Wedgies Anyone? A 1590B tutorial

[Ice-9]

Just a thought, but if you can dremel out the wedge shape , then leave the top uncut it may be possible to use some heat and then bent the top down to form the shape. this would leave a more secure top. Great idea for a different enclosure cozybuilder.

I haven't tried it but I think you'd end up with the top part ending short of the front edge - the angled distance is longer than the original length.

GEOMETRY, BITCHES!

Yeah ! of course, good call.

[deadastronaut]

i think the UK equivalent is 'chemical metal''

i used it years ago to attach a screwdriver to a trem on a lefty pieceofcrapocaster just to have a trem 

and it worked for years...good stuff.


http://www.autosessive.com/products/60165/plastic-padding-chemical-metal-mini-tube-85g?gclid=CPrJ3P3w48QCFSWWtAod_HYAsQ

[tubegeek]

i think the UK equivalent is 'chemical metal''

I thought that was a musical genre based on the blood of virgins and crystal meth?

[duck_arse]

[cobbers] I was surprised to see JB Weld in jaycar today, but I don't shop there if I can help it, so there was plenny other surprises too. [/cobbers]



(I wonder how the browsers would render that tag .....)

[bluebunny]

(I wonder how the browsers would render that tag .....)

My brain-voice read your post in a broad Strine accent, prefixed with "strewth, mate!", and compelled me to reach for a tinnie.

[Cozybuilder]

Thought I'd post a couple of teaser shots of an upcoming build with this enclosure. One of the things I like about it is being able to run all the connections out the back- you can cram a few more on a pedal board that way.

[canman]

That's amazing!!  Not something I'd ever be able to pull off, but holy smokes that's rad.  I may need to start putting my jacks out the back, that seems to free up a fair bit of space (assuming you don't put your circuit boards on the backs of the pots, which I tend to do regularly).

[davent]

Really developing into a killer concept, looking great! I'm going to give it a go, how wide was the front edge of the wedge you removed?
Thanks!
dave

[~arph]

Wow! You are a cozy builder. Very nice

[Cozybuilder]

Thanks Dave. I took out 0.35", so measure down 0.45" from the face- the top will give you back that 0.10". The line across the top is at 2.15" from the end. If you have a band saw, I'd suggest cutting the 0.1" first, then the angle. Also, if you are going to use jacks in the back, I'd suggest drilling them before the wedge cut- its a royal pain to clamp the angled edge in the drill press. I you go with my layout, the I/O jacks are 0.32" down from the opening, and 0.61" from the side. The 9V is exact center, and down 0.35". Good luck.

Thank you Arph.

I think this build will be done in about a week, will post pix then.

[amptramp]

With the method you have shown here, does the removed section still have low resistance to the rest of the enclosure?  If not, you may want to add a grounding wire to the floating section of the chassis.

[Cozybuilder]

Excellent question. I just measured, and mine reads about 125 ohms- YMMV. In light of this, I'm going to solder a wire to a washer and place that between the stompswitch and plate, and attach to ground.

[davent]

Made the chop but not yet glued back together.

No bandsaw so used a hacksaw (easier for me to control then the Dremel) and took the top off as a wedge then used a bench mounted belt sander to flatten the wedge into a flat plate.

For layout ended up dropping layout lines down the sides at the crosscut point, then connecting side cut layout line to those 1/8" down from the top. That worked well for leaving the full thickness of the top plus the saw kerf.










dave

[WhiskeyMadeMeDoIt]

Looking good Dave!  I have been thinking about this and discussed it with Russ.  Cut the wedge out and leave the top intact. Light score the back of the top part where it would bevel over and bend into place and solder/braze the box back together. I know it will leave a gap at the end but it could be filled with the solder/braze and then sanded back to shape. That would leave it all electrically connected and leave the top etchable.  It would also make the boxes able to be powder coated without much fuss. Seems like I may have to buy some of these rods and test it out. 
http://www.amazon.com/Harbor-Freight-Tools-Alumiweld-Aluminum/dp/B006ZBASPU

[Cozybuilder]

Impressive work Dave, your cuts look a lot better than mine did   I look forward to seeing how it turns out.

[vigilante397]

Impressive work Dave

Agreed 

your cuts look a lot better than mine did 

I've gotten used to the fact that Dave's everything looks a lot better than mine

[tubegeek]

I am not a very good metalworker but I read a lot of hot rod magazines. So take this with a grain of salt.

From davent's pictures, it looks like it's a fairly small gap that needs to close.

The aluminum is thick enough that it might be possible to use a ball peen hammer (from the inside to keep the hammer marks from being quite so ugly) and stretch the area of the bend, so that the top "flap" stretches down until it matches the end. Maybe some heat would help with this. If it cracks, well, we were going to cut it otherwise, no loss there.

Thoughts?

[davent]

Glued mine up last night and cleaned it up today.

Checking for continuity between the two pieces, after zeroing for the probes the meter settles out at 0.1, 0.2ohms between the two sections,  pretty good!

I put a piece of aluminum duct tape across the back of the top cross joint before filling the gap to prevent the epoxy oozing down into the box and i've had continuity through the glue of that tape before so not sure whether the tape is the pathway or i have metal on metal contact somewhere along the seam, in any case, this one tests as a unit.

dave

^ I'm no metal worker either so no idea how feasable the hammering would be, depend on the composition of the box and how malleable that material is.

edit

[Cozybuilder]

That is looking great Dave!

Mine is in color, the graphic is designed, and I just finished the wiring layout for the circuit. A couple of more days- its going to be bright!

[Saint Louis Toneworks]

very freaking cool