if I don't clean the tip enough. You might also look into a higher wattage station that's marked as a "lead free" station. When you're soldering larger pads or using lead free solder, the temperature is not as important as the power rating of the station. When the tip heats up an object (solder, pins, pads, etc.) it loses heat as it's transferred to the part. The wattage of the soldering station determines how fast it can recover that lost heat. With a higher power station, you can then keep the temperature at a lower level because it recovers lost heat faster. If you don't have the power, you need to bump up the temperature so the lost heat doesn't cause your temp to drop below what you need to flow the solder. Then you can risk damaging parts or wearing things out quicker. I use 70W lead free stations and they'll go from 0 to 350C in just a few seconds. Power. 

I clean the tips with the brass wire sponge: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41Dqxa5jlXL.jpg. No water, no files, etc.

Looks like mine is a 48W. What station are you using?

Thanks!
hank

These are a steal: http://www.circuitspecialists.com/csi-2901-lead-free-soldering-station.html

I have a slightly older version. I've got several of their stations, worked really well for years. They've got tons of different stations and tips, find one that fits what you need.

[greaser_au]

These tips are almost certainly iron plated -  If you (very lightly)  scrape the black corrosion off with a sharp blade you will be able to (quickly!) tin the area.

Make sure you regularly tin  the whole working area of the tip with solder across the working day.  If you are not using the iron for 10 minutes and at the end of the working day before you turn it off, heavily tin the working area of the tip leaving the blob where it is.

Look for a pot of 'tip tinner' like this if you continue to have a problem.

(just a few suggestions from my time  in the factory...   )

david

[effectsbay]

These are a steal: http://www.circuitspecialists.com/csi-2901-lead-free-soldering-station.html

I have a slightly older version. I've got several of their stations, worked really well for years. They've got tons of different stations and tips, find one that fits what you need.

What's the tip life on those?

[effectsbay]

I just replaced my station at Xmas... 

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=109282.0

I went with the Hakko FX888D.  Great choice.

MC

I keep seeing this as a great station. My question, what is the tip life with lead free?

[effectsbay]

Well.. I just ordered the Hakko FX888D. We'll see how she does.

Thanks for all of the suggestions!

hank

[DiscoVlad]

Excellent, it's a great iron. You'll want to check out the videos here: http://www.hakko.com/english/product_videos/video_search.php?k2=HAKKO+FX-888D to turn preset temps and ºC/ºF display to your preference because the manual is somewhat inscrutable.

[italianguy63]

I expect it will be great (tip life).  It is really a quality piece.  I have been using mine for about 4 months now and just love it.  When I bought it I ordered extra tips, just in case... I have zero wear on my tip so far.

[Johan]

Why not just go back to 60/40? ..As long as they sell it, I'll be using it. ..

[DiscoVlad]

A few reasons:

• In my job I have to use lead free, because the manufacturer of the products I'm employed to service does; mixing leaded and lead free solder isn't good since there are *complex metallurgical reasons why you shouldn't* (it makes the joints more susceptible to cracking mainly).
• Lead-free may be the only thing available locally.
• One day leaded solder probably won't be available so may as well get the practice in before you absolutely have to switch.
• If you're selling your pedals there may be statutes that require to use lead free.